buff and wax

[rdnk_4_lf]

i am trying to get the clear coat back on my boat it is faded and the clear coat has peeled how do i fix that

 

[ondarvr]

Re: buff and wax

A little more info on what boat you have and if it's a metal flake finish would help. Clears are only used on metal flake, and they don't normally peel, so what you have is a clear coat paint of some type and if it's peeling there's nothing you can do to fix it other than remove and redo it.

 

[rdnk_4_lf]

Re: buff and wax

well i got to looking at it and the clear coat just has faded and probably a good wax will solve the problems it is a 1979 cheetah xs bass boat if you can find one post picts i cant seem to find another one like it

 

[wca_tim]

Re: buff and wax

A little more info on what boat you have and if it's a metal flake finish would help. Clears are only used on metal flake, and they don't normally peel, so what you have is a clear coat paint of some type and if it's peeling there's nothing you can do to fix it other than remove and redo it.

what he said.... that being said, depending on how much clear gelcoat was left when it was first painted (sometimes people clear coat when they really should just buff the gelcoat out), you might be able to do wonders with a buffer and some elbow grease...

 

[rdnk_4_lf]

Re: buff and wax

yeah i had some wax out in the garage and i cleaned a spot a bout the size of a basket ball it looks brand new and by the way thanks for all the help

 

[tracyjade]

Re: buff and wax

Just be sure and use marine grade wax - car wax will not cut it. You'll only end up with a boat that looks even worse than when you started after a day or two out in the sun. The wax will come up gray white and gross. IF that happens, then take some wd40 (wonder in a can) and spray and wipe over the waxy haze. It will clean it up right away and lays down a silicone sheen that will give you that "waxed" look. Best bet though for metal flake is to find a buddy that has a body shop, tape everything up, sand prep and shoot some new gel over the flake - - I'm begging my dad to shoot mine for me. (he's a body man and a mechanic).

Tracy

Yes, a girl who grew up in her daddy's garage and knows a thing or two about stuff.

Oh, and who also knows how to back a trailer into the water correctly.

 

[aspeck]

Re: buff and wax

Vertglas is a good product. Recommended to me in 2003 by Crazy Charlie. I tried it, and my boat has looked new and shiny ever since. Here is the thread:

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=32172&highlight=vertiglass

 

[oops!]

Re: buff and wax

im still not convinced this is a clear coat.....


im guessing this is a faded gellcoat........


is this over a metal flake finish?....or just smooth shiny paint like stuff?

either way....wax and buff will work for a while......

 

[oops!]

Re: buff and wax

Just be sure and use marine grade wax - car wax will not cut it. You'll only end up with a boat that looks even worse than when you started after a day or two out in the sun. The wax will come up gray white and gross. IF that happens, then take some wd40 (wonder in a can) and spray and wipe over the waxy haze. It will clean it up right away and lays down a silicone sheen that will give you that "waxed" look. Best bet though for metal flake is to find a buddy that has a body shop, tape everything up, sand prep and shoot some new gel over the flake - - I'm begging my dad to shoot mine for me. (he's a body man and a mechanic).

Tracy

Yes, a girl who grew up in her daddy's garage and knows a thing or two about stuff.

Oh, and who also knows how to back a trailer into the water correctly.

hi welcome.....sounds like we can use your thoughts around here.

dont wanna hi jack this thread.....but loose the metal flake ! its a real pita on glass boats !

 

[sea wolf]

Re: buff and wax

Just be sure and use marine grade wax - car wax will not cut it. You'll only end up with a boat that looks even worse than when you started after a day or two out in the sun. The wax will come up gray white and gross. IF that happens, then take some wd40 (wonder in a can) and spray and wipe over the waxy haze. It will clean it up right away and lays down a silicone sheen that will give you that "waxed" look. Best bet though for metal flake is to find a buddy that has a body shop, tape everything up, sand prep and shoot some new gel over the flake - - I'm begging my dad to shoot mine for me. (he's a body man and a mechanic).

Tracy

Yes, a girl who grew up in her daddy's garage and knows a thing or two about stuff.

Oh, and who also knows how to back a trailer into the water correctly.

Gee, I must have scrwed up all these years. I've been using auto wax on my boat for 15 yrs. With excellent results. Everything from Mcguires to Zymol. Know how I cleaned up the oxidation last year? Vaseline. And it worked. Rubbed it in with a pad, then wiped it off. I tried all the other stuff marketed for that purpose, most of which are a ripoff. Followed up with a coat of Turtle Wax. It still looks great, but I will wax it again like I do every year out of habit.

 

[rdnk_4_lf]

Re: buff and wax

thanks for all the comments but i think i have it down thanks to you guys thanks for the help nick

 

[wca_tim]

Re: buff and wax

The oxidized gel coat on the surface is porous and although it will absorb the waxes and oils in wax / polishes, they won't stay long because the gelcoat on the surface is oxidized and damaged by UV light (sun). The best thing to do (IF you have enough clear over the flake left) is to carefully wetsand the damaged surface gell off (try something like 600 or 1000 first then work up to 1500 or 2000, I had to start with 320 on my current mess and work back up) then buff it smooth with a compound that does not contain waxes or oils (I reeally like the aquabuff 2000, water soluble, worked great and cleaned up easily), and finish up with something like machine glaze of Filches. I'm also a big fan of 3m products and have used their heavy duty compound with good results also. USe a good buffer and pad at 2500 rpms or so and you won't be disappointed with the results. cover it with good marine wax (better UV protection for the fresh gelcoat exterior finish you've worked so hard for). and it can look like new. This is all assuming tat no one has clear coated it before with paint.

If there's not enough clear gel left over the flake, the best thing to do is clear coat it with awlgrip, imron or POR15 clear after a very careful prep... Those are all urethane based paints and after fully cured yield a very hard, very durable exterior coat with outstanding gloss, etc... If you're prep and degreasing are done right, they'll also give great adhesion... and they're a LOT less work the spraying gelcoat (this last part I can't say I've done... but after a lot of reading about putting gelcoat on with a gun and then sanding it to cmooth and buffing it out...)

usually the first method works wonders and can really wake up an old finish...