Both DPX V P drives has water mixing ?

[alan ber]

2003 4,3 GXI Volvo Penta engines
DRIVES - DPX duo prop , stainless props
30 ft
9 thousand lbs

Boat stored in a wet slip , 10 months ago gear oil was changed , maybe 20 hours of use
Other day Puled boat too clean barnacles & check drive gear oil

DAMN , Both drives had water mixing into gear oil , Milky


My dilemma , Marina has no working areas , they wont let boat owners work on boats on land , State Marina
Trailered boat home too clean & re paint drives , figure a week or so before code starts banging on my door
Never expecting water in both drives , Calling a few mobile guys working marina , both said they are swamped , month out , Drives have too come off , pressure test too see what seals leaking , Have too find hard storage since my contacts are mobile . Could be laid up 2 months , Add in marina fees plus hard fee

I try too do my own work , never tackling drives , only changing oil, zincs

On UTUBE there are a couple of videos but questionable

Hate too start something and running into issues , nobody too call

IF I decided too change the lower seals what must I do , get , tools , any sites too point me 2 ?

Any additive can I add too stop leak seals like they do on cars ?

I am thinking too put fresh oil , pull boat often too check , and get too it in a few months when things slow up ?
Hate doing things 1/2 assed but my options are limited , Just wont use boat until we can fix ?
I would prefer too do it myself , what can I expect , tools , hidden screws , special tools , shaft can come out viewing
a number of o rings

THANK U

 

[Scott Danforth]

first, pull the drives. if its the input seal, there will be oil and water in the u-joint bellows. that would indicate that water got into the bellows first, then took out the input shaft seal while rusting up the u-joints

if not, pressure test the drive, using 15psi. you will need to use soapy water to look for the leak.

 

[alan ber]

Need too Replace lower seals on DPX Drives

Considering changing lower seals on both drives . Water in gear oil ,
Will remove drives too see if oil in bellows , (what type of pressure pump ) making a DIY ?
2004 DPX duo drives on 4.3 GXI engines
U TUBE helpful , questionable ?
Props are off ,
One video showed a guy removing old seal & o rings , using hook tool , small screw driver , chipping away until the old seal & 0 rings came loose , cleaning cavity , installing new using a PCV pipe
Another guy was a repair shop , drive on a bench , propped up , different manufacture , but he removed old
seal and O rings same as above , He did state make sure not too gouge shaft
Few guys did the same , using 2 screws , Using a closed wrench as a guide , then a crow bars lifting equally until seal came loose
HACK JOBS , ? NORMAL WAY ? It works great , just does not seem correct , short cut
One guy that had same drives , he made a DIY pipe that fit over the 3 arms (similar too the VP tool that removes inner prop ) turning and the entire assembly came loose , but it cut off , He was talking about a hidden 10 mm screw

DOES the inner assembly turn and come out as one piece ? and the proper way too replace all O rings & seal

Shop manual will it be clear , descriptive for the week end warrior too understand ? or will I still be running too
utube view something which I find easier ,

thank you as usual

 

[muc]

Not sure why you would start a second post on the same problem?
GA_Boater Maybe combine the posts?

 

[muc]

Agree that pressure test is next step. Might want to look at the sticky’s for advice on how to build one.

Not sure if I would recommend pulling the drive yet. This is a DPX, so I would just peel back the bellows and pressure test on the boat.

You really should get a copy of the Volvo service manual for this drive. Volvo made a few different DPXs so you will need a serial number to identify which one you have. If you post the S/N we maybe able to help you find one.

In your other post (why start a second post?) you seem to be focusing on the “lower seals” do you mean the prop shaft seals? On a DPX they are usually the last seals to leak.

Resealing a DPX is a pretty advanced DIY job. Might be best to read the manual first to determine what tools you will need.

Are you sure the leak isn't because of a bad oring on the drain or level check plugs? If you didn’t replace them during the last gear lube change, I would look there first.

Water in the gear lube can cause expensive problems. I suggest that you repair this before using the boat.

 

[Scott Danforth]

This is what I use for pressure and vacuum testing. https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MITMV8500-Silverline-Automotive-Vacuum/dp/B0002SQYUA

 

[alan ber]

New O rings on fill screw and top 10 months ago, (oil change )
I did find out the internal assembly of the lower prop seal spins out , , requiring a special tool $ 259.00
Correct way is too remove and change all o rings , and other seals , KIT sold ,
Shop I used in past will fit me in Monday , with boat on trailer , promised few days ,
Correct way is too correct this issue before boat is back in water ,

RE my 2 posts same topic ? First one did not post and it was saved , thought I hit discard , and wrote another ,
,
Don't know what happened but got scolded by 2

 

[muc]

I think you have made a good decision. I have found that once one seal starts leaking, the others aren’t far behind. The drives are 17 years old.
The bad side of Volvo drives is that they are very special tool intensive.
The good side is that if the dealer has all the tools and training. It’s easy to beat the flat rate. This means that a good tech will have some extra time they can spend doing a few extras, like checking shimming and backlash. Most of the time I would even have time to do a light paint touch up. Also, I can’t count how many times during reassembly. I have found a bearing that is just starting to fail and was able to get it replaced, saving the customer money down the road.

Some suggestions for anyone bringing their boat in for this service.
Get some toilet bowl cleaner and get the drive sparkling clean before dropping it off. Now is the time to do this because any damage to the seals due the harsh cleaning will get taken care of during the reseal and increase the chance the tech will have time to do a paint touch up.
If the ujoint bellows are older than 2 years, have them done now. The tech will be right there and will be able to do them for basically the cost of the bellows.
Have the tech take a close look at the water intake hose and fitting. Once again it should just be parts price only.

Note that I'm in Minnesota and spent 30 years doing this job. If your in saltwater, I'm guessing there won’t be any extra time and if you want these services you will have to ask for them.