boat paint.

92Nitro

Cadet
Joined
Oct 7, 2008
Messages
8
I need help from anyone that can tell me the basic steps in reclearcoating a boat with metal flake paint. This boat has been really abused. I have heard of a clear called imron by Dupont. Does anyone have any pointers? Thanks for any help.
 

ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
11,527
Re: boat paint.

It can be a little tricky to get a good repair on aged metal flake.
To get a good bond with new clear paint the surface should be sanded, the problem is if you sand into the metal flakes themselves it can make that area look different and the finished product may look blotchy. Without sanding, the clear will tend to peel or flake off after a few years, that's why it can be tricky.

Has the surface worn away down to the flake, or is the surface just chalky and dull? If it's just dull try sanding with very fine sand paper like 800 or higher, then buff. If this works then it's a much easier and lower cost fix.
 

92Nitro

Cadet
Joined
Oct 7, 2008
Messages
8
Re: boat paint.

It can be a little tricky to get a good repair on aged metal flake.
To get a good bond with new clear paint the surface should be sanded, the problem is if you sand into the metal flakes themselves it can make that area look different and the finished product may look blotchy. Without sanding, the clear will tend to peel or flake off after a few years, that's why it can be tricky.

Has the surface worn away down to the flake, or is the surface just chalky and dull? If it's just dull try sanding with very fine sand paper like 800 or higher, then buff. If this works then it's a much easier and lower cost fix.

Thank you for your response. The material does not seem to be worn away its just dull. You cant even see the metal through the clear in some spots unless it is wet. I already have everything taken off the boat including all the carpets taken out. some one has told me about an auto clear called imron have you heard of this?
 

ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
11,527
Re: boat paint.

Imron is a very good product, but respraying is a last resort method, it shouldn't be the first try at a solution. If the clear is still there and just dull, you can sand and buff and possibly get excellent results, do a small area first and see how it turns out. If that low cost method doen't yield the results you desire it can be sprayed later.
 

92Nitro

Cadet
Joined
Oct 7, 2008
Messages
8
Re: boat paint.

Ok. I purchased about $350 in supplies this friday. The Auto Paint store told me this is what I need. I got the Imron Clear along with the activator. I have started sanding and only have about half of the boat to go. Next I need to wash then wipe down with the cleaner/degreaser let it dry then spray. For anyone that knows am I missing any steps here? thanks for the help
 

gcboat

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
May 29, 2007
Messages
1,822
Re: boat paint.

I sure hope you bought personal safety protection. And I'm not talking about those cheap paper masks either. Just read the directions on the product and understand them really well, nothing like screwing up $300.00 worth of product due to a simple mistake or misunderstanding.
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,095
Re: boat paint.

I sure hope you bought personal safety protection. And I'm not talking about those cheap paper masks either.

Ayuh,....

You'll be wanting a danm Good Respirator.....

Imron is about the Worst of the nasties to be breathing....
 

wca_tim

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
May 28, 2007
Messages
1,708
Re: boat paint.

have you tried wetsanding until you're down past the oxidized gelcoat? it's not unusual to be able to bring it back with some careful wetsanding with something like 320 and then progressively finer up to 1500, buff it out with good compound or preferably aquabuff 2000 and finish up with 3m finesse it 2.

On painting with imron. the primary bad actor is hexamethylene dissocyanate. you CAN protect your lungs using a good combination particulate and organic vapor cartridge (the 3m one is the only one that didn't pass any through) AND IF you can avoid the temptation to use it more than once before discarding and replacing. That does not protect your eyes, skin, etc, etc, etc... and especially not in a clkosed poor ventilation garage. The biggest hazard issue is that by the time you smell the stuff, you're already in trouble

All of that being said, I don't see whay if you're determined that you bcan't roll and tip with slow catalyst and cool temps... I know thta por15's glisten clear works great and flows out after being brused on even.. it's based on fairly similar isocyanate chemistry and is probably even more resistant to damage underwater...

no matter what you paint with prep / degrease it until you're doubly sure your done and then do it again... I've had good luck with por15's cleaning products (etchants for use before laying two part isocyanate-based urethanes down).
 
Top