Over the weekend I filed down the head and the block surface using the draw file method. I got a straight edge and checked gaps with a feeler gauge. I cannot fit anything over a .002 feeler gauge anywhere along the block. So here are a few questions before it put it back together.
Yesterday I poured seafoam on the pistons to let it loosen the carbon / black buildup on the pistons and rings for good measure. Several hours later the seafoam was still on the pistons, so at least I could tell that the piston rings were tight enough to not allow the seafoam to drain past them.
While the motor is where it is now, is there anything else that is easy / cheap to check for or clean while the engine is torn apart to this level. Is there a way to clean the ring seats without pulling the pistons? is there any part of the 3.0L that usually has issues that is easier to get to/inspect while the head is removed that I could check out?
I bought some loctight to put on the head bolt threads. I saw someone used perfect seal, is loctight good to use on the head bolts, or will it not hold up? I assume the purpose to keep the bolts from loosening over time and or prevent liquid from coming up the threads? from my understanding loctight does just that?
Thanks everyone.
Can someone post a link to the NAPA permatex. When I search their site there is 5 pages of permatex products sealer products ranging from windshield sealer to gasket maker.
While the motor is where it is now, is there anything else that is easy / cheap to check for or clean while the engine is torn apart to this level. Is there a way to clean the ring seats without pulling the pistons? is there any part of the 3.0L that usually has issues that is easier to get to/inspect while the head is removed that I could check out?
get the job at hand finished, and go boating!
yeah I will get some photos tonight and post them up. Both the head and surface came out shiny. I am excited as hell with the way it came out. Thanks for the link to the sealant. I will have to go get some today or tomorrow and use that instead of my loctight thread sealer. However I noticed it says it handles up to 400F. Does the engine head surface get hotter than 400F? I thought the head surface and surrounding areas of the cylinders got up higher than that like around 700+
I noticed though that the gasket I took off the boat was this super thin metal. the new sierra gasket I bought is a gray gasket that feels like it is made of a soft plastic or something and it is about 4-5 times as thick as the metal one. I assume this is a better choice and it is thicker which will create a better seal. However, will it raise my head height giving lower compression numbers, or will it smash down thin once I torque it down?
Anyone know what these sierra gaskets are made out of?
So I was cleaning the threads to put the head back on. I took a magnet and placed it down the thread holes and the main water passage on the back of the block and I keep pulling up good amounts of rust flakes. The engine had no leaks of water into the oil so I know its not rusted through. Is it normal for it to be rusty that deep into the engine? I pulled a lot out with the magnet and think I got most of it. I think I am going to dump some krud cutter must for rust in there and let it sit for an hour then suck it out with a shop vac. Krud cutter is water based so I don't think it will harm anything. If I contain the krud cutter to the block only, there are no rubber seals down there is there? The only rubber seals are in the out drive.
Any problems with my plan? I am affraid the water passages are getting clogged with flakes hurting water flow.