Boat stops accelerating at 1600 RPM

REV6String

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Looking for some help on my 1989 Cobia with a mercruiser 5.0L, Alpha 1 outdrive, rochester 4bbl carb.

I overheated my boat about 5-6 weeks ago when I lost my raw seawater pump. The engine temp didn't go over 185 when I limped it back into the marina, but my first clue to the overheating was the exhaust boots off the exhaust risers both popping and smoking. I've replaced all the rubber on both sides of the exhaust, cleaned the risers, verified the manifolds were clear, replaced the water pump in the lower unit, and tested pump output and water flow thru the engine both independently and also assembled.I inspected the exhaust system for damage or obstructions and found none, shutters were intact.

Since this boat sat for about 5 years before I got it, I've gone thru the ignition system and replaced all components: plugs, rotor, pickup in dist. I checked the fuel strainer at the carb, adjusted the choke and it ran really well before the overheating with no performance issues, it would get up to 35 mph at 4000 rpm with 5 people onboard.

Tonight I put it in the water and the cooling system is working great, but now there is very little acceleration above 1600 rpm. The engine rpm changes but the boat doesn't go any faster and runs worse as the throttle and RPM's increase. Can an ignition module fail partially like this? It got hot enough in the engine compartment to warp the air filter cover, so it would seem likely an electronic component might fail under those circumstances but I looked at the graph for advance and it seems that I would have issues well before 1600 rpm.

While working on the exhaust I changed the oil and filer, and a very worn sticky shift cable (installed per Merc service manual).

Blown head gasket? No water in exhaust or oil, no oil in discharge. Any help?
 

Bondo

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Ayuh,..... Change the fuel filter, 'n examine the contents of the ole 1 for anything but clean fresh gasoline,....
 

Scott Danforth

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REV6String

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I want to check what you meant by this statement.. The RPMs go up but the boat speed doesn't increase?

The engine speed continues to increase as the throttle moves, but the boat speed doesn't increase much from that point on and the engine performance starts going to hell as you give it more gas.
 

REV6String

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Thanks Scott! I've read that thread, in fact that's one of the posts that led me to join the forum - there's lots of good information on here, and everyone seems helpful and knowledgeable. I spent some years as a diesel mech, and did a ton of shade tree auto repairs when I was younger but this is my first I/O so additional help is needed in some areas.
 

Rick Stephens

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The engine speed continues to increase as the throttle moves, but the boat speed doesn't increase much from that point on and the engine performance starts going to hell as you give it more gas.

I would take from that statement that you have either a coupler going out or a propeller hub. If engine RPMs increase, and you are putting power to the prop, the boat will accelerate.
 

REV6String

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Is there a way to tell if it is the coupler without major disassembly? Just for giggles I put it in F and can spin the engine from the prop with no slippage. I mean when it goes does it go all the way? Also pulled the prop and the forward end of the hub (toward the thrust washer) the rubber seems to be missing - the rubber doesn't extend all the way to the lip of the splined shaft. I'm thinking a new prop is a relatively cheap test vs. removing the engine and drive.
 

Bondo

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Is there a way to tell if it is the coupler without major disassembly?

Ayuh,...... Welcome Aboard,....... If ya reach way down to 'bout center, aft of the motor, where the drive shaft goes into the flywheel cover, 'n feel 'round,.....
Yer hand should come out abit greasy,.....
If ya see rubber bits, or metal bits, the coupler has failed,.....
 

REV6String

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No indication of coupler failure I could detect - just grease. So i put on a new prop and took her for a spin tonight. Same issue, drive seemed to follow the engine fine, but this time I put a timing light on it and noticed the advance was very little (bout 5-8 degrees up to 2200 rpm then it went screwy. Sigh. At least I prolly needed a new prop anyways since the old one was original and pretty beat up. I'm going to install the fuel test rig in the morning and see what's what. I still suspect the ignition module since I rebuilt the carb yesterday but want to eliminate the fuel system before biting the bullet for a new module.
 

REV6String

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Update: Compression testing was very good, the fuel system tested good. I tached the drive shaft at the engine and it is following engine speed. Upon further time with the boat in the water I was wrong about the engine RPM increasing past 2100 RPM; the engine speed stops even though the accelerator cable is opening the plates but the engine starts running like crap (technical term). So, I'm left with the amplifier (advance module) which they don't make any more per the local Merc dealer, and according to the Merc dealer it's about $1000 in parts for a conversion, yikes! I think I'm going to drop in a Delco EST, as recommended above, to eliminate the module unless anyone has any further suggestions? I'm just a bit leery that the new distributor won't have the same advance curve even though the Sierra tech guys said "it should, it's a marine distributor". He didn't give me a boat load of confidence (pun intended)!
 

REV6String

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correction; the engine speed stops INCREASING although more gas is called for by the accelerator etc.
 

REV6String

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I've checked and tested everything on the WOT sticky list. BTW, engine coupler and prop hub should prolly be added to that list, eh?
 

Bondo

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Ayuh,..... The Delco Voyager is a solid system, at a pretty fair deal,.....

I think Merc, 'n Volvo are runnin' it on some motors,.....
 

REV6String

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So I finally got my boat in the water yesterday after installing the AC Delco Voyager dizzy. I must say that the install was pretty flawless and the directions really clear. Timing was a bit different, but not hard. The end result was that I was able to get up to 30 mph at 3800 rpm all day long. Next time out I'll push her up to WOT and see if I can get more at the 4200-4600 limit. I'm pretty sure that the ECM from the Thunderbolt IV system was fried when I had the overheating due to the raw seawater pump failure. I just wanted to write a post that showed the eventual solution so anyone else might find it helpful, and to give a BIG thank you to everyone that helped me along the process of getting to the bottom of the issue. I'm certainly going to be turning to this forum in the future for help - you guys are a great wealth of knowledge.
 
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