bravo

[daviscfad]

Ok Below i have some pictures a guy sent me of a bravo 3 he has wanting to sell.. Can you guys tell if its new design old design i am almost sure i am going to get it the price is unbeatable..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v307/daviscfad/Bravo3-1-5.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v307/daviscfad/Bravo3-2-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v307/daviscfad/Bravo3-3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v307/daviscfad/Bravo3-4.jpg

 

[Bondo]

Re: bravo

Ayuh,...

The easiest way to figure it out is,.. Run the Serial #s...

 

[daviscfad]

Re: bravo

when you get theserial numbers where do you run them

 

[Bondo]

Re: bravo

when you get theserial numbers where do you run them

Ayuh,...

Personally,...
I' go to any of the Mercruiser Parts Look-up sites,+ see where the # fits into the grand scheme of things...
Or,.. Most of the Service Manuals have a serial # range listed,...
Or,.. Don might see a post,+ just answer the question from his resources...

 

[daviscfad]

Re: bravo

thanks bondo from what i found out its from the 2000 to 2004 models... I only paid 750 for it

 

[Bondo]

Re: bravo

Ayuh,...

That's a Steal,....

I picked up a clean Complete BI,(early model) with it's transom assembley last summer for a Grand,...
Then he threw in a solid running alpha 1 for another 300...

I was pretty happy with That...

 

[daviscfad]

Re: bravo

thats a great deal also... I let an unused alpha housing older style and konrad drive go last year for 600.. What goes around comes around

 

[Don S]

Re: bravo

You do know it's a Bravo III drive didn't you? What's the gear ratio?
Look on the port side of the upper for both numbers.

 

[daviscfad]

Re: bravo

yeah i know itis a bravo 3 that is what i was looking the ratio is 2.20.1

 

[TilliamWe]

Re: bravo

davis, I noticed that pictures of the rear bearing carrier were conspicuosly absent. When you get the drive, take a real good look at it, and make sure that whatever corrosion it has (and it will have some, maybe a lot) does not compromise the seal. The rear bearing carrier is a $300 or part, but the labor to replace it would be a couple hundred more.

 

[daviscfad]

Re: bravo

davis, I noticed that pictures of the rear bearing carrier were conspicuously absent. When you get the drive, take a real good look at it, and make sure that whatever corrosion it has (and it will have some, maybe a lot) does not compromise the seal. The rear bearing carrier is a $300 or part, but the labor to replace it would be a couple hundred more.

Thanks for the heads up tilliamWe... How will i know if it is bad oil leaking out??? The guy said mechanically it was fine his wife just said he needed to get it out of the garage I will try to find some info on how to check it when i get it

 

[TilliamWe]

Re: bravo

Oil leaking out would be the first sign, yes. When you get the drive, take some pictures of that area and post them. If you take good photos, we should be able to tell easily if it's bad. The lower case looked just fine from the pics I did see, so it's probably okay. But you do want to be sure.

 

[HT32BSX115]

Re: bravo

yeah i know itis a bravo 3 that is what i was looking the ratio is 2.20.1

2.20:1 might be a little low for your engine (and the torque it's capable of)

Mine is 1.81:1 ratio and is propped right (for my Lib 211 with 26p props)....... I ran about 53 with 24p props. (My complete engine drive combination came right out of a 1998 24ft Bayliner )

With 2.20:1 according to the prop slip calculator, you may not get more than about 55 mph even with 30p props ( assuming you limit the engine to 4600rpm)

I think 30p props are the highest available for a BIII.....I see them on ebay frequently.....I bought my 26p props on ebay for about $600(new shipped)

http://www.go-fast.com/Prop_Slip_Calculator.htm (use about 8%slip for a BIII)





Regards,



Rick

 

[daviscfad]

Re: bravo

tilliam i will post pics

HT32BSX115
you think i will need a 30 pitch prop?

 

[daviscfad]

Re: bravo

i know that with a mercruiser 350 and an alpha 1 the boatwouldrun 57mph.. I am suprised it will only go around 55 with the 454 and bravo 3 but l had read the three is slower than the 1 on top end..

 

[HT32BSX115]

Re: bravo

I would like to drive side-by-side with another 211 Lib with a stock 350. I've talked to a few people with SBC(260hp/Alphas) powered 211's and they reported about 50mph top speed. (and slow outta the hole)

I get 57 now (only 3 mph less than with the 460 Cobra) lightly loaded in smooth water...


If you were to use a tricked out 350/383 etc.... and turn it 5500 rpm you might be ok with 30p props. Use that Prop-slip calculator to determine approx top speed. It's dead on accurate for mine with my current configuration. & I'm using GPS for speed)......

(5500/2.20:1, 30p, 8% slip = 65mph.) <---to get that, you need enough torque to turn that fast.....and I don't know if I'd want to turn a stock Bravo at 5500 RPM for a long time though...you might need a drive shower.....

 

[daviscfad]

Re: bravo

have you had any problems with corosion on your props?? I read somewhere on another forum about people having problems with that

 

[HT32BSX115]

Re: bravo

Mercury has quite a bit of info on Bravo III corrosion. It's mainly due to the large amount of stainless steel in brackish/salt water.

Active corrosion control (Mercathode) is a must and must be set up correctly if the boat is left in the water for ANY extended periods of time.

Mine is in the garage on a trailer. No corrosion at all there....

 

[daviscfad]

Re: bravo

Mine is in the garage on a trailer. No corrosion at all there....

Yeah mine is on a trailer also... I am not planning on using my boat in salt water at all unless i get that heat exchange thing where you have the fresh water running through the engine not salt... I also do not plan on leaving the boat in the water for extended time period.. My mercathode stuff is there just not fully hooked up i am gonna take the manual don provided in the sticky and hook it up when i get the motor going

 

[HT32BSX115]

Re: bravo

The Mercathode absolutely required if you're going to leave the boat in the water especially at a marina where people are using "shore power" etc. (or anywhere for that matter)

You also need to ensure that all the grounding straps are installed in all the correct places and the anodes are clean and tight.

I did not connect my Mercathode but I don't leave mine in the water at all. It goes to the lake for a few hours and comes home! (I also have closed cooling. I got it from These guys)

The Bravo III's are particularly sensitive to corrosion mainly because there's DOUBLE the amount of exposed stainless steel in the water, and according to Mercury, a lot of people did not ensure that the Mercathode was "tuned/installed" properly.....the installation procedure is not difficult but it MUST be followed...... Newer BIII's also have more anode material ("zincs"......[actually aluminum now]) bolted on than earlier models to counteract all that SS.

Do a google search for "Bravo III corrosion" and you'll find a lot of info.

have you had any problems with corosion on your props?? I read somewhere on another forum about people having problems with that

It's not really a "Prop" corrosion problem. If the galvanic corrosion is not controlled, the actual drive (aluminum case) starts corroding anywhere the water touches exposed aluminum. Stainless steel props do corrode, but not a lot.