Building a fishing boat.

metalchewy

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First post of many to this thread. My friend and I picked up an 66 Texas maid aluminum boat. Rough shape. No windshield, steering, motor, and painted with latex house-paint with a brush.
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We plan to have an elevated platform up front with a pull out fishing chair, and four swivel seats in the back to be able to fish off it from any angle, and a fold down bench seat at the back for the grand-kids if they want to go.

So, basically a hull-up build from bow to stern.
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At the point of paint removal now. Difficult at best. Stripper takes it a little at a time. Angle grinder with sander seems to work, for the latex layer.
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A lot more work Togo before we flip it back over and start looking for leaks. We know there is one or two up front with some loose rivets.
 

metalchewy

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the boat is really narrow for a bow mounted casting deck.
The current plan for the platform, measurements we took, it will be 46 at the widest, 6-8 inches down from the top of the boat, and 42" towards the back of the boat, behind the front mini bow hood, for bow lights and possibly anchor. Will cut it in to the right side dash. Seat can be removed for visibility when at cruising speed. Live wells at the back of it, with a pull up cover that can be stepped on. Haven't drawn them out yet, will do after we get the main floor in it.

Figured that was big enough. Is that too small?
 
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airshot

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You mentioned having folks in the front and four seats in the center, then a bench seat in the stern......your boat is only going to to be rated for a max of 4 people, and not 6 or more... Having extra seats is fine, just don't have a person in each one at the same time....overloading is dangerous. How much HP are you hanging in the back ?
 

Scott Danforth

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Figured that was big enough. Is that too small?
it isnt the size of the casting deck, its the flare of the bow and how tippy the boat will be because it is so narrow. think of standing on a 5-gallon pail in a canoe.
 

metalchewy

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You mentioned having folks in the front and four seats in the center, then a bench seat in the stern......your boat is only going to to be rated for a max of 4 people, and not 6 or more... Having extra seats is fine, just don't have a person in each one at the same time....overloading is dangerous. How much HP are you hanging in the back ?
Thanks for the great advice. Fully agreed. I'm big on safety. Taken the coarse, and planning to get my boater's license added to my drivers license.

No more than 4 adults, or 3 and a couple grand kids (they are little). My buddy and I only have one other guy that may go fishing from time to time, so most of the time it will be "Two Old Guys In A Boat" which will be the name on the back. 🤣

The previous owner said he had a 20 on it, and it was small, said if he wasnt getting rid of it was going to at least a 40hp. We found a 50hp Force we pulled on Saturday with all cables and wiring with fuse box from bow to stern. It that should push the boat well.
 

metalchewy

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it isnt the size of the casting deck, its the flare of the bow and how tippy the boat will be because it is so narrow. think of standing on a 5-gallon pail in a canoe.
Do you recommend lowering it to about half height, 16" down?

I can stand on a 5-gal bucket in my canoe if i had to, but don't recommend it. Heheh
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Captain Caveman

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Do you recommend lowering it to about half height, 16" down?
Years ago I bought an old 12ft Starcraft that someone had similarly ginned up for fishing. It was HEAVY and came with a casting deck built on top of the front metal benches. I bought it in my late 30s and I still had great balance but found that the boat was EXTREMELY tippy for sitting or especially standing.

These boats just don't have enough beam to support decks. Once you get the exterior done, you could take it out into a local lake with a plywood plank and a supply of bricks (or similar stacking material) to adjust the height while out in the water. Set the plywood at the height you want for the deck and then see how tippy the boat feels. You can then remove bricks to lower the deck and see if that helps.

I removed the entire casting deck and just restored it to bench seats. I realized that Starcraft put benches in there for a reason. My Alumacraft casting deck is much more stable, so that's the only boat that I stand in.
 

metalchewy

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Years ago I bought an old 12ft Starcraft that someone had similarly ginned up for fishing. It was HEAVY and came with a casting deck built on top of the front metal benches. I bought it in my late 30s and I still had great balance but found that the boat was EXTREMELY tippy for sitting or especially standing.

These boats just don't have enough beam to support decks. Once you get the exterior done, you could take it out into a local lake with a plywood plank and a supply of bricks (or similar stacking material) to adjust the height while out in the water. Set the plywood at the height you want for the deck and then see how tippy the boat feels. You can then remove bricks to lower the deck and see if that helps.

I removed the entire casting deck and just restored it to bench seats. I realized that Starcraft put benches in there for a reason. My Alumacraft casting deck is much more stable, so that's the only boat that I stand in.
Good suggestion. After it's sealed and the main floor is in, will do just that. There's a small pond at cold creek we can pit it in.

Maybe a chair at floor level will be stable enough, if not, bench may be the better option.

I recommend a wider boat with a lot less flare to the bow
Point taken. Thank You.

After we get it together and moving, trading up to a wider, flatter hulled boat may be an option. The funds are low and working with what we have.

Putting a little each month into the boat fund now its drained and will see where we are at.
 

MikeSchinlaub

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You mentioned having folks in the front and four seats in the center, then a bench seat in the stern......your boat is only going to to be rated for a max of 4 people, and not 6 or more...
Is that including the extra weight from the deck and seat materials, full live well, and bigger engine?

Of course, it would have to be weighed after the work is done for an accurate estimate, I'm just wondering if he might be reducing the capacity to the point where it's not even usable.

I don't know how that stuff is determined.
 

metalchewy

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Is that including the extra weight from the deck and seat materials, full live well, and bigger engine?

Of course, it would have to be weighed after the work is done for an accurate estimate, I'm just wondering if he might be reducing the capacity to the point where it's not even usable.

I don't know how that stuff is determined.
Not gonna be putting 650lbs of wood into this boat over the weight of the original interior and options were. That would kinda defeat the purpose.

The 50hp force is around 15-20lbs heavier than the old 30HPs that would have come on the boat.
  • Bigger outboard drops the weight capacity to 650lbs
  • Add the weight loss from whatever flooring, well, windshield, dash, hood and seats, gas tank would have been in it originally to that
  • Subtract the new flooring and lighter seats and plastic wells, plastic gas tank
Not sure what the original flooring would have been in it that came in the models that had steering and seats, not the benched version was made out of, but that's all gone. Can't be much more than the 5 ply pressure treated pine sheets we'll be using.

Seats will likely be lighter.
Well will definitely be lighter.
Gas tank will be lighter
 

Scott Danforth

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The chemicals in pressure treated lumber eats aluminum unless you get the pricy KDAT

I would use ACX that has been treated with Old Timmers Formula (google it in iBoats) or marine plywood
 

metalchewy

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The chemicals in pressure treated lumber eats aluminum unless you get the pricy KDAT

I would use ACX that has been treated with Old Timmers Formula (google it in iBoats) or marine plywood
Thank You. I really appreciate the suggestions. Very enlightening...

Edited. Questions answered.
A couple questions.
Is that spar varnish, or
spar urethane? Or does it matter?

For the deck is heavier 3/4 inch ACX overkill? If we went 1/2", would we want to add cross ribbing?

Found here
Post in thread '1995 Grumman deep V 17' Model SP1784 replacing deck floor' https://forums.iboats.com/threads/1...1784-replacing-deck-floor.778288/post-5971821
 
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