Can this still be repaired with a "Gel Coat Repair" kit

[rokrau]

Hello all.
I am a new boater and was out on my first long weekend. Right after launching at the ramp I lowered the drive too much and hit the ground and bend the prop. This morning my wife pointed out that I did this to the hull...

And:


Can this be repaired with a "Gel Coat Repair" kit? Or does it look like the hull material is damaged? How do I tell how bad this is?

Also, if you'd take a look at my prop:

and tell me whether it is likely I did some serious damage to the stern drive I'd really appreciate your helpful comments.

I know I need a new prop allright but I am really worried I have done some further damage...

Thanks a lot!
Roland

 

[WAVENBYE2]

Re: Can this still be repaired with a "Gel Coat Repair" kit

Marinetex and a new/used prop, keep the prop for a spare if you already don't have one. How hard was the hit with the prop? and hows the skeg?

 

[bekosh]

Re: Can this still be repaired with a "Gel Coat Repair" kit

Hello all.
Can this be repaired with a "Gel Coat Repair" kit? Or does it look like the hull material is damaged? How do I tell how bad this is?

and tell me whether it is likely I did some serious damage to the stern drive I'd really appreciate your helpful comments.

I know I need a new prop allright but I am really worried I have done some further damage...

Thanks a lot!
Roland

I've repaired alot worse than that with a Gel Repair kit. It's white gel so that's a piece of cake to color match. For the how bad, not very that looks like a chip. It's into the underlying fiberglass so needs to be fixed or it can start absorbing water but it's not anything to panic over.
BAD would be crushed in with spiderweb cracks.

The prop should be repairable and I really doubt you did any damage to the drive. If you want to buy a new prop go ahead. Then get the dinged one repaired so you have a spare.

 

[rokrau]

Re: Can this still be repaired with a "Gel Coat Repair" kit

Marinetex and a new/used prop, keep the prop for a spare if you already don't have one. How hard was the hit with the prop? and hows the skeg?

The skeg being the straight fin going south from the prop housing? It is straight - i.e. not bend - from what I can see but has a little (1-1.5cm) "chip" on the left side in towards the middle, I remember that that might have been there before but I'm not sure that I am just lying to myself.

I'll order a new prop today, should I go SS or get another cheaper one since I am such a "boating wizzard"

Thanks
Roland

 

[BF]

Re: Can this still be repaired with a "Gel Coat Repair" kit

a shop specializing in prop repair would have yours as good as new for much cheaper than buying a new one. My "guy" would charge $30-40. That's one of the advantages of aluminum, it's cheap to fix and gets bent/broken, usually before internals. If you are set on buying another prop, I'd get alum for that reason... It's also a chance for you to get a different pitch if you would gain performance. For example, if the prop you have now is the correct overall pitch for cruising etc, you might consider going down in pitch for a 2nd prop so that you have a "ski prop" which you could switch to if you were going to do a lot of pulling for watersports.... but you just don't want to over-rev the engine at WOT. Even if you buy another, get the one you have now fixed so it's not out of balance if you use it.

 

[RWilson2526]

Re: Can this still be repaired with a "Gel Coat Repair" kit

if you are still new to boating I would stay with Aluminum prop....it will give when you hit a rock ....ss being much harder will greatly increase your chances of damaging your outdrive if you hit something.

 

[rokrau]

Re: Can this still be repaired with a "Gel Coat Repair" kit

For example, if the prop you have now is the correct overall pitch for cruising etc, you might consider going down in pitch for a 2nd prop so that you have a "ski prop" which you could switch to if you were going to do a lot of pulling for watersports.... but you just don't want to over-rev the engine at WOT.

That's a great idea!
I was getting around 4500 RPM at WOT before I did this to the prop but the prop was already a bit beaten up when I first bought the boat. I checked on the engine and there it says: 4200-4600 RPM @ WOT. Dans propellor tool recommends a pitch of 17 for skiing and 19 for cruising but that might be a bit off given the current prop has a 23 pitch?

Anyway, time to find a local "prop guy".

Thanks for the advice
Roland

 

[rokrau]

Re: Can this still be repaired with a "Gel Coat Repair" kit

So - I got myself some Marine-Tex and "fixed it"

Here are some random notes:

1. Use good Latex gloves - the cheap ones tear
2. I bought the 14oz package, I needed 1.5oz. I guess that still wont be a reason to make more holes in the boat
3. The wooden mix sticks are no substitute for plastic squeegees.
4. Enough is enough, I've got to learn when to leave it alone. This is a lot like dry-walling. I always think I can make it a little smoother, the screw it up, then work another 10 minutes to get is almost as good as I had it the first time, then repeat.

Here are some pictures in case anyone is interested....

Area sanded and slightly tapered with 100g sand paper.

Bandaged up:

and:

Looking at these pics now I think I will have make another pass at sanding this out and maybe getting the edge a little sharper.

Conclusion: "Practice is everything"

 

[lkbum]

Re: Can this still be repaired with a "Gel Coat Repair" kit

Wow, that's a lot of material for a small ding. First, on the prop, depending on vintage, most "newer" props (mine's a 2001) have a plastic internal piece in the hub that will shear when you hit something (this protects the drive). Pull your prop and see is you have a hard polymer sleeve. Second, and you probably already know this (based on your sheet rock comment), add a tiny bit of filler on the gouge. Let it dry, then repeat. Keep the filler to a minimum. It'll be much neater and easier to finish.

 

[rokrau]

Re: Can this still be repaired with a "Gel Coat Repair" kit

Wow, that's a lot of material for a small ding. First, on the prop, depending on vintage, most "newer" props (mine's a 2001) have a plastic internal piece in the hub that will shear when you hit something (this protects the drive). Pull your prop and see is you have a hard polymer sleeve. Second, and you probably already know this (based on your sheet rock comment), add a tiny bit of filler on the gouge. Let it dry, then repeat. Keep the filler to a minimum. It'll be much neater and easier to finish.

Yep - I made quite a mess out of the little ding :redface: - I'll be sanding it down tomorrow and that will my punishment for that... Seems I always learn things the hard way.