Broke off Starter bolt in the block

[COL BRADDOCK]

Had starter problems at the end of the year on the last trip. Went to replace the start and after a many hours trying to get the inside bolt buttoned up I finally realized the reason the bolt was missing. It didnt back out it busted off in the hole on the block.
almost impossible to get hands in there due to the tightness of space around the starter. Anyone have any ideas short of pulling the motor?
Bolt extractor is going to be extremely difficult to do...

Any one have any ideas??

 

[alldodge]

If you can get square on it, could try a left handed drill bit. This does mean you can be sure drill bit is dead straight on and square. Otherwise its motor pull

 

[COL BRADDOCK]

I was thinking that but its going to be super hard to get square. I will definitely need something to keep it square

 

[Scott Danforth]

I would pull the motor

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,..... I once did this on a 3.0l at a dock, with a right-angle cordless drill, 'n lefthanded bit,.....
But for a V-motor, I'd pull the motor, rather than destroyin' the block,....

 

[Monterey296Twin5.0Gi]

You might be surprised. On a car I had built years ago I had just put a new engine in and I was using the same clutch linkage and pivot in the block from before. It wasn't long after driving it for a while before the pivot pin in the block sheared off. It was tough to access with anything but my hand. So I go through the trouble of pulling the engine, I get the engine half way out, to where I can see the hole, the broken end in it, then I twist my finger on it, AND IT COMES RIGHT OUT!

Yours may be tougher, so I wonder if you could epoxy a bolt end to it. Something that can cure quickly Then when cured and you go to try to work it out with a wrench, maybe try a gentle tighten/loosen rocking motion, so the epoxy doesn't break, but maybe the bond of the bolt to the threads does.

 

[Fun Times]

You might be surprised. I twisted my finger on it, AND IT COMES RIGHT OUT!

I've been lucky like this with the starter bolt a few times as well.
Are you able to get the starter removed since the 1 bolt head is missing?
Also check the starter screw hole areas on the engine block for cracks using a mirror.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Like the last two posts said, once the head of the bolt is gone, it might just twist out, done it twice.
There enough room to drop the starter?
Even dropping 2 inches gives you enough room to get to the bolt.

 

[Scott Danforth]

on the other hand, on many boats you must remove the motor to access the starter.

 

[COL BRADDOCK]

So I went the motor removal route. Made it as far as pulling the outdrive. Because of the salt water I cannot get the leg off. Tried using the trims to pop it off, block of wood, heat/pb blaster (two days) and nothing! One bolt(of the 6) on the left side seems welded. Probably time to start cutting..any suggestions. Drill out the bolt or cut?

 

[alldodge]

What happens when using the wood above and between the drive?

 

[Khris Kraft]

So I went the motor removal route. Made it as far as pulling the outdrive. Because of the salt water I cannot get the leg off. Tried using the trims to pop it off, block of wood, heat/pb blaster (two days) and nothing! One bolt(of the 6) on the left side seems welded. Probably time to start cutting..any suggestions. Drill out the bolt or cut?

Drill the bolt. Mark your drill bits to the length of the stud from the seam out to the end and only drill that far for now. So drill of course from the end of stud to where seam is. Start will small drill and work your way up. Your only drilling at this point to get the drive off. Once off you can ez out the stud or drill the rest of it out. Then replace. I'm a safe driller by trade. In my work I need to drill a 1/4 inch hole sometimes 8" through a safe vault door...then through the fire proofing then through the hard plate and into the lock body without destroying anything so I can insert a scope and read the wheel pack or find the problem. (Locked safe or vault) . If this were my situation... "I' would consider drilling the same hole up through the bottom of the boat and into the end of the broken starter bolt and extract it that way. That's just me of course. I can easily repair a 1/4 hole in a hull. Lots of measuring and laying out your drill site is needed but I do this everyday so I'm used to it. DISCLAIMER. I'm in no way suggesting you do this or advise anyone to try this. I'm not saying it's a smart thing to do. And sure I will get a bunch of thumbs down or what ever for suggesting this. But if I'm being honest here, I myself would consider it ...not saying I would do it... but I would consider it. I don't feel repairing one 1/4 diameter hole in a hull is a horrible thing to do. I have seen through hull raw water fittings removed and relocated with holes repaired and have seen hull repairs after hitting a log... have seen repairs on through hull transducers sealed Have seen a few out drives removed and transoms filled and sealed then outboards with brackets installed. So in my mind a silly little drill hole is easy rather then an engine pull. You should still remove the drive at some point and service it. Sounds like it's been a while.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Im guessing the drive isnt being pulled every year for the annual maintenance

 

[COL BRADDOCK]

Im guessing the drive isnt being pulled every year for the annual maintenance

No. I’ll send your tips to the last owner to remind him. Thanks tips!

Im guessing the drive isnt being pulled every year for the annual maintenance

 

[COL BRADDOCK]

What happens when using the wood above and between the drive?

 

[Bt Doctur]

with the rams attached place a 2 x 3 x "x" between the drive and transom.Trailer up slowly increasing the wood length as required
Gimbal bearing will most likely come out with the drive