blue water boats......ve resin ?

oops!

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gotta build a blue water boat.....

the hull is hand laid. !!!....you should see the lay up schedule....wow.....looks like a gazillion layers of .75 csm. then a huge layer of roving.....then a few more csm.

however ......one thing ....the glass is exteremly brittle.....

does anyone know if the newer blue water's ( 07) are...ve resin?....

by the way........i cant post pics.......but this is the toughest repair that i have encountered so far.
any help greatly appreciated if any one has worked on them before.

thanks guys
cheers
oops
 

proshadetree

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Re: blue water boats......ve resin ?

You get to work on the coolest s*()t Wish you could post but I understand:mad:
 

Yacht Dr.

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Re: blue water boats......ve resin ?

Is this boat of a European nature ?..

why cant you post some pics ?..

Use VE IMHO.. ( I like to use VE for basically everything now.. )

YD.
 

oops!

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Re: blue water boats......ve resin ?

You get to work on the coolest s*()t Wish you could post but I understand:mad:

coolest....lol.....really nice boat.....but you should see the damage......i have nicknamed the boat "chomp" because aside form the original damage.....the company that we bought it from did not post a pic of the huge "great white shark" sized "bite" out of the chine area.....its about 2 feet long and 8 inches above the chine and the same into the bottom of the hull.....a perfect bite looking area is just ...gone.

at this point....i have NO PLAN on how to proceed with the repair.

Is this boat of a European nature ?..

why cant you post some pics ?..

Use VE IMHO.. ( I like to use VE for basically everything now.. )

YD.

yd....nope.....kal custom out of california....
as i mentioned....hand laid.....and they didnt spare the glass......wow....the hull is at least 3/4's inch thick at the bow......and in the chine where the bite is .....the glass is over an inch thick !....i really wish i could post pics.

the deal is....the boat struck something so hard that the steering wheel was bent by the driver....

the nose of the hull is pierced in several places....(i ripped the keel guard off today and even the keelguard was torn so bad most of it wasnt there any more.

the impact caused the glass to de laminate from each individual layer of layup !!!!!!!

there is actually a large 8 ft section from the nose to the midships that is "floppy" because it has de lambed away from the inner layer of csm that is against the floatation foam. this section includes the area where the speed strakes join the nose of the boat.

the shards of glass in the open gashes are extremely brittle, to the point that i can pull out a piece of the .75 csm and crumple it in my hand with very little resistance....(as easily as i can crumple the film of poly resin off the side of a bucket used to glass something) !!!!

my delema is that the owner does NOT WANT ME TO PULL THE CAP.....it would be a cake walk if i could.

now......having said all that.....i still dont have a plan for the repair !.:eek:

i could just pump epoxy into the de lamed "void" area and use pressure to "glue" the "floppy" glass back in place.
the problem with this....... is that the boat was sunk and i have no way of cleaning the glass between, insuring a good bond. (gaurenteed its still wet and there will be tons of sand in there.

i was thinking of cutting away the de lamed section (in a full huge chunk)...roughing it up back to raw glass then, basically epoxying it on to the layer of csm that is next to the foam. that will give me the shape back........then....fixing the gashes in a standard manner......then wrapping the whole hull with 2x 1708 stem to stern. then of course doing a full hull gellcoat shoot.

the other way of approaching the repair is just grind off the whole bad section.....and start doing layups till i have built it back up again.....then 2x 1708 over the whole hull and shoot it with gell. ......the problem with this approach is the shape of the nose....matching it with the other side will be a real challenge.

im really sorry about not being able to post pics. and i hope you have been able to follow my explanation, thoughts and jargon.

the reason for the questions of the ve resins .....is a possible bonding issue with poly. (that the owner wants me to use).

any how......i hope you all understood that....lol....
any suggestions as to the possible approach to this repair is appreceated.

thanks all.
cheers
oops
 

oops!

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Re: blue water boats......ve resin ?

oh....by the way....

just thought i would add.....

the guy im doing all these boats for (mostly re keel and full hull gellcoat) does not have a rotisserie unit. that means.....i get to fix these boats from underneath.....on a creeper....glassing the bottom of a boat. (no....fiberglass does not like to be applied to the bottom of a boat from under the boat) :eek: :mad:
 

drewpster

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Re: blue water boats......ve resin ?

I thought VE was between poly and epoxy as far as bond goes. Doesn't it bond better than poly to poly? I also remember it having better water resistance than poly, but not quite as good as epoxy? (we are talking about vinylester...right?
 

jonesg

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Re: blue water boats......ve resin ?

You know the answer, if you can't lift the cap then you have to crawl under the deck.
 

oops!

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Re: blue water boats......ve resin ?

I thought VE was between poly and epoxy as far as bond goes. Doesn't it bond better than poly to poly? I also remember it having better water resistance than poly, but not quite as good as epoxy? (we are talking about vinylester...right?


yep drewp
vynalester or ve resins are better water resistant than standard poly and are stronger....but again less than epoxy. a lot of new boats are using ve resins and i think this blue water is one due to the delamiantion of the glass after submersion in water.
they are a stronger gripping resin.....but im not sure about the poly to poly bond,,,,if the poly is properly prepped....even in a mechanical bond fashion....the bond is really hard to break.

(by the way.....the way the test the bond is really high teck !....they use plyers and try to pull the glass apart and measure the amount of pressure it takes to make the bond fail)

You know the answer, if you can't lift the cap then you have to crawl under the deck.

lol.....funny you should mention that jonsey.....the last bayliner i did had stringer from hull seperation due to impact damage. i had to stick my head in the ski locker....and thru a small port forward of the locker...(a hole about 6 ins high and 18 ins long),,,under the front deck...i had to grind off the gellcoat,,,rough and scuff the glass and re laminate a 1708 wrap as a new stringer tab :eek:....geez that was fun.
 

oops!

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Re: blue water boats......ve resin ?

just to give you guys an update.

i talked to blue water today.

they were really great people. i could tell that they cared for the people that buy there boats. they want me to forward pics of the extreme damage to the company, so blue water can see if there is any way they can improve in the design.
when i told them that the steering wheel was totally bent from the driver girpping the steering wheel at impact....they were totally shocked, as they have placed a metal rod in side the wheel to prevent warpage in high heat.

the boat is a hand laminated hull.....a gazillion layers of .75 csm......built to approx 3/8ths inch thick.....then a layer of 20 oz roving....more csm.....another roving...more csm......then foam.

they use an ortho resin.

the actual hull has de laminated away from the the final interior layer of csm (the layer next to the foam).....this is the hull section that is floppy.
this floppy section of the hull is roughly diamond shaped...6 feet long by 3 feet wide....it is only held in place by areas that did not come in contact with the rock. but the hole section of the hull is toast.

after laying under the boat for 2 hours.....checking this...feeling and hammering on that. the only way to properly do the repair..(without removing the cap)...is to totally remove the damaged section....and re build it.
then totally wrap the exterior of the hull with 2 layers of 1708....an exterior layer of csm....and then gellcoat it.

that means .....i will remove the damaged section of the hull.....right up to where the stringers are bedded to the hull......and where the foam has the shape of the hull.
after i remove this section tommorow.....i will be looking at the bottom of bare stringers.

then.....start a reverse layup process...(i will use 1708) till i get to the thickness of the hull and a close shape of the hull (then rebuild the keel and strake area in the nose) then fair the bare fiberglass....(gawd.....i can feel it itch allready) then gellcoat it....fair it and shoot it with gellcoat a second time.

time line....2 weeks,,, :eek::mad:

all in all.....this boat is really nice....it should bring a good dollar for the client after im done. but i can allready feel my arms hurting from laying on my back with an air powered long board, fairing bare fiberglass for hours and hours.
 

proshadetree

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Re: blue water boats......ve resin ?

Will the engine have to come out? If yes will that allow you to flip the hull? Drain fuel remove drive train and flip would seem to me to be the easiest method. I know one guy who flipped his onto old mattresses. Im just a noob at this but it seems like it would actually be faster.
 

Yacht Dr.

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Re: blue water boats......ve resin ?

There are a few things that kinda worry me..

1. No inside layups ? .. ( Im assuming thats where the full double wrap of 1708 comes in ).

2. Do you plan on removing All of the gelcoat on the hull for your 1708 layups ?

Can you get to at lease some of the repair from the inside ?

YD.
 

oops!

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Re: blue water boats......ve resin ?

arrg....i just typed a long post and it got erased......give me a minit
 

oops!

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Re: blue water boats......ve resin ?

There are a few things that kinda worry me..

LOL......me too ;)

1. No inside layups ? .. ( Im assuming thats where the full double wrap of 1708 comes in ).

2. Do you plan on removing All of the gelcoat on the hull for your 1708 layups ?

Can you get to at lease some of the repair from the inside ?

YD.

no inside layups......cant get under the deck with going to extra expence (carpet...deck wood ect) that the owner is not prepaired to go.

yes...all the gell from everything under the spray rails (chines) MUST come off to glass the double 1708. (the double 1708 is for me....i want that glass there for me to feel safe about doing the repair from the outside and not inside out.)
ever glassed 1708 20 foot sections upside down while resin is dripping in your eyes ?....:eek: :D....lol...this is going to be a fun one

i figure the boat will require two gellcoat full hull shoots....a thin layer of unwaxed to fair the hull....then a standard full shoot.

i have 14 days to complete this job to full polish by myself. the parts for the drive will arrive then thats when the possible transom replacement will happen as the motor/drive/transom assembly must come out for inspection.

pro.....id love to pull the drive and flip the hull......but there is no room.the boat takes up the whole shop...we barley got the boat in the shop...i cannot walk from the bow to stern outside the boat...i have to get on a creeper and go under the boat.
all the work will be done with me laying on my back on a creeper

somebody just shoot me :mad:
 

Yacht Dr.

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Re: blue water boats......ve resin ?

Might want to look into Duratec primer..instead of gelcoat for your fairing coat..sanding is sweet :)

2 weeks..thats a chore :)

Can you use an 8" soft pad for most of the bottom ? ( polisher/sander with 8" disks ). I use this instead of an Airfile when I can ;).

I dont know how your going to remove the gell from the bottom though..

Id get a 3m full face respo..some Good ear muffs..an MP3 player with ear buds under the ear muffs..and rock and roll :) ..

YD.
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
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Re: blue water boats......ve resin ?

Might want to look into Duratec primer..instead of gelcoat for your fairing coat..sanding is sweet :)

2 weeks..thats a chore :)

Can you use an 8" soft pad for most of the bottom ? ( polisher/sander with 8" disks ). I use this instead of an Airfile when I can ;).

I dont know how your going to remove the gell from the bottom though..

Id get a 3m full face respo..some Good ear muffs..an MP3 player with ear buds under the ear muffs..and rock and roll :) ..

YD.

never used duratek primer....i assume there is no bonding problems or under the water issues?....i really appreceate that tip.

i run both air power long boards and an 8 inch soft pad. i still need the air boards to give me flatness over 20 feet.

gell removal is mostly with a 25 grit on a grinder......yep....big chunks of wavy :(

and yes...i also run a full face resporator.....(i just love that thing) it only takes about 20 seconds before i cant see anything and i have to wipe or blow it off.

i also wear a huge beach towel over my head with the ends wrapped around my neck......this is just incase the grinder disk flys apart...(not much protection...i know...but better than nothing)

i like the mp3 idea....i have a radio yelling at me most of the time.....lol

i will be starting the grinding to day as i want the hull down to raw glass and that chunk of hull removed so the glass/foam can start to dry and be ready for glassing on monday.

does anybody see any potential problems with the layup schedule (that double wrap is for the safety factor....and will fully incompass the repair area and beond)?
i dont see any (even though this type of repair IS NOT RECCOMENDED) i would really like other opinions just in case i have missed somthing.

thanks all
 

proshadetree

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Re: blue water boats......ve resin ?

Are you done yet ? Why not? How goes it man. Just wondering if your plan is working out.
 

drewpster

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Re: blue water boats......ve resin ?

Hey oops, ever consider using a full blasting hood to do that grinding? I assume they have enough room for a respirator and would give you complete protection from the itchies.
Its got to be horrible on your back.
just a thought

drewp
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
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Re: blue water boats......ve resin ?

Hey oops, ever consider using a full blasting hood to do that grinding? I assume they have enough room for a respirator and would give you complete protection from the itchies.
Its got to be horrible on your back.
just a thought
drewp

lol.... drewp i dont know if you remember a few years back we were talking about grinding protection.....sgnt major, showed a pick of a full bio suit......well guess what?.
i got one ! :eek: :D. mine is more of a light rain suit....but it is ofically a bio suit. the pants have elastics around the ankles, and the coat is a one piece hoody style.
i wear 11 mil rubber gloves. tapped around the wrists to the suit. over that, i wear a cloth pair of coverals. over the hood, i wear a full beach towel with the ends wrapped around my neck. (this is basic neck protection in case a grinding disc flys apart)
then i wear a full face resporator. the really expencive kind that is also a lexan eye/face mask. fogging is not an issue as the breathing apperatus in side the mask, encapsulates the nose/ mouth like a standard resporator.
the guys at the shop laugh at me when they see me in the full outfit, and they joke that i look like im doing some mad experiments !!! :D

the full outfit is really hot to wear, and the plastic of the bio suit traps water in....so you sweat heavy...especially pressing the grinder against the hull.
but....i am so protected from glass dust. i dont itch......at all !....nothing in the bed,,,no worries about washing my clothes in the girls washing machine !

Are you done yet ? Why not? How goes it man. Just wondering if your plan is working out.

i was going to start another thread on something i made for this repair.......but first of all.....
the boat has taken an extraordinary amount of grinding.
this is due to the hand lamination.
the ortho resin seems to be de laminating in between every layer and is VERY brittle. the hull is approx one inch thick of multliple layers of .75 oz csm.
these layers are delaminating every where.
to properly repair the boat...i have to grind till i get to an area that is not de laminated.
so far the grinding has gone on 20 hours.
i actually pulled a huge chunk of fiberglass off the hull. 1/4 inch thick and 3 feet by 6 feet. this area de laminated from the roving material deeper in the hull.

there are parts of the hull that i can see the stringer bottoms and the foam.

ok......so.....to repair this......i have to re-bed the stringers from the bottom !
i cleaned the area....scuffed the inside of the glass with 80 grit best i could then shot acetone in the area.

this is where i needed a new type of "oops super dooper peanut butter"

so here it is......oops super dooper peanut butter v 5.2 pat pend :D
i catylised one liter of resin at 2% then i slowly mixed in 50% milled fibers/ thickining the resin. then i poured in 550 gr of 1/4 inch chopped fibers. and mixed that into the catylised resin. this gave me a very thick short strand paste....more like a thick putty with a perfect 45% resin to 55% glass ratio.
i smeared this up into the hull on each side of the stringers and down the underside of them.
i also used the putty to fill the void area where there was no glass.
this putty is exactally like the chopped material that comes out of a chopper gun during the manufacturing process of other hulls. (except for the milled fibers to thicken the resin which will make the putty better)
after that was in place i rolled a 1.5 oz mat over the putty...then a 1708 wrap over that (this is strictly in the void area and not over the hull)

this process patched the holes in the hull perfectly.
the heat from cure was huge.....so i opened the shop door to control the temp of the cure......when the glass area was starting to cool a little (coming off the back end of the cure) i heated the area with a propane heater keeping the heat up but not too hot.....just under 200 degrees. this will make the paste and layups very stiff and strong.

oh......i also took aquarium tubing before i put in the putty and placed the end of the tubing in any areas i saw that were void of foam. after the past got hard i injected 120 ccs of 2 part foam thru the aquarium tubing. and removed the tubing. i used a huge syringe to inject the foam

i have more grinding to do today so i can start another marathon glassing of the whole hull now that the holes are repaired.


as far as the peanut butter paste.....that stuff is really strong....i mean really strong....i was whacking it with a big hammer last night...only small pieces from rough edges came off...the core of the stuff was undamaged....im going to whip up some more and make a two foot section 1/3 inch thick (to simulate the thickness of a boat hull.....and test that for stregnth, but i was really impressed by last nights results.
at this point ....the hull is repaired to the point i could float the boat right now.. so the gellcoating phase will begin on saturday.
i think i will have this boat done ahead of schedule.

oh....by the way......the bayliner i just finished (another full re-keel/re gellcoat job) sold yesterday for 15 grand....it was an 05....really pretty boat. it came out great.

ok....gotta go back and grind and glass some more.....ill have more up dates on the putty and post a thread with the testing results....

cheers guys
oops
 
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