Boat Wiring

jsb91010

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May 4, 2008
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is this diagram I drew up how I would run my wires? I am kind of confused because the stern light has 3 wires (+,-, and one that says bow light) I am assuming you hook the bow light one with the +. My bow light wire is not long enough to run from the back of the boat to the console. Do i lengthen the wire, or connect it directly to the battery terminal?
wiring.jpg
 

slasmith1

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Re: Boat Wiring

if it is a mast style stern light it has three wires because when you are running at night it is white light from the stern only. When you are at anchor at night it is 360deg. white light. the switch should have a nav position and an anchor position.
 

jsb91010

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Re: Boat Wiring

yes, the switch for the lights has 3 positions...also has 3 "prongs" on the back of the switch i don't know where they run either.
 

slasmith1

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Re: Boat Wiring

ok heres the best i can do without drawing a picture:

stern light:
ground wire to ground block
wire labeled bow light (when power applied should only light up back half of mast light) to nav side of switch.
other power lead to anchor side of switch.

bow light:
ground wire to ground block
power wire to nav side of switch

switch the 1 connector that should be left goes to positive distribution block.

if that doesn't work let me know and i'll try to scan in a drawing later.
 

jsb91010

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Re: Boat Wiring

thank you slasmith...is the other parts of the picture right? If i hook it up like that I should be ok? and so basically I am going to havce to lengthen both bow and stern light wires long enough to run up to the center console where the switch is, correct?
 

jsb91010

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Re: Boat Wiring

...think I got it man...I went and got one of those 6 circuit with negative fuse box thing a majiggers...and I am pretty sure I got it...I am assuming I am going to have to lengthen the bow light wire which is ran under my rubrail. Lengthen it long enough to reach my fuse box.
 

Silvertip

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Re: Boat Wiring

I hope you realize that all the red wires need to have the switches between the block and red wire!

If you look at the stickies at the top of this forum you'll see a couple of wiring diagrams.
 

jsb91010

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Re: Boat Wiring

ohhh...now you really confused me :D ...also i had other questions..what is the best way to connect to the screws and such? Should i heatshrink them? Liquid electrical tape? Thanks guys!
 

Silvertip

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Re: Boat Wiring

In your diagram, current flows from the positive terminal of the battery, to the positive terminal block, through the device, then back to the negative terminal block and the negative terminal of the battery. With no switches in the circuit, the lights will be on all the time. Each device needs a switch between the terminal block and the wire leading to the device. DO NOT CONNECT A SWITCH ACROSS THE RED AND BLACK LEADS. That makes a short and you will blow the fuse.

Here is a simple circuit.

LightingCircuit.jpg
 

jsb91010

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Re: Boat Wiring

ohhhh yeah, i know what your saying...I have my switch wired up the way slasmith said too, and the lights were working on the different switch positions...I assume I did it right...I am going to get some heatshrink today so I can heatshrink all the terminal connectors. What is a good size fuse to use in the fusebox? I had a bunch of 20amp laying around so that's what is in there now. For some reason i think i remember my fishfinder using like a 5amp or small fuse...just don't want to burn it up. Thanks
 

Chris1956

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Re: Boat Wiring

you should base the fuse size on the total wattage of the bulbs. I would think that 3Amps each is more than enough, so a 6A fuse is probably fine.
 

slasmith1

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Re: Boat Wiring

glad to hear it worked make shure to heat shrink.
 

jsb91010

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Re: Boat Wiring

Is there a problem with having 20amp fuses on the lights? also one more question...should I have an inline fuse on the red wire near the battery? The fuse box has a fuse for each electronic already, just wanted to make sure. I am going to go buy some smaller amp fuses for my fish finder. I think 20amps is too much. I'm thinking 5amp should be good for the fish finder.
 

Mark_VTfisherman

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Re: Boat Wiring

Is there a problem with having 20amp fuses on the lights? also one more question...should I have an inline fuse on the red wire near the battery? The fuse box has a fuse for each electronic already, just wanted to make sure. I am going to go buy some smaller amp fuses for my fish finder. I think 20amps is too much. I'm thinking 5amp should be good for the fish finder.

I would not run 20 amp fuses for anything... except maybe a lighter socket.

Your lights will probably be only 2 amps max for standard nav and anchor lights (1004 bulb is about .94 amp) and sonar (fish finders) are often less than one amp draw. My old Eagle has run on a 3A fuse for 14+ years without ever blowing. Think it is rated at like 3 watts.

I run 12 gauge or 16 ga wire for everything (less voltage loss)- usually 12ga when more than one load will be on one wire. Then I still use the smallest fuse that works for the load. While theoretically 12 ga stranded wire may be able to sustain a higher load (according to the insulation imprinting, which could even say something like 20A at 600V), I would try to avoid loading wire in a boat to the max of its rating. I try to limit one run of 12ga wire to 10 amps combined load at 12V which is overkill, but safe. The small amount of wiring in a boat makes the additional cost and weight really a small sacrifice to pay.

It is likely there are many in the forum here who know more than I, but overkill has worked quite well for me in boats. I also would add a circuit breaker for your each main wire from the battery.

Hope this helps.
 

Silvertip

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Re: Boat Wiring

A 20 amp fuse for the size wiring you use for the lights is way too high and actually becomes useless. In the event there is a short in the wiring the wiring will burn up before the fuse blows. In other words the wire becomes the fuse. You NEVER use a fuse that has a higher rating than the ampacity of the smallest wire gauge in the circuit. In other words using a 20A fuse in a circuit in which the current carrying capacity of the wire is only 10 or 15A creates a potential fire hazard.
 

Mark_VTfisherman

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Re: Boat Wiring

A 20 amp fuse for the size wiring you use for the lights....creates a potential fire hazard.

What he said.

BTW- my total load with everything running isn't even close to 10A, but I have a new (old) Walker electric downrigger to install which is rated at "2.5 amps/32 amps stalled" so that will change :-0 (I will have to do some more research but I think actual draw should be about 12 amps. We'll see if a 15A fuse will run it this spring.)

BTW- anyone have an old Walker swivel base? I have the part that mounts to the 'rigger, but it didn't come with the mounting base.
 

mphy98

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Re: Boat Wiring

before i rewired the previous boats i had, i made a written wiring diagram for the entire boat. It is not that hard. I used different colored wire for each application, ie bow lights, stern lights, horn, bilge,ect. black always used for ground. Always fuse for 3amps or less unless you have need for bigger wire and that application. the reason for the different colors is simplicity to find and replace that wire should it get cut or break.
 

Silvertip

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Sep 22, 2003
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28,771
Re: Boat Wiring

The idea is to use the standard boat wire colors so that a tech knows by wire color what circuit he/she is dealing with. While your own color scheme is great for you, it becomes useless when you sell the boat or to technician, unless you provide them with the code.
 
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