Calibrating SC1000 guage after repower

[Nzdrew]

Hi all. Just repowered my boat with a used Optimax 175 pro xs with Smartcraft gauges. I have attached the existing fuel sender to the gauges but it says I have 120 litres when I just filled the 165 litre tank. I have followed the manual and done a default calibration because its a nightmare emptying the tank and doing it that way. Is there another way? Cheers, Drew

 

[alldodge]

See post 6 in thread below
http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/anyone-calibrate-their-fuel-gauge-in-smartcraft.72186/

 

[QBhoy]

Yeah. There are a few ways. You can either calibrate it by filling the tank in increments and entering at each stage of level until it’s full...or easier is to tell it what your tank capacity is and it works it out from there. All in the calibration menu. If you are struggling, let me know and I’ll send you a video when I’m at the boat this week. I’ll go into the menus and show you.

 

[Nzdrew]

That would be great. I told it how big the tank was, 165 litres, then I filled the tank and the gauge showed 135 litres so I’m not sure how to tell it that there’s 30 litres missing...

 

[QBhoy]

That would be great. I told it how big the tank was, 165 litres, then I filled the tank and the gauge showed 135 litres so I’m not sure how to tell it that there’s 30 litres missing...

Did you tell it what shape the tank was ? There is an option for that too.

 

[Nzdrew]

Did you tell it what shape the tank was ? There is an option for that too.

The only option I could find was if it was inverted. It’s a standard rectangular box.

 

[dingbat]

Did you by chance have fuel in the tank before you filled it?

Calibrating the system simply assigns a ohm reading to a fuel level
0 ohms = empty tank..........1/2 tank = 120 ohms.....240 ohms = full tank, etc.

From there, entering fuel capacity determines resolution: 240 ohms = 165 litre. Effectively, 1.454 ohms per litre

If you had 30 litres of fuel in the tank when it was "zeroed", your "empty" reading would be 43.62 ohms and you added (135 litre) 196.29 ohms of fuel.
Full = 135 litres

 

[Nzdrew]

Nailed i

Did you by chance have fuel in the tank before you filled it?

Calibrating the system simply assigns a ohm reading to a fuel level
0 ohms = empty tank..........1/2 tank = 120 ohms.....240 ohms = full tank, etc.

From there, entering fuel capacity determines resolution: 240 ohms = 165 litre. Effectively, 1.454 ohms per litre

If you had 30 litres of fuel in the tank when it was "zeroed", your "empty" reading would be 43.62 ohms and you added (135 litre) 196.29 ohms of fuel.
Full = 135 litres

Did you by chance have fuel in the tank before you filled it?

Calibrating the system simply assigns a ohm reading to a fuel level
0 ohms = empty tank..........1/2 tank = 120 ohms.....240 ohms = full tank, etc.

From there, entering fuel capacity determines resolution: 240 ohms = 165 litre. Effectively, 1.454 ohms per litre

If you had 30 litres of fuel in the tank when it was "zeroed", your "empty" reading would be 43.62 ohms and you added (135 litre) 196.29 ohms of fuel.
Full = 135 litres

Nail it. I did! How do I “undo” that?

 

[dingbat]

Nailed i


Nail it. I did! How do I “undo” that?

According to the manual you either start calibration with an empty tanks or do nothing and use it in linear mode.

Not sure if it will let you, but try to do a partial 3/4 tank calibration when you get down to 3/4 of a tank. See what happens

Otherwise, you're stuck waiting until your empty and do the calibration process over again as you add fuel.

 

[Nzdrew]

According to the manual you either start calibration with an empty tanks or do nothing and use it in linear mode.

Not sure if it will let you, but try to do a partial 3/4 tank calibration when you get down to 3/4 of a tank. See what happens

Otherwise, you're stuck waiting until your empty and do the calibration process over again as you add fuel.

Hmmm. With a built in fuel tank I’m not happy to run it dry. I’ll call the dealership and ask them. In a repower situation like mine I’d imagine that plenty of people would still have gas in the tank. There must be another way! I’ll call the dealership...

 

[alldodge]

Calibrating the system simply assigns a ohm reading to a fuel level
0 ohms = empty tank..........1/2 tank = 120 ohms.....240 ohms = full tank, etc.

Ding, you sure about that?
North American is 240 ohms empty (or cold) and 33 ohms full (or hot)

 

[dingbat]

Ding, you sure about that?
North American is 240 ohms empty (or cold) and 33 ohms full (or hot)

The range of the gauge doesn't matter since your indirectly defining a range of values (empty = x ohms), (full = x ohms) and the capacity as part of the configuration.

Simple math from that point

 

[QBhoy]

Guys. On my sc1000 gauges, without doubt, if I tell it what size my tank is...then end calibration stage...all gauges are powered down then up again and with adjusted correct values. I could change the tank capacity to whatever I like and the linear signal from the tank and sc1000 brain just works it out from there, to what it assumes would be correct, given the level and the size of tank it thinks there is. If it’s the same gauges as mine, it doesn’t matter what you have in the tank before doing this. It works it all out. Assuming you have the smart craft fuel sender connected up, as I do.

 

[QBhoy]

Did you by chance have fuel in the tank before you filled it?

Calibrating the system simply assigns a ohm reading to a fuel level
0 ohms = empty tank..........1/2 tank = 120 ohms.....240 ohms = full tank, etc.

From there, entering fuel capacity determines resolution: 240 ohms = 165 litre. Effectively, 1.454 ohms per litre

If you had 30 litres of fuel in the tank when it was "zeroed", your "empty" reading would be 43.62 ohms and you added (135 litre) 196.29 ohms of fuel.
Full = 135 litres

Hi ding. It doesn’t really get zeroed. It’s just a calculation using the sender level and it’s assumed tank capacity. If it’s the same as mine, I’m sure. If the fuel sender isn’t connected or used for this gauge...then you need to tell the gauge how much fuel you’ve put in...and the ecu from the motor determines the assumed fuel use and remaining capacity. That’s the two types I’m aware if. One that actually uses the tank reading...and one that uses engine data (assumed given amount of fuel the engine is putting through injectors) and a countdown from a given total entered by the user..

almost sure that’s how they work.

 

[dingbat]

I could change the tank capacity to whatever I like and the linear signal from the tank and sc1000 brain just works it out from there.

Yes, it will recalculate assuming you captured the “range” of the sender correctly to begin with.

I believe he started the multiple-point calibration before filling the tank and the computer captured this 35 litre value as empty.

Switching over to linear mode would solve the problem until you got back to 35 liters which it would call empty.

Need to run the 35 litre out to get a true “range” then start the multi-point over again.

 

[dingbat]

Hi ding. It doesn’t really get zeroed. It’s just a calculation using the sender level and it’s assumed tank capacity. If it’s the same as mine, I’m sure. If the fuel sender isn’t connected or used for this gauge...then you need to tell the gauge how much fuel you’ve put in...and the ecu from the motor determines the assumed fuel use and remaining capacity. That’s the two types I’m aware if. One that actually uses the tank reading...and one that uses engine data (assumed given amount of fuel the engine is putting through injectors) and a countdown from a given total entered by the user..

almost sure that’s how they work.

I can see doing distance to empty from fuel consumption, mine does that as well, but what is the point of entering multiple fuel levels if your running linear calculations?

On mine, you can build a correction curve to make the gauge (digital) read correctly

 

[QBhoy]

I can see doing distance to empty from fuel consumption, mine does that as well, but what is the point of entering multiple fuel levels if your running linear calculations?

On mine, you can build a correction curve to make the gauge (digital) read correctly

I suppose what I meant was that some of these gauges aren’t connected to the fuel sender at all. Mine is on one boat. And on the other it just relies on what i tell it and it does a count down from what the engine uses to give me a “fuel remaining” reading. If you get me. Also on lime with the fuel sender connected...I am certain that it doesn’t matter what’s in the tank before or after calibration. It’s just works it out from the size of the tank I tell it. Only know this because there is some doubt as to what my tank actually holds. So I’ve tried a few likely sizes to see what makes more sense with the other readings.