buying used gear case

[Mike Robinson]

Hello all

I have a '94 Johnson 150, model #J150WTXERC.

When ever I change the oil (which is fairly often) I have water and metal flakes in the used oil. Obviously it needs servicing, but I plan to repower next winter so I am trying to be as frugal as is reasonably possible. I am considering buying a used gearbox.

The cheapest I have found is $250, it's off an "1992 [120HP] big block V4 commercial motor large shaft" according to the fellow who has it for sale. He seems to think it will work for me but I am skeptical, I asked him for the model number of the outboard it came from but he doesn't have that info. I know that the part number for my gearcase is 043578 from looking at BRP's website and ther are a few other numbers there for compatable units.

Is the part number stamped on the lower unit somewhere?

What do you guys think? Am I taking a big chance buying a used gear box?

Your advise is welcome here.

Thanks

 

[Mike Robinson]

Re: buying used gear case

Another question

There's a shop who has a gear box that they say will fit my outboard that they have not rebuilt but they have "checked it out". They want almost $2000.00 plus the core!

So how do you "check out" a gear box?

 

[ezeke]

Re: buying used gear case

You can get a brand new aftermarket replacement for $795 : http://www.sterndrive.cc/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=JohnsonEvinrudeLowerUnit


The 1992 large case 120HP unit that you mentioned above has a different gear ratio than yours so you have to deal with that issue; It looks just like yours but is not.

 

[SparkieBoat]

Re: buying used gear case

you defiantly want to go with a v-6 foot. As Ezek said different gear ratio, plus I believe the V-6 uses heaver duty parts. You said your foot had some metal shavings..is it still working ok?? If it is still working fine I would keep using it. And Ezek wouldn't he need the SE306 not the 300 series? How do those gearcases hold up??

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: buying used gear case

metal flakes are not unusual, chunks are. do you use new washers on the drain and vent plug, everytime you remove them? they are a one time use item, you need new everytime. #1 place water enters the lower unit.

 

[Faztbullet]

Re: buying used gear case

I have not had any problems with any of their units so far, I've been told the OMC unit has the same "big gears" as the GLM units and its the same unit that iBoats sells...

 

[ezeke]

Re: buying used gear case

you defiantly want to go with a v-6 foot. As Ezek said different gear ratio, plus I believe the V-6 uses heaver duty parts. You said your foot had some metal shavings..is it still working ok?? If it is still working fine I would keep using it. And Ezek wouldn't he need the SE306 not the 300 series? How do those gearcases hold up??

The link is for the 306. He would need his existing upper driveshaft (from 2 part) and shift rod.

 

[Mike Robinson]

Re: buying used gear case

Ok Guys thanks.

I've ruled out the V4 gear box.

I haven't replaced the washers every oil change, but it doesn't seem to make any difference when I do.

I'm a little nervous because we use the boat to fish off the west coast of our islands (open Pacific) and it's about an hour run to get there through Skidegate narrows (about 20 nautical miles). I do have kicker though, but I can only do 5 knots with it.

I want to replace the outboard with something more fuel efficient soon, hopefully next winter. Maybe I'll just continue to do frequent oil changes and take my chances.

Thanks for your input.

I've considered bying an aftermarket one but i live in Canada so I'm not sure about shipping and customs charges but i will look into that.

I found another guy who has one for $1000. Is there any way to check it's condition without pulling it apart? Other than checking the oil.

What about the part number? Is it stamped on the gear box anywhere?

Thanks.

 

[ezeke]

Re: buying used gear case

The 1994 motor's gearcase has a two-part drive shaft and yours is an X model so it has an extra long drive shaft. It would be a lot easier if you find a compatible drive with the two part shaft so that you don't have to worry about the driveshaft because you can just use the one you have.

The next thing would be to have the unit pressure tested and vacuum tested so that you can be sure that it is not going to leak.

You can visually examine the anode on the bearing carrier to be sure that it is in excellent condition.

You should test the prop shaft to assure that it is not bent.

Of course, you will want to determine that the unit will shift smoothly.