blown head gasket. pictures.

[frantically relaxing]

Re: blown head gasket. pictures.

I blew up the top-side pic-

That is one thick hump of carbon there, looks pregnant! And in looking straight down at the right side of the crack, you can see the shine of the original deck surface. I may be wrong, but in my opinion the crack is limited to the carbon hump, and the deck is fine.

Easy enough to find out, get out the file as suggested above and start removing the hump. What do you have to lose, since everyone else thinks you need a whole new motor?

Put down some painters tape on either side of the carbon, that'll help protect the deck--

And I'm thinking (uh-oh) that maybe a copper head gasket would work great once you're done, even if the deck isn't exactly perfect when you're finished...

 

[Bondo]

Re: blown head gasket. pictures.

OK.

So what type of engine makes a good replacement engine? From my understanding, this is a GM engine with marine parts added on. So what engine types, or vehicles should I look for in a junk yard that would have this same type of engine block, or one that is almost a direct fit??

Ayuh,.... That's sorta right, 'n applies to the Chevy V-motors,....

The Chevy I-motors are Not used in automotive app's,...

The automotive I-4s are Very different,...

 

[stonyloam]

Re: blown head gasket. pictures.

Try the draw filing, you don't need the tape for that as you want to surface the whole deck.

 

[sti1471]

Re: blown head gasket. pictures.

What type of file should I get for that? I have 1 but it is kind of course. I know files have different patterns, some have horizontal lines and some have bumps or diamond patters. Should it be the finest file or semi course?

 

[stonyloam]

Re: blown head gasket. pictures.

The guy in the video used a single cut bastard, and a second cut file. Get a file brush to keep it clean.

 

[sti1471]

Re: blown head gasket. pictures.

I went home last night and looked at the deck of the block again. I took out a new razor blade and started to scrape away at the carbon. it seemed to not do anything at first. But when I really put some force into the razor, there was a find black powder on the block and the crack was becoming smaller. There is still a good deal of carbon on the deck so I think Frantically Relaxing was correct. I think the crack is a crack or "valley" in the carbon buildup and not in the deck itself. I will do the file trick tonight for better progress and report back tomorrow.

To check the deck with a feeler gauge, what is that tool called? is it just a "precision flat bar? and how much do they cost? can I get one at lowes or home depot?

 

[sti1471]

Re: blown head gasket. pictures.

OK after watching the draw file video again, a concern came to mind.

On my block, I have 2 metal "pins" that act at the gasket guide. On the video he files from tip to tip. Since I have those pins, my file will stop there and not go to the edge of the block.

Is there a way to remove those pins from the block?

 

[Radarman68]

Re: blown head gasket. pictures.

before you start grinding away anything, get a metal straight edge and lay it across that 'crack', basically top to bottom in your picture. see if the crack is a high spot, or totally flat. If it is a high spot, and the straight edge rocks back and forth on the high spot, you should be able to smooth it out with a fine metal file. if it is flat already, then yep, you need to get the block decked or a new shortblock. you cant eyeball things without the straight edge, as your eyes can play tricks on you.

 

[sti1471]

Re: blown head gasket. pictures.

I used a straight edge last night when I got home and did just that. It is for sure a high spot on the block. it rocked back and forth easily.

 

[Radarman68]

Re: blown head gasket. pictures.

sounds good then. I would just get a fine file and lay it flat and slowly, lightly work on that hump then. lay it flat and put pressure in the middle of the file, not on the ends. Move it diagonally with light pressure over the hump. I think this will clean up pretty easilly. just dont take matieral off of anywhere but the 'hump'. using light centralized pressure, you should be safe.

Sounds like the remains of an old head gasket that did not get cleaned off completely last time the engine was apart.

 

[Bondo]

Re: blown head gasket. pictures.

OK after watching the draw file video again, a concern came to mind.

On my block, I have 2 metal "pins" that act at the gasket guide. On the video he files from tip to tip. Since I have those pins, my file will stop there and not go to the edge of the block.

Is there a way to remove those pins from the block?

Ayuh,.... They're pressed in,... Grab 'em with vise-grips, 'n twist/ pull 'em out,...

 

[peties3]

Re: blown head gasket. pictures.

I am new here but I thought I might be able to add a little to this thread, I would look for a piece of metal that will not flex like a block of steel that has a machine flat surface. Then wrap the or tape on a piece of metal cutting sand paper or emery cloth to it. They are usually one inch wide and come in various grits. then work cross ways with that hump taking care not to disturb the "good" areas untill the hump is gone.
I hope I explained this well enough.
I would really try this before changing motors.
Also, a file will flex enough to not give you a flat surface.
You can get a machine shop to make you a block that has a machine flat surface for very little money.

 

[sti1471]

Re: blown head gasket. pictures.

I went home last night and started to pull out the files. I started draw filing the head surface before the block surface. The head surface has carbon buildup between cyl 2-3 just like the block did. Since I knew I needed to file the head as well, I just started on that first. It is coming along very nice and is starting to look flat and smooth. as I started filing I noticed there were several low spots on the head so I am glad I decided to try this. The carbon build up on the head surface is coming off nice for sure. I know that you cannot mill the block deck too much before causing issues, but is there a certain amount that the head can be resurfaced before it cannot be filed/milled any more? I did not take much off at all judging by the filings on the table, but it felt like I was rubbing it for a long time.

Anyways, I just have a little bit left before it is done and I can move onto the block surface. The block surface won't need much but that carbon hump removed and then it is install time.

Before draw filing


After draw filing.



I will look into the emery cloth idea, that sounds to be pretty good.

 

[stonyloam]

Re: blown head gasket. pictures.

That head is looking pretty good. If the head is flat then you do not have to take off very much. Looks like the area between 2 and 3 needs just a little more. Just so the gasket will seat. Nice job!

 

[RCAnderson]

Re: blown head gasket. pictures.

If this will work, then great !
I will give you a tip on filing though :
don't keep touching the work or the files with you fingers
The oils on your skin will inhibit the cutting action.
Don't forget to keep checking with a straightedge and feeler gauges, or put a light behind the straightedge and look between the edge and whatever you are filing. There will be a flatness tolerance specification in the merc. manual.

 

[sti1471]

Re: blown head gasket. pictures.

How much can you file the head surface before you end up taking too much off? I am just curious if there are marks or lines of the head or some way of showing the maximum amount the head can be machined or filed?

thanks guys, it was actually fun to do this and see such a big improvement.

 

[Bondo]

Re: blown head gasket. pictures.

How much can you file the head surface before you end up taking too much off? I am just curious if there are marks or lines of the head or some way of showing the maximum amount the head can be machined or filed?

thanks guys, it was actually fun to do this and see such a big improvement.

Ayuh,... 'bout .010" before ya start messin' with the compression, 'n valve geometry,...

No witness marks, ya gotta Measure,...

 

[sti1471]

Re: blown head gasket. pictures.

Ayuh,... 'bout .010" before ya start messin' with the compression, 'n valve geometry,...

No witness marks, ya gotta Measure,...

Bond-o,

are you referring to the block surface or the head surface? or both?

I imagine that .010 is about as thick as a piece of paper.

 

[stonyloam]

Re: blown head gasket. pictures.

I imagine that .010 is about as thick as a piece of paper.

A piece of paper is more like 0.003. Some of your gasket marks are still there, so you have not removed much.

 

[sti1471]

Re: blown head gasket. pictures.

Over the weekend I filed down the head and the block surface using the draw file method. I got a straight edge and checked gaps with a feeler gauge. I cannot fit anything over a .002 feeler gauge anywhere along the block. So here are a few questions before it put it back together.

Yesterday I poured seafoam on the pistons to let it loosen the carbon / black buildup on the pistons and rings for good measure. Several hours later the seafoam was still on the pistons, so at least I could tell that the piston rings were tight enough to not allow the seafoam to drain past them.

While the motor is where it is now, is there anything else that is easy / cheap to check for or clean while the engine is torn apart to this level. Is there a way to clean the ring seats without pulling the pistons? is there any part of the 3.0L that usually has issues that is easier to get to/inspect while the head is removed that I could check out?

I bought some loctight to put on the head bolt threads. I saw someone used perfect seal, is loctight good to use on the head bolts, or will it not hold up? I assume the purpose to keep the bolts from loosening over time and or prevent liquid from coming up the threads? from my understanding loctight does just that?

Thanks everyone.