Buying used Outboards

sunaj

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 25, 2007
Messages
109
A lot of backyard boaters buy used engines, and I am wondering what some of the pros think about certain models and years, those that they recomend and those you might want to avoid, whether it was just a bad model or if parts can't be had anymore, thanks:)
 

noelm

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 8, 2005
Messages
761
Re: Buying used Outboards

geees that's a pretty broad question there! lots of people will have models they love, but others hate, you will never get a straight out yes/no on almost any brand or HP model, you will get a generalisation with people saying "stay away from Fichts" but that is not entirely true, just an "urban myth" some will tell you to disconnect any auto oil systems, also another silly move, so overall, you will not get the answer you want.
 

JB

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Mar 25, 2001
Messages
45,907
Re: Buying used Outboards

That is too broad a question for a brief answer, Sunaj.

My first rule is avoid all but major brands.

My second rule is avoid all but JohnnyRudes. One exception is Suzuki 4 strokes that were also sold as JohnnyRudes. This is an emotional basis that has no logical explanation.

My third rule is expect to do some work on it to make it right.

My fourth rule is avoid FICHT engines made before 2001, Chrysler and Force engines. Again, prejudice.

If you can be more specific about what sort of engine. . . size and age. . .you have in mind I can be more specific about the great engines that fit that category.
 

sunaj

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 25, 2007
Messages
109
Re: Buying used Outboards

OK thanks, I guess it is a bit general, one of the reasons I asked is a recent purchase of an Evinrude 1972 100 hp that someone on the forum said was an electric shift (like it was the plague) and good luck finding a mechanic to work on it, thanks, Ill be back with more specific kweshuns:)
 

tashasdaddy

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Nov 11, 2005
Messages
51,019
Re: Buying used Outboards

i have had several hydro electric shifts. presently one as a donor motor, as it has bad lower unit solenoids, which are NLA.

BUYING A USED MOTOR

overall condition, condition of the place you are buying it from, usually tells you how they care for things. compression 100 + psi, and within 10% of each other, good strong blue spark, no water in the lower unit oil. look for discolored paint, (sign of over heat at
one time, also scarred up bolts, as why. have them start it. if they fail to put it in a barrell or tank, or on muffs, or in the water, to start it they don't know what they are doing. best yet is to take it for a 30 min to 1 hour test run. also if remote controlled motor, the controls should come with it.



Hydro Electric Shift)
(J. Reeves)

The shifting setup of the lower unit is what's called a "Hydro Electric Shift", which is quite complex consisting of voltage being applied to solenoids in the lower unit which in turn change oil passages via a oil pump that supplies various pressure on a spring loaded shifter dog. The wires leading to the lower unit (at the powerhead) are "Green" and "Blue". The engine must be running or cranking over in order to shift out of forward gear.

You CAN NOT use HI VIS lube in that lower unit. You MUST USE what OMC calls "Premium Blend" lube, commonly called "Type C". (A thinner lube)

In neutral, you need 12v to the "Green" wire.
In reverse, you need 12v to both wires, the "Green" one and the "Blue" one.
In forward, there should be no voltage to either wire. (The spring loaded shifter dog forces the unit into forward gear)

To check the lower unit for proper shifting to make sure you have no trouble there, remove the spark plugs to avoid problems and to allow a higher cranking speed.

This next step eliminates the actual shift switch in case problems may exist there.... Disconnect the blue & green wires at the knife connectors (the rubber insulated boots) leading to the lower unit at the powerhead, then using jumpers, take voltage direct from the starter solenoid to apply voltage to the "Green" wire for neutral, then both wires 'Green" & "Blue" for reverse (Remember the engine must be cranking over in order to shift).
With no voltage applied, the unit should be in forward. No need for a ground jumper... the lower unit's already grounded. You may crank the engine with the key switch or by energizing the starter solenoid with a jumper wire.
 
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