Boat leaking

[Watermann]

Thanks for the pics :thumb:

You should be able to see which rivets have been damaged and are leaking. I understand your funds problem believe me. You can do a get by for now repair since that keel isn't really a structural piece of the boat. Get some good quality all aluminum blind rivets, 3/16" shaft size and try using a 3/8" length. Carefully drill out the leaky rivets with a 3/16" drill bit, coat the new blind rivet with your 4200 you have on hand, I would prefer 5200 but it's a get by for now repair so. After setting the new blind rivet, fill the mandrel hole with the 4200 too.

Good luck ferdly!

 

[ferdly1]

Basically I don't know what I am doing that's what you guys are for. And thanks for the info. I was about to make a big mistake by sealing that hole. I wasn't sure if it was a drain hole or just a worn spot in hull. I found a hole to the right of it that I filled with marine tex. Gonna try filling boat again to check for leaks . Last time didn't find any rivets leaking however I didn't give it long enough. The only thing I did see was water coming out that drain hole, So if there is a leak in one of the rivets on the keel strip - I probably will not see it since the water will run into the strip then out the hole.

 

[ferdly1]

Well I did another leak test. Even went into town to give it time to show any leaks. Did not see any leaky rivets. however I still get the leak out of the drain hole. Fairy steady leak . A drop every couple seconds. I do have another question. I did the leak test with boat on my trailer therefore quite a few rivets were covered up.. Can I prop the boat up on a couple 2x4 on the front and back and maybe the middle to see if any rivets are leaking there. Or would this be too much strain on hull not being supported. Oh one more thing. Is there anythine that will clean the scum from bottom of boat.

 

[jigngrub]

Do you not have a tongue jack on your trailer? To do a good leak test, level the boat with the trailer tongue jack. Fill the bilge with water and wait, mark any leaks that appear. Then lower the bow of the boat with the jack and watch for more leaks. Then crank the jack up and raise the bow up high to check the rear for leaks.

Keels are notorious for leaking on aluminum boats and it's nearly impossible to tell which rivets are leaking because the water either leaks inside the keel or runs along the edge. Since there's about a gazillion rivets that hold a keel strip on, it's time consuming and expensive to replace all the rivets. This is where Gluvit and Coat-it come into play.

The thing is, gluvit and coat-it are designed to be applied to the inside of the boat so it can seep down into the cracks... and you know what this means, take the boat apart.

 

[Weep'n Willy]

Coat-it can be applied to the external side also. For use above and below the waterline. I used this in my rebuild but I did so inside as I had the flooring out.

 

[jigngrub]

Coat-it can be applied to the external side also. For use above and below the waterline.

This is true, but it runs away from the cracks and not into them. Coat-it is also a very thin epoxy that is runny and drippy and pretty much a nightmare to try to apply overhead on an exterior. Coat-it and Gluvit also need to be painted over to protect them from the sun on an exterior.

 

[ferdly1]

I did exactly what you suggested. I jacked up the trailer and lowered it with water in boat no leaky rivets however water still dripping out drain hole. So I guess I will have to open her up for a permanent fix. Gonna have to wait till I have funds. Pisser is I can smell fish they must be catching them out on the lake bummer.

 

[64osby]

If you don't see any rivets leaking you may not have a problem with the rivets.

Sounds like you have an issue with the drain. You should see if a NEW PLUG leaks. If it does, install a new drain. May solve the water issue.

Good luck.

 

[Watermann]

OK, so you can't tell which rivets are leaking or find the small seeping leak just right now. Do you have a bilge pump with a float switch? So how much water is showing up in the bilge anyway after being on the water?

 

[ferdly1]

After doing search on internet I am gonna try sno-bol or the works to clean hull unless yall know of something better. I heard these products contain oxalic acid. Will this hurt my galvanized trailer or cause a problem if it gets inside the keel.. The keel still seems to be the problem with the slow drip from drain hole. Since I haven't found any leaking rivets I plan on sealing keel with 4200 mainly because it is removable. However I later plan on removing floor when I have funds available. If I tear into floor I want to do it once and be done with it. I was intending on replacing floor and putting on that new stardeck anyway -I hate carpet.

 

[Woodonglass]

Attwoods Hull Cleaner.

works really well ($8.95) and you can buy it at WalMart. Follow the directions on the Bottle and wear rubber gloves.

 

[Teamster]

If you live in or near farm country milk pipeline cleaner is cheap and works very well,..

 

[Teamster]

Something like this should work,..

Make sure it has acid, And follow all safety stuff,...

 

[jigngrub]

The keel still seems to be the problem with the slow drip from drain hole. Since I haven't found any leaking rivets I plan on sealing keel with 4200 mainly because it is removable.

That will be a good learning experience for you (because we learn from our mistakes), and you may (or may not) realize what I've been saying about trying to fix a leak in an aluminum boat with a exterior application of "stuff".

I like the gray scotch brite auto body work pad and Dawn dish washing detergent for cleaning aluminum:
https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/0281641
You can get these pads for about $1 each at most auto parts stores, they also make the exhaust pipes on your cars and trucks look like new when you wash them.

 

[ferdly1]

First of all thanks for all the help. There is a saying that has guided me much of my life. Spoken by a wise man- A man has to know his limitations (Clint Eastwood) Right now mine are funds. I can say without a doubt this year has been the worst year of my life. I am now 60. First of year, had to deal with cancer. My wife has had 2 surgeries. Back in October had hip replaced. All my extra money going to medical bills. Fortunately everything paid for outside of medical bills. To top it off lost my job in October. So things are tight. My one real joy in life is fishing and boating. I have two boats both used and old. They accomplish the task. My 90 hp evenrude blew up on me the start of summer. I was in the process of rebuilding motor when I lost job. Had to put a kabosh on that. This boat has been leaking for a while. Just want to stop the leak.bandaid ok for now. So far I haven't found silicone I couldn't remove. However if and when I find another job then I will do it right. Next year social security kicks in. So maybe I can do it right then. One thing I have learned in these 60 years it ALWAYS costs more than I thought. I don't want to disrespect any one in here, I just have financial limitations to deal with. Everyone here has been great. In fact, I am overwhelmed by the response. Thank you all so very much.

 

[jigngrub]

First of all thanks for all the help. There is a saying that has guided me much of my life. Spoken by a wise man- A man has to know his limitations (Clint Eastwood) Right now mine are funds. I can say without a doubt this year has been the worst year of my life. I am now 60. First of year, had to deal with cancer. My wife has had 2 surgeries. Back in October had hip replaced. All my extra money going to medical bills. Fortunately everything paid for outside of medical bills. To top it off lost my job in October. So things are tight. My one real joy in life is fishing and boating. I have two boats both used and old. They accomplish the task. My 90 hp evenrude blew up on me the start of summer. I was in the process of rebuilding motor when I lost job. Had to put a kabosh on that. This boat has been leaking for a while. Just want to stop the leak.bandaid ok for now. So far I haven't found silicone I couldn't remove. However if and when I find another job then I will do it right. Next year social security kicks in. So maybe I can do it right then. One thing I have learned in these 60 years it ALWAYS costs more than I thought. I don't want to disrespect any one in here, I just have financial limitations to deal with. Everyone here has been great. In fact, I am overwhelmed by the response. Thank you all so very much.

I know exactly what you're talking about from my own past and present experience, I'm also 60 and things have gone better for me in the past... but I've also had worse. I consider boats a luxury item and an expensive toy. Everything comes first before the boat, I don't have to have a boat but quality of life is better for me when I do have one.

I'm not suggesting you do a full restoration on your boat, they're surely expensive. But if you want to fix that leak it's going to cost you about $60 for a quart of gluvit or coat-it. Remove old plywood decking, expose keel rivets if not already exposed, apply coating per manufacturers directions, reinstall old decking and go fishing in a boat that doesn't leak anymore.

... but go ahead and try the 4200, maybe it'll work... maybe it'll only be temporary or won't work at all. Ya never know until you try. If it doesn't work, well... ya know what you gotta do.

 

[jbcurt00]

Ferd, a pix is worth posting.

As was mentioned earlier, I too, suspect that the crud you want to remove from the keel 'seam' is likely original sealant used by the factory at assembly. It often hardens and cracks over time, lessening it's ability to keep water out of the joints.

Going too aggressive to remove it, may in fact damage what ever sealant is left IN the seam.

KNOWING that its a less then permanent repair, and keeping an eye on it, may get you short term use of the boat again.

Good luck, and IMO, pushing forward, keeping on keeping on thru adversity can be great therapy. These projects are that for lots of us.

May 2015 be a good year, for us all

 

[ferdly1]

The plywood on my boat needs to be replaced along with the carpet. So when I rip it out there is no putting it back. The foam will also have to be replaced. plus once I am inside I plan on replacing rivets. Cost just an extimate 200+. The plan right now is to clean the area along the seam. You should be able to see the crud in the pictures I have posted.. That is 13 years of grime and scum from sitting in the lake.. It does not come off with soap or even a pressure washer. Once I have cleaned the seam then I will lightly sand that area so the adhesive will bond better. I did this on my other boat on the rub rail. Only thing rubrail is above waterline. That worked like a charm. I am not seeing any adhesive protruding from seam. Cleaning the area is purely to get the 4200 to bond better. There is another reason to do this. This will also tell me if that's where the leak is coming from. Although I am 90% sure. My investment on 4200- sealant atwood hullcleaner if it works and sand paper about 60 bucks. Headed to West marine for sealant and Walmart for hull cleaner. Oh my concern on hull cleaner was most cleaners contain acid. I don't want anything containg acid to get between the keel seam or get on my trailer so snobol is out and so is marykate on and off. Gonna check out the atwood to see if it is acid free. However hard to believe anything acid free can clean that scum. But for 8 bucks worth a try. Later guys. I sure hope 2015 will be better.

 

[jigngrub]

Try the Scotch Brite pad I posted a link to back in post #34 with Dawn dish washing soap to cut that crud. The gray pad is a very fine grit and you won't need to sand.

As I said back in post #13, your deck plywood may be CCA pressure treated plywood that can be reused. CCA doesn't rot and has a lifetime warranty. If it's CCA and it's wet you can just let it dry out and reuse it. There will be a stamp on the back side of the plywood that will tell you what it is. If your decking is CCA, your transom will be too.

All of your deck plywood pieces should be individually wrapped with carpet so they come out without tearing the carpet off and go back in the same way. It takes about 4 hours to remove all the decking from a Tracker.

The wet foam is a safety issue, if your boat is swamped it will sink instead of float. If you want to ride around on the water in a "sinker", that's your business.

 

[Watermann]

So none of the advice is what you wanted to hear and you're sticking with what you wanted to do anyway.

Good luck.