Bunch of complete nooby questions...

smokeonthewater

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Dec 3, 2009
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9,838
Re: Bunch of complete nooby questions...

Oh and for 20' crocs I would need a 40' boat WITH a mounted 50 cal...... lol....... no thanks otherwise :D
 

Jungleboat

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Feb 7, 2010
Messages
78
Re: Bunch of complete nooby questions...

Hi,

No, there's no autolube or 'VRO', you have to manually add the oil, stir with a stick.

One of the things that makes me suspect he's putting in too much...

I can show a pic of the engine, both sides.. hang on...

Done.

Thanks for the link to the Bayliner roof job - though that's a much bigger and heavier boat, plus an ultra-light foam roof.

This is Borneo, things such as "Polyisocyanurate foam" do not exist in my world :)

(Well I'm sure they do, except every single shop will declare "Ah, finish already! No stock lah. Come next week?" I swear you could ask for a bright orange intercontinental ballistic warhead and you'd get the same answer...)

So, stringers. I'm guessing this means long thin bits of wood? In the hull?

How, when the guy turns up on Friday, would someone like me check or find out?

I have no tools. If I buy the boat I'll buy some tools but for now I'm toolless, if that's a word.

Can one give the sides of the hull a good thump and see what it sounds like?

You guys are getting me nervous now...


Floors I could replace, one big sheet of glassed plywood, expoy-glued in place. A floor.

Stringers sound more tricky, as I'm guessing they're deeply embedded within the hull itself? How would one go about replacing them without destroying the hull?

Is there some way I could reinforce the hull, without ripping it apart?

One bright spot from the Bayliner - he mentioned reducing the floor height. If I were to replace that front bow floor section I could lower it, a lot, which would save having to raise the roof.

Or not?





JB
 

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trendsetter240

Lieutenant
Joined
Jun 22, 2009
Messages
1,458
Re: Bunch of complete nooby questions...

Hey there, welcome to Iboats!

Seems you have a million questions; I'll try to answer a few that didn't get answered above.

The flat head spark plugs you are talking about are surface gap plugs. Nothing special and not rare in north america at least.

Power Trim and Tilt is a hydraulic or electric assist that tilts the motor back and forth on it's mounting. This can be used while planing to adjust the attitude of your hull and to reduce the drag of the motor in the water.

The alternative is manual trim/tilt in which case you can't make adjustments while underway. There will be a lock pin and set of holes that you use to set the trim the motor in a fixed position before you go. It also means lugging that 300lb beast up out of the water when you beach the boat. There should be a small shock absorbing piston on the manual tilt model that helps you to lower the motor from the fully tilted position.

Best of luck with your project. Like was said before in normal circumstances I wouldn't touch that boat with a 10ft pole. But in your case that may be your best bet.

You will need a source for all the fiberglass, resin, motor parts etc that you will require to repair and maintain that boat. Definitely should look into sourcing parts before buying the boat.

Cheers
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
Re: Bunch of complete nooby questions...

Yes, just read read and read the projects going on here in the resto section. Then you'll know exactly what stringers are and what it takes to replace them.
 

Jungleboat

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Feb 7, 2010
Messages
78
Re: Bunch of complete nooby questions...

Smoke, I am thinking of a canvas bimini top. The roof aspect is not really the issue, my main concern is the cabin is too small.

My ideal boat would have a cabin large enough to seat 4 people at a tiny table. This thing is more like 2 people sitting on the floor eating sandwiches.

As for the crocs, they're a major reason I want a reasonable sized boat, with high sides!

Round here you see complete families chugging along on what can only be described as a 15ft canoe, the boat weighed down so much you'll see them casually bailing out as they go...

With this around, no thanks:

"An adult male saltwater crocodile's weight is 600 to 1,000 kilograms (1,300?2,200 lb) and length is normally 4.1 to 5.5 metres (13?18 ft), though mature males can be 6 metres (20 ft) or more and weigh 1,300 kilograms (2,900 lb) or larger"
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saltwater_crocodile

:eek:



JB
 

Jungleboat

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Feb 7, 2010
Messages
78
Re: Bunch of complete nooby questions...

I see there's been some more replies, on previous page :)

Regarding compression testing, short of sticking my finger in the spark plug hole - no can do.

Just took a look at the linked thread. Wowsa.


:(
 

F14CRAZY

Ensign
Joined
Aug 12, 2008
Messages
945
Re: Bunch of complete nooby questions...

Last winter I replaced the deck and stringers in my 19' Bayliner cuddy cabin I/O.

l_60e153daefb7490b8d2dc37e5e0041e0.jpg


This is what the stringers look like (new) without fiberglass over them yet

l_400a6042d4b40b72cd8b7fdbb8280344.jpg


This is a shot for comparison of the old stringers

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=272749

Some of the pictures are missing in my thread because AOL canned their hosting service since then but I received A LOT of help from the board here, starting out as a n00b and tackling the job :)


The engine mount/transom on your vessel doesn't look good. As a general rule with outboards you should NOT be able to wiggle the outboard at all
 

smokeonthewater

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Joined
Dec 3, 2009
Messages
9,838
Re: Bunch of complete nooby questions...

well let's put it this way.... how much is this thing gonna cost you? could you afford to use it as a learning experience and buy another later on after lots of shopping..... Are there any marina's/boatyards that are capable of at least evaluating it for you..... This is one of those things that an experienced person could tell with 90% accuracy in 5 minutes but for an novice it is a guessing game...... I'd say 99% chance that that boat needs the entire floor cut out and all the stringers cut out aaaaand the transom wood cut out aaaannnnnndddddd all of it replaced and glassed in..... this would cost at least several hundred in supplies and maybe quite a bit more depending on the local cost of materials and the design of the boat....

It sounds to me that you have a choice of either being quite cavalier with your life or not buying a boat or getting into a MAJOR project...
 

Jungleboat

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Feb 7, 2010
Messages
78
Re: Bunch of complete nooby questions...

Thanks for the pics F14.

So the stringers go sideways as well as the length.. That's pretty much building a boat really...

Having said that, I was seriously contemplating the idea of doing just that, so at least with this thing I'd have a full-size template, a kind of 3D plan.

I think my biggest fear of trying to build my own boat was the thought of after months of work and expense, then finding the thing was on the squiff and unevenly shaped or something horrid. With this thing I could replace one section at a time until I have... the same boat... but less chance of it folding in half or something.

Mmm.

Occasionally I've hired a local boat, the canoe type. It was enough to convince me that I do indeed want a boat, but one with a decent cabin to get some breaks from the sun (canopy or not, we're right on the equator here - and humid). In some respects though this is still an experiement in actual ownership of a boat.

Cost wise, it's both dirt cheap and very expensive, depending on how you look at it. For income I'm a writer (you may have noticed!). I write sales copy, advertising. Typically I charge between $500 to $2000 per project. One $1000 project a month is plenty enough to keep me going due to the low living costs here.

The boat was advertised at 11,000 ringgit, which is $3200. That's way over-priced by US or UK standards. I'm from the UK and I know I could buy a boat like this, in vastly better condition, for about $1500. Heck I've seen some lovely little cabin cruisers going for 500 pounds, including trailer.

In that sense the price is extortion. On the other hand the best price I could find for shipping a cheap 2nd hand cabin boat from Australia, the UK or US is 10,000 pounds, or $16,000. That's just plain mad and out of the question.

Boats similar to this but in better condition go for around 30,000 ringgit, or around $8-9,000. They also tend to be bigger and not really trailerable.

So finding a trailerable cabin fiberglass boat that's within the max 22ft of storage space I have is ideal. Being "cheap" is even better.

The good news is we managed to knock him down to 8,000 ringgit, though that's still $2300 and crazy money for what it is.

Supply and demand, you want a wide-bodied cabin boat, with a monster engine (by local standards) it's pricey.

Even with the local boats there's very little choice. Total number of boats being advertised here? 4, including this one. This is the only place I can find boats for sale on a regular basis:

http://www.mudah.my/li?ca=9_s&th=1&q=boat&cg=1080&w=113

See the black "speedboat"? Looks a bit better, certainly a better trailer, 25,000 rinngit. And for all I know, has exactly the same problems.

You'll also spot the open canoe, without engine, for 10,000? Makes 8,000 for this thing look a bargain :)

He was advertising it for less, but without the engine. I was tempted but know engines are expensive. Then it came up for sale with the engine, which suggests he was reluctant to sell that engine. Good sign, true?

Income-wise it's about 2 month's income, so a big wedge but not a mortgage or anything.

I'm also raising my rates - typically a sales copywriter at my level charges $5,000 or so. I've been picking and choosing what work I'll take on and for low fees for the last few years. Time to crank it up a bit.

Currently my plan goes something like this - I know the guy is using the boat on a regular basis, so it does float etc.

First it needs a darn good clean, get all his crap out of there and scrub everything.

Get familar with it, figure out what all the wires and pipes and stuff are. All the wiring needs re-doing or at least re-routing and tidying up. Check all cables, possibly replace the battery.

Sand it all down, fill in the chips and scratches, primer and paint. Will be red again below the rub bar, everything on top white. At that point it will be a very pretty little boat.

Get a bimini top or build a light hard top and get a new trailer made.

At that point I was going to do the same to the interior, including fitting a bit of carpet, some wood trim, blinds, make it look nice... OR, hack the roof off, raise it a bit and extend the cabin back by a couple of feet, leaving a little dent for steering ( kind of semi-L shape).

Then the fancy stuff, GPS, fishfinder, radio etc.

Looks like before the cabin I'd have to cut the floors out and start rebuilding!

The good news is these stringers seem to be largish lumps along the bottom. I was thinking of long thin slats embedded within the fiberglass at the sides...


Presuming the wood is rotten, I should be able to slice the top off the fiberglass and scoop/chisel the wood out, then glass new sections in, right?

Long as it's deep cleaned I could re-use the sides of the fiberglass slots as patterns?

Then shedloads of glass and resin on top?

Doing that at the back of the boat doesn't sound too bad. Getting to the stringers at the front is going to be much harder.

Question - the live bait holders - do they extend right down to the bottom, ie the stringers are either side and attached to it, or would the stringers run below that?

It's a 'feature' but I also got the impression it was structural? I really don't fancy trying to cut that thing out...

OK, new plan:

Sand and paint, as wife insists on that if it's going to be sitting in our front garden.

Cut out cockpit floor behind bait wells - it needs replacing anyway as it's springy - and slice the top off a stringer. If it looks solid glass it back over and replace floor.

If it's wet and rotten, replace rear stringers, then replace floor.

Cut out a section of floor by that weird bulkhead thing, see if it goes right down to the hull base. If it does, use boat for a few months and see if boating is for me...

If that bulkhead doesn't go right down and it just hanging there to hold the floor up, remove floor, replace stringers. Replace floor but lower, to give more head-room and remove that bulkhead for extra space.

At this point I have a lovely little boat that I'm deeply familiar with.

If all goes well, use it while saving up for a newer engine or possible engine rebuild, which will probably cost as much as a new one.

Does that sound like a reasonable plan or am I missing something else?


Sorry for the long posts but there's no-one here I can ask such stuff...




JB
 

Jungleboat

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Feb 7, 2010
Messages
78
Re: Bunch of complete nooby questions...

Smoke:

Are there any marina's/boatyards that are capable of at least evaluating it for you.....

2 problems, first, not many such things, secondly I'd get "orang putih discount", which means they'd double any fees, declare the boat a wreck and insist I buy one of their yachts for only 160,000 rinngit...

I'd rather not humilate myself :)



JB
 

erikpn

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 23, 2009
Messages
325
Re: Bunch of complete nooby questions...

Your plans for cleaning/sanding, paint, accessories, etc that stuff is all pointless until you get the deck replaced and the stringers and transom replaced as necessary.

You wouldn't worry about the tidiness and paint job and number of tvs in your house when the foundation is crumbling and the house is well along the path to collapsing on top of you, right? The first thing to do shouldnt be any of that nonsense, it is to make the thing safe.

Besides, doing the transom and floors and stringers is a very messy process. You will have to cut the entire top off of the boat, all the way around it basically cutting the boat into 2 halves.

like this
DSCF1009-2.jpg


When you put it back together, you'd have to redo all that stuff anyways. Did you read through the restoration threads? You can't really plan for a functional 22' boat with a cabin for 2k dollars. But if you already have a good motor, you can make it happen for another few grand with work and dedication. You can do a lot of things that people will doubt if you have the time and dedication. Look at what serb did to his boat, the scarab on page 2 here.

But if it were me, I would buy a smaller boat that is closer to being solid and fish out of that.
 

Jungleboat

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Feb 7, 2010
Messages
78
Re: Bunch of complete nooby questions...

Well as I said:

Looks like before the cabin I'd have to cut the floors out and start rebuilding!

So are you saying there's no way I can do these stringer things without splitting the boat in two?

Somone mentioned there should be no movement at the transom. Both me and the owner were climbing in and out by stepping on it, I didn't notice any kind of wobble, seemed rock solid?

Heck it must be, it's holding an engine weighing around 300lbs and withstanding 90 horsepower pushing at it. If it were rotten or squishy I can't imagine it still being there?


JB
 

smokeonthewater

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Dec 3, 2009
Messages
9,838
Re: Bunch of complete nooby questions...

also keep this in mind..... when the hull has had enough you get no warning..... I had a friend sink a boat last summmer..... it was rotten and he was in denial..... he used it several times and then he noticed water on the floor..... It was under water within 20 minutes.... he was swimming with 20 lb carp tho instead of 20' crocs.... I managed to drag it out of the river for him (NOT easy btw)..... When we got it up we found that the hull had busted along a strake for about 5 feet...... when it broke he was running about 20 mph on under a foot of chop......

be careful and read ALOT.... good luck
 

Jungleboat

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Feb 7, 2010
Messages
78
Re: Bunch of complete nooby questions...

OK, new plan...

Have told the guy not to deliver on Friday, I'll drive up there on Saturday and take another look at it.

Will remove the plywood from the cabin floor, see what's underneath. I'm expecting it to be as springy as the rear.

Have found some guy who claims to be able to build boats and cabins. Will chase him up and found out how much it would cost for him to climb in and cut the floors out and then skim the fiberglass off the tops of the stringers.

If stringers are damp and rotten, gouge em out and slot new ones into place, then fiberglass over.

Replace floors.

Pain the thing myself to keep costs down.


Regarding transom I'll take a very good look at it but it seemed rock solid to me last time.

If the cost is reasonable for the stringers, get him to do transom at same time. If not, save up to do the transom later.

That gets me out on the water this year, early in the season, then I can see if the whole boating thing is for me (and the family).

If so, save up, replace transom and build new cabin, at which point I have my ideal boat, birds sing, flowers blossom etc.

If not, I'll have a pretty little boat, a heap of photos showing the boat has been restored and could sell it for around 40,000 ringgit ($11,000) with a warning the transom probably needs replacing.

So is that a workable plan?


JB
 

Jungleboat

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Feb 7, 2010
Messages
78
Re: Bunch of complete nooby questions...

Have read somewhere that one can check the transom by raising the motor then pulling/pushing the prop, to see if there's any movement?

Does that work?




JB
 

Jungleboat

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Feb 7, 2010
Messages
78
Re: Bunch of complete nooby questions...

Update - for those still interested...

Went up to see the boat again. I dragged out the plywood covering the front and cabin deck, then jumped up and down on the floor, as best I could in such a tight space.

Floor seemed rock solid.

Seller asked my wife what I was doing, she mentioned "stringers", at which point his face lit up and he assured her the transom and stringers were replaced by him. Apparantly he did them the same time he was fitting the live bait wells and fitting the "new" engine.

:)

So why the springy floor at the back? Seems he forgot to buy the wood for that so just fiberglassed over the back with some "wobbleboard". Never got around to doing it properly.

Do I believe him? Not sure - but looking on the inside there are clearly holes filled in from a previous engine. The front decking is very solid and tapping around the transom revealed no change in tone anywhere.

Tried rocking the engine and apart from some slight movement in the mountings themselves, the transom didn't blink.

The guy thought I was trying to lift the engine and showed it has power tilt - which was a bonus, I didn't think it has that. :D

I'm not entirely sure what the difference was but seems he asked the guy reconditioning the starter motor about starting manually, so now he "knows how". Presumably "stop flooding the thing with the little red knob and just raise the choke-or-whatever lever." Anyway, this time we were able to start it by hand.

I tried standing some distance away, to avoid the exhaust blat, couln't hear any unusual mechanical noises whatsoever. Just very loud.

When cutting the engine it instantly dies, no running on or other suggestions of low compression.

The bad news is it belched a huge cloud of blue smoke, which didn't faze the seller in the slightest. I still suspect he's adding too much oil to the fuel.

Good news - when I revved it a bit he looked very concerned and said you shouldn't do that out of the water. I *like* the fact he was more worried about the engine than getting the sale.

In complete contrast we also looked at the other one advertised in the same place, the bright red 'Vulcan'. That was a real pile of ****. Floor was rotten, worse than the one I'm getting (yes, I've decided). Wooden boards down the site were loose and rotten.

The pretty picture, up close wasn't so pretty. They'd painted it with a couple of spray cans. Including parts of the trailer. Incredibly, while painting the top half white, had managed to get white paint over the windscreen as well.

My impression was the boat was originally blue (the rotten side panels were blue). I strongly suspect that once removed from the trailer it will have blue stripes, in exactly the same design as the trailer!

Overall my impression was the 2 guys who joint-own it have used it for thrashing around at full throttle, with no care or consideration for the thing whatsoever. In contrast the mangy-looking boat I'm getting seems a more honest and genuine vessel, treated well by a dedicated fisherman, albeit with no regard for cosmetics.

As an acid-test I suggested he come fishing with me, show me some spots. I was watching very closely... no sign of fear or reluctance, which is a good sign :)

Have found somewhere that can build a new trailer, steel rather than alloy, though with alloy wheels, for somewhere between $520 to $820, depending on the boat.

Have found a local fishing club place where I can moor the thing for one ringgit (about 30 cents) a month! Big improvement over the $175 the first place I found wanted and on the same river, though about 6 km (about 4 miles) further up.

Some questions (you knew they were coming..)

That little auxillary mount looks a bit naff but seems very solid. As such I'm thinking of adding an extra little motor as a backup.

It's a deep V hull. What's the minimum HP needed to get this thing on the plane - or is it not worth it and just use the spare for displacement speeds? If so, what's the minimum HP it would need for max' displacement?

I've been offered a 25HP Johnson for cheap, but I suspect that's overkill for limping but not enough to get on plane? Could I just stick some little dinky 5HP thing on there, or something like 8HP? 10HP?

What IS the displacement speed for a 20ft by 7ft V hull anyway? I'm guessing around 6mph?

Second question - I notice the 90HP Johnson seems pretty low, ie the prop is low down in the water, below the bottom of the V. Is that normal and how it's meant to be - or is it perhaps too long for this boat?

I'm just thinking if I hit a submerged log or rock or something I'll be hitting it with the prop/transom first, which seems a bit weird to me?

Nor do I fancy ploughing into a sandbank and not knowing about it until the prop digs in. Is the prop supposed to be behind or below the boat? Looking at the local sampans they seem to be behind but they're a completely different design.


:)

Thanks for any help forthcoming..



JB
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
Re: Bunch of complete nooby questions...

I would recommend an axillary motor. Those mounting brackets are often limited to 15HP. A 15 is what I would recommend getting as the 15s from most manufactures are the same weight as their 10s so you get the additional HP without much weight sacrifice. No you won't be able to plane it. A 15 should run it great at displacement speeds.

Looking back at your original pictures, I don't think your main motor hangs too low in the water and if it does it's only my a few inches. We'd need a photo taken around the level of the keel with the motor down to tell for sure. The plate above the prop should be even with to an inch of so above the keel.
 

Jungleboat

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Feb 7, 2010
Messages
78
Re: Bunch of complete nooby questions...

Ok, thank you. I have uploaded a pic, the plate I think you mean does indeed appear to be directly in line with the bottom of the V.

The back around the mini-mount has evidently seen some work - again with no regard to cosmetics!

I tried heaving and hauling on it, couldn't budge it at all. Looks like unprotected wood though, so I doubt it will last for long.

Appears displacement speed is 1.3 x square root of length, in knots? So 5.8 knots or 6.6mph? Or just over 10 kph.

Mmm, the distance from the little boat club to the area I intend fishing is about 16 kilometers, so just over an hour and a half at displacement speed, if that formula is correct. That's fast enough for me, I'm just wondering about the speed of the tide... At peak flow, probably about the same.

Well that's worse-case scenario (engine breakdown at same time as max tidal flow) and either way, 15 horses pushing me home is a lot better than trying to paddle a 20 foot cruiser, right?

That mount sticks out a lot. Not sure why? I can see it would be hard to reach the twistgrip of a little outboard, sitting way out there. Have to bolt a pole on the end of it or something...

One thing I'm curious about - I'm told it's an ex-government boat, and it has "Escort" written on it. Is that a name or designation? :)


Well if all goes well it should be delivered, complete with starter motor, this weekend. I'm half expecting the starter to not be ready yet (Chinese new year here, half the population is Chinese) and also somewhat concerned that rusty old trailer won't make the journey.

Hopefully though, this weekend I get my very first boat!


:D


Cheers for the help. I'm sure I'll be back..




JB
 

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smokeonthewater

Fleet Admiral
Joined
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Messages
9,838
Re: Bunch of complete nooby questions...

I wouldn't put much engine on the aux mount as the length of it gives it ALOT of leverage on the transom.... It sounds like you may have yourself an ok rig..... As for the aux eng and the tide..... I'd carry some food (mre's) and water so if your main eng fails and the tide is against you you can use the aux to get to the side and tie up to wait out the tide (in a tree where the crocs can't get ya lol) and head in when it changes.

Youu can certainly see the laws of supply and demand..... that much money for an old boat which would be nearly free elsewhere but $.30 a month for moorage...... hmmmmmm I wonder if I could lash about a thousand old boats together in a big raft and tow em there....lol
good luck with your new vessel
 
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