Blown 302 in a 95 seaswirl 201 lx - new long block coming

[vasy]

So got a new to me boat with unknown history.
The current engine is starting and running but with light knocking, I can see two temporary freezer plugs as well as one plug 1/4 way pushed out.
I changed oil and at first about 2 litters of clear water leaked out followed by a light grey/brown foamy mixture of oil and water, maybe 12 - 14 litters total.





I put some new (used) oil, flushed it.
Changed oil filter and put more clean (used) oil and took it out for a test run. Boat ran fine all the way to about 4200 rpm but after 20 minutes or so the
oil pressure started to jump all over the place and some engine knock could be heard, so the block is shot but the boat ran 45 mph and performed well.

Decided not to find out what is the exact problem and ordered a new long block with heads from Rapido.
Rapido said that the block will come with the 351 cam and a flat top pistons.

The new block is suppose to arrive Friday or Tuesday and will be installing it after.
I'll do my best to document what we can during the process. This will be our first boat swap, prior to this my friend did the complete rebuild in his car only.

Mod Edit Hey vasy - Iboats sells long blocks too, not cool to link to a competitor.

 

[Redrig]

Bummer , but at least you will know there is a good engine in the boat .

That engine surely have had some freeze damage with the temp plugs and one that is pushed out.

I would also rip off the exhaust manifolds and inspect them very carefully , you dont want to hydrolock your brand new engine from a cracked exhaust manifold.

You can fill your manifolds with acetone to test them , if they start leaking out acetone ..... start shopping for new ones as well .

 

[Sparkinator]

Let me know if you need the Volvo Penta service manuals for you drive, fuel system and engine. That 95 Cobra is a joint venture drive with Volvo and and the Volvo manuals are invaluable when replacing an engine.

 

[vasy]

I bought this set of OMC manuals online, I hope it was the right stuff, just got the other day in the mail, looks ok.

Edit: vasy, please read the forum rules so this Topic doesn't need to be edited on a regular basis...Thanks, WIMUSKY
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/forum-rules-and-guidelines/407734-forum-rules


What I have a question now:

1) Edit: Solicitation
2) Edit: Solicitation knows the part numbers for gasket between the outdrive and housing and correct bellows? I can't seem to locate correct parts catalog on-line.

3) As this will be my first project, any other parts should be checked or replaced while I'm "down there" ? Like the tip above about the exhaust risers for example.

Let me know if you need the Volvo Penta service manuals for you drive, fuel system and engine. That 95 Cobra is a joint venture drive with Volvo and and the Volvo manuals are invaluable when replacing an engine.

 

[bruceb58]

What is your model number? Just so you know, you can go onto parts sites and look up the Volvo parts as well, including manuals. You likely have something with an MD or an HU in it.

 

[vasy]

No Title

Had some fun on the weekend and moved the outdrive and the engine.
Outdrive model is: 3868156
Engine model is: 502APHUE

Engine came out ok, not many wires to disconnect, just got frozen on one of the engine mounts and had to pry it from it.
We managed to just clear the deck with 0.1 inch of clearance. We used normal car engine removal hoist and had to deflate the trailer tires as well as tilt the front of the trailer as much as we could.
Next step is to pick up the block and to transfer the parts to it from ours.

There was a little bit of water mixed with grease inside the bellow, I guess it is normal?
There does not seem to be a water tight seal around that area. (picture 4)

 

[bruceb58]

That is not normal to have water in there. Replace your u-joint bellows. Use OEM bellows.

 

[vasy]

Ok, I have a part number for that, can replace. I wonder how the water got in, just a little there. Just a seat against the drive?
Also, anyone has any ideas on the part number for the 3 engine belts and the raw water pump rebuild kit. My pump is leaking water when engine is running.

 

[bruceb58]

Could be a crack, could be where the nose of the drive hits that bellows, could also come form the engine side if the water got high enough ever in the bilge.

I assume you talking about the raw water pump. Some people rebuild these but I just replace. They are kinda pricey.
http://www.marineenginedirect.com/volvo-pump-3858847/

 

[vasy]

Ouch, that is expensive for sure.
By that part number I found some rebuild services at around $150 and rebuild kits at $75-$90 but it say you need to have correct tools to replace.
I'll take my pump apart and see how hard it is to rebuild. Seems to be kinda expensive for an impeller and a few bearings.

 

[bruceb58]

The impeller is replaceable. What gets damaged is the bearing and the seals.

 

[vasy]

Spark plug question.
For that engine it seems that getting to the plugs after the risers are installed are a total pita.
Seems it would make sense installing long life plugs. What do you guys think from experience?
I'm thinking of going with wither Autolite XP25 Iridium or NGK IX Iridium Spark Plugs UR4IX #7401

 

[bruceb58]

I wouldn't bother. If you leave the plugs in longer in a marine engine, you may never get them out again.

 

[vasy]

No Title

The new engine arrived. Looks ok externally but every surface is painted. I'll be getting some paint stripper and removing it from the gasket mating surfaces.
Started the disassembly of the old one.
Currently ran into a snag, a fuel line at the carburetor refuses to disconnect, I don't really want to use heat there as I can see gas sipping out and don't want a fire.
Any suggestions? The nut itself looks stripped a bit and my normal wrench slips on it.

 

[Sparkinator]

Get you a flare nut wrench. If it isn't stripped to badly. I got a set pretty cheap a local auto parts store.

 

[skippy2235]

then use vice grips, also make sure going the correct way.

 

[vasy]

No Title

Took the rest of the engine block apart and found the problem cylinder.
What do you guys think most like cause of failure? Cracked cylinder sleeve? engine did have popped freezer plugs.

Can anyone suggest a good way of tensioning v-belts? All info I could find is using a specialized tool, I wonder if there is a less scientific way to do it,

 

[Bondo]

What do you guys think most like cause of failure? Cracked cylinder sleeve? engine did have popped freezer plugs.

Ayuh,.... Cracked block,... Cracked heads,.... Cracked exhaust manifolds,.... Cracked intake manifold,....

It Froze, it's pretty much an anchor now,....

Can anyone suggest a good way of tensioning v-belts?

Ayuh,.... With a Bar against an adjustable appliance,......