Boat motor won't start..........frustrated..........I need help!

[MotoBoat]

1975 Lund Fish-n-ski with original 1975 85HP 2 smoke. I have owned boat since 1993 with zero issues besides light duty electrical.......repair nav lights at bow an stern more than once, horn more than once....stuff like that.

Presently I have a no start issue. When key is turned at Johnson control box, nothing happens. It is as if no battery is installed. There is a fully charged 12v battery hooked up in boat as it has been since purchasing boat. I have had battery on trickle charge for days after fully charging.

Since nothing happens when key is turned, I took a wheel chair 12v battery with jumper wires from positive and negative to test electric choke solenoid and starter solenoid. I hooked up vehicle jumper cables to negative an positive side of 12v boat battery, hooked positive side of boat battery terminal to positive side of starter, neg to starter ground and starter motor turns outboard motor over.

Secondly, I have cleaned all battery terminal wire connections at the boat battery until shinny on both sides of each connection. Same for ground side of batter cable that bolts to head of motor. Including removal of bolt, polishing where bolt connects to head, bolt head, both sides of ground wire connection, both sides of star washers, and single side of anchor bolt. No change.

I have checked, and changed 20 amp inline fuse just above starter solenoid (motor fuse). No change

I have cleaned hot lead that connects to power bar at top of motor.

I have Johnson control at helm off of side panel and split open. I jumped backside connections on Neutral safety switch while turning key. No change.

At this point my thought is to test power at ignition switch. Am I on the right track? For this I would need step by step instructions, including wire color to test. I do not have a Ohm meter or test light. Nor do I know how to use a Ohm meter. I could get one, but do not know how to use it. Using a test light would likely be better.........for me.

What works when turned on: Nav lights at bow and stern. Original equipment horn (sounds funny) but works. Fish finder wired directly from battery to helm dash.

I am sun burnt and frustrated.........I really thought a neutral safety switch was the problem

 

[racerone]

Perhaps replace the wee ground wire on the solenoid.

 

[MotoBoat]

After tinkering as described in original post I went and purchased a multi-meter and watched a couple videos online to get familiar with setting, testing for continuity and voltage.

I had 12.60v at battery terminals.
12.60v where positive battery cable connects to starter solenoid.

Control box was split, tested ignition switch at red wire...........12.60v:
Neurtral safety switch had 12.60v with key turned to start position
Choke switch has 12.60v when ignition in ON position.

Neutral Safety switch, electric choke test positive for continuity.

When ignition is turned to start position hot lead to Neutral Safety switch, Electric choke, and starter soleniod voltage drops from 12.60v to 0.03v!!!!!!!!!

Am I looking for a bad ground somewhere? Based on research for my motor issue I had myself convinced that a Neutral safety switch or ignition was bad.

 

[oldboat1]

Based on your current findings, it sounds to me like the ignition switch should be replaced.

 

[tanman34]

I would test the back of the ignition switch with a twelve volt light up tester. Test the red wire going in, then ttest the others with the key in the on position, then test to see which one lights up when you turn it all the way to start. If none light up in the start position that is the problem. If you push the key in it will light a different wire up. And it is common for those switch to lose just one capability. HTH

 

[Harritwo]

With the voltage drop you are describing, do a specific gravity test on your battery. Check each cell. Then do a load test if the Specific Gravity tests good.

 

[jimmbo]

If the power drops to 0.03 volts, I would suspect the cables are rotted internally or the Battery has an internal issue and can't deliver enough current to keep the voltage up when the starter draws power

Get the battery load tested. Interstate Dealers will usually do it no charge, or obligation

 

[MotoBoat]

To all that have commented, thanks for those latest replies. I have plans to look closer at battery, battery ground at motor, wire continuity test between battery and motor. I feel like there is a dead ground caused from either positive or negative ground wires, loose connection or dirty connection.

I watched a couple vid's online and find it interesting to hear how peeps from other countries refer to "ground" as a "earth" connection. I like it.

 

[oldboat1]

might be useful: http://maxrules.com/graphics/omc/wiring/V4_1973.jpg

 

[BassinGas]

I had same problem on a 1974 70hp evinrude, turned out there is a little fuse by the solenoid, it was blown, replaced and it cranked right up.

 

[MotoBoat]

oldboat1. wow! Thanks for the OMC wiring link. Very easy to follow.

BassinGas, wish my issue was that easy. In line fuse, a 20 amp (I think) tests good with multimeter. Starting to cool off here. Boat is uncovered, in direct sunlight. I will spend a couple hours poking around tonight.

 

[MotoBoat]

Update! I hooked up jumper cables from boat battery to motor. Positive side of jumper to where positive battery cable connect to solenoid. Ground of jumper to where main battery ground on motor block is bolted. Motor turns over with key, and can be jumped from hot lead on solenoid to S terminal. Did a continuity test on both battery cables and found a good signal on Ground cable. Only a split second beep on Positive. There is a protective rubber hose that Positive, Negative, and main wire harness are encased. I pulled positive cable out from rubber sleeve and it was soaking wet, swollen from sitting in water. Had a hole in casing, and could squeeze a green goo out of casing that once was copper tinned wire. I believe the reason whey I have 12.60v at battery terminal and solenoid was water in hose completed the circuit.

I have ordered a new battery cable. That solves that issue. But now, as I recall, when boat stopped turning over (cause now known to be a rotted battery cable) I had discovered #4 cylinder was not firing. This was determined by removing spark plug wires one by one with motor idling on muffs, boat on it's trailer. There was a noticeable change in all cylinders except #4. No change with #4 spark plug removed.

A compression check revealed 116 - 125ft lbs in each cylinder.

I then switched #2 coil lead with #4 coil, and #4 with #2.inside power pack. Switched plug wires and fired motor. With #2 coil wired in #4's place, #4 cylinder was still not firing. But #4 coil was firing in #2 coil position. Motor idled the same as before switching #2 and #4 coil leads. Slightly rough. I then swapped spark plugs from #2 to #4, and #4 to #2. #4 was still not firing. Spark plug is wet with fuel.

What do I check having a Multimeter, and a 12v test light, and jumper cables until replacement battery cable arrives?

Is there a trigger wire for every coil? And do those wires attach to power pack? Does motor need to be running or can test be done with starter motor activated?

 

[MotoBoat]

Also, to avoid trapped water inside rubber hose I cut the hose at the low spot so there are two pieces sliding along cables in motor well. One end clamps inside motor shroud so technically it does not slide. Water can no longer sit inside. When slid apart there will be 1ft to 2ft of exposed cables rubbing on splash well when motor turns left or right. What do I wrap battery cables and main wire harness to protect from scrubbing on motor well? Would spiral wrap work? Wire flex tubing (like vacuum hose) has a slit down center, but could still hold water at low spot if seem is pointed up, or to either side.

I tried to upload a picture of wires in motor well but file is to large, exceeds 2mb.