Broken Brass Engine Block Fitting

GCartwright

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 1, 2012
Messages
149
The head of the brass petcock was rounded and I was unable to remove it from the fitting so I attempted to remove the brass fitting that is threaded into the block. This fitting broke off flush with the block.

Motor is 1991 7.4L

Any tips for removing the broken part from the block?
Looks like a black thread sealer was used during install
BrassBlockFitting.jpg
 

tlewis1

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Oct 9, 2012
Messages
112
Probably going to need a easy out kit and allot of patience...Try applying a little heat with a heat gun once you got the center of the plug drilled and the right size easy out ready to go.

Good luck
 

alldodge

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Need some heat, then and a left handed drill bit, then easyout
 

GCartwright

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jul 1, 2012
Messages
149
I didn't look through what was left inside the block with a flashlight but does the drilling only need to be done if the diameter of the fitting is smaller at the end. All that's left is the threaded section of the fitting that is the block.

The section that has a coating on the threads in picture below
Fitting.jpg
 

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,344
The safest way is to pull the motor and turn it on its side .If there is a piece of brass still in the block the best way is to drill and retap for 1/4 inch pipe tap. Be very careful about the depth, you dont want to go thru the cylinder wall.
If the brass broke the chances of a easy(will break) out is slim.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Jul 23, 2011
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First choice would be a section of hacksaw blade and slowly make 6 small cuts to be able to drive in a torx drive.

Second would be with motor out, to use a small mapp gas torch, heat the remaining section really really hot, pound in a torx driver to make a positive drive spline, then pull torx driver out , use penetrating oil to cool it back down, re-insert torx driver and back out the remaining piece of the adapter.

Not sure I would want to have a lit mapp gas torch in the bilge
 

GCartwright

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Jul 1, 2012
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149
Thanks for the replies, all the water has been drained for the season so I have time to get the right tools and plan together
 

Kloctower

Seaman
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Oct 17, 2016
Messages
60
I work at a factory and deal with broken off brass fittings in cast all the time pretty much every day. Buy a good high quality name brand easy out like one made by Cobalt don't buy the cheap ones at Walmart they will break no doubt about it. There are some other options like a brass punch and a hammer tried to tap it around this also promotes breaking it loose. But these guys are on the right track you need heat. heat it up and then use the easy out a high-quality one use the largest one you can and get it in there as far as you can as to not use the tiny point at the very end you want a larger-diameter section to make contact with the fitting before you start to turn it out. I would avoid drilling at all costs you don't want anything falling back down in there. But if you must drill to get a larger area of the easy out in contact with the fitting then so be it
 

harleyman1975

Ensign
Joined
May 12, 2003
Messages
959
I like the torx bit idea. I would grind it flat and then pound it into the brass to "machine it" so the bit has something to grab. the shock of pounding in the bit will help to break it loose hopefully...if it slips go to the next size up. it will come eventually.
 

Kloctower

Seaman
Joined
Oct 17, 2016
Messages
60
I could see the torx bit working but it could also fail and making it worse by removing more material. Or break off which actually wouldn't be so bad lol. I guess the concept is the same really. Stuff something inside the hole hammer it home and turn it out!
 

fhhuber

Lieutenant
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Jun 19, 2014
Messages
1,365
The main issue I have with the EZ-out plan is the tapered spiral tends to try to expand the bit you are trying to turn out of the threaded hole With a soft metal such as brass you are making the bit you are trying to remove grab the threads harder. Thinner wall will make this more of an issue.

This is why I generally look at the EZ-out as one of the last options. I like the Torx idea.

Needle files cut brass easily and can be used where you can't get a hacksaw blade.
 

Kloctower

Seaman
Joined
Oct 17, 2016
Messages
60
We use pretty much all brass fittings inside steel or aluminum here at Cooper standard automotive where I work. I get what your saying but good name brand easy outs work time and time again. Not saying a file and torx bit won't do tha exact same thing but I think maybe you have been turned away from easy outs like most guys because most of them are made cheap and break easy. I was the same way until I got this job and now that The factory I work at supplies the easy outs and buys the best they can get I use them religiously. They make our jobs as easy and fast as they can and that is the best fastest way for us to get broken brass fittings out. Maybe get u a good quality set and give them one more shot!! When u get good gear and they are used right they do what they are supposed to! OK I said my piece I will go away now just feel like maybe u had a bad experience with them and gave up
 

Bondo

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Apr 17, 2002
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71,079
Ayuh,..... I'm with Kloctower,.... I Love the short spiral Snap-on set I've got,...

Also got a smaller Matco set, 'n a huge set of cheaper ones that go up into major pipe sizes,... 2" I think,...
 
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