cannot remove my old 1982 Johnson 90 hp v4 carburetor - got stuck - need help

[oldboat1]

not sure. Will guess a difference in jetting might be an operating issue, but presumably doing OK before the leaking started (the rich mix, imo).

 

[Fed]

BTW, this is pretty much wrong.

Now, I know (1) electric choke it 5-10 times (2) squuze the fuel primer bulb until firm (3) push the throttle level to high (forward) by lifting the lever on the remote control,(4) press in and hold the key for a few seconds to crank the motor.

(1) squeeze the fuel primer bulb until firm

(2) push the throttle level to high (forward) by lifting the lever on the remote control

(3) press in and hold in while turning key at the same time

 

[ib18]

BTW, this is pretty much wrong.


(1) squeeze the fuel primer bulb until firm

(2) push the throttle level to high (forward) by lifting the lever on the remote control

(3) press in and hold in while turning key at the same time

LOL - I can't always get the order correctly. No wonder I don't always start my motor in the first crank. Thanks for correcting me.

 

[Chinewalker]

The carbs need to be the same. Don't go by the tags - go by what's on the carb body and what jets you've got. The carb body should have the venturi size cast into the face. And, no, having 115 carbs on your 90 will NOT make it a 115. The 115 has much larger intake and exhaust ports. Actually, putting 115 carbs on a 90 without changing anything else will likely make the motor run poorly due to over fueling.

 

[ib18]

The carbs need to be the same. Don't go by the tags - go by what's on the carb body and what jets you've got. The carb body should have the venturi size cast into the face. And, no, having 115 carbs on your 90 will NOT make it a 115. The 115 has much larger intake and exhaust ports. Actually, putting 115 carbs on a 90 without changing anything else will likely make the motor run poorly due to over fueling.

Uh, mine is a 1982 very old 2 cycle model - J90MLCNB. I thought the older Johnson and Evinrude were made with the same or almost similar manifold to save. I was looking on eBay for carb and many stated their carbs are good for 90, 115 even 140? Maybe the efficiency is not noticeable when you put the 115 carbs on 90 motor for example. My Johnson 90 can go up to 30 miles an hour pretty quickly and never tried anything beyond that. I have a 1974 17-foot wellcraft trip-hull airslot 165 sport. My motor can go about 2-3 miles per gallon. It differs when I go up river or down river. never really tested the true mileage of my motor.

 

[ib18]

The carbs need to be the same. Don't go by the tags - go by what's on the carb body and what jets you've got. The carb body should have the venturi size cast into the face. And, no, having 115 carbs on your 90 will NOT make it a 115. The 115 has much larger intake and exhaust ports. Actually, putting 115 carbs on a 90 without changing anything else will likely make the motor run poorly due to over fueling.

ok, here is a picture of what is actually on my carburetor - 327889 D1 - ok what does it mean? is it for 90 hp or 115 hp or 150 hp? thanks

 

[interalian]

Uh, mine is a 1982 very old 2 cycle model - J90MLCNB. I thought the older Johnson and Evinrude were made with the same or almost similar manifold to save. I was looking on eBay for carb and many stated their carbs are good for 90, 115 even 140? Maybe the efficiency is not noticeable when you put the 115 carbs on 90 motor for example. My Johnson 90 can go up to 30 miles an hour pretty quickly and never tried anything beyond that. I have a 1974 17-foot wellcraft trip-hull airslot 165 sport. My motor can go about 2-3 miles per gallon. It differs when I go up river or down river. never really tested the true mileage of my motor.

Yes, the intake manifolds are the same across 90/115/140, although rubber intake stuffers are used in the 115/140 to reduce crankcase volume (some 90s had them - mine as an example). Blocks have the same bore. Differences for power come from porting (larger intake ports and exhaust ports) along with exhaust tuning for the 140. Certain years used higher compression as well, but pistons are common across the power options. The carbs have different venturi sizes for each HP rating and are jetted individually to work with the flow capacity of the system.

Simply bolting on a carb off a 115 will not work properly as is isn't balanced to the flow needs of the motor.

 

[ib18]

ok, back again. I installed the carbs without replacing needle valve or removing it from its seat. The carbs were still leaking so I am going to remove the carb again and find the leaking problem. Maybe buy rebuild kits and replace float bowl, needle valve, etc. What a silly DIY?

 

[ib18]

ok, back again. I installed the carbs without replacing needle valve or removing it from its seat. The carbs were still leaking so I am going to remove the carb again and find the leaking problem. Maybe buy rebuild kits and replace float bowl, needle valve, etc. What a silly DIY?

A big thanks to YOU all who responded to my OLD Johnson 90 hp (1982-2017) carburetors leaking fuel problem and boat bogging down in water. I did the following things with your help to get the BIG OLD outboard kicking and running again.

1. Added an air silencer gasket. Part #319771 - $4.95
2. Carburetor rebuild kit without Float Part #18-7046, #439076 (Replaced the worn out needle and seat and plastic o-ring etc. but float was ok) - $29
3. Replace a new fuel pump with XA Outboard Fuel Pump to stop motor bogging down in water $21.88
4. Replace cracking fuel elbow pipe (Part #0333407) that connects fuel pump to cylinders - $13.6

DIY mistake costs:
1. broke electric primer/choke connection leg, ordered choke Cover and gasket - $13
2. broke fuel pump leg after I rebuilt the fuel pump Part #393103 - $13
3. ordered 2 Manifold Gaskets $10.83
4. ordered 2 Carb to air silencer gaskets $5.99

Love the sound of the BIG OLD outboard kicking and running AGAIN. A music to my ears - take a listen here -

 

[Fed]

Did the new needle & seat stop the leak?

Motor could be cranking a little faster IMO.

I noticed during cranking what sounded like a high tension short to ground, tick, tick, tick, tick.
(Not the clunking sound of the primer solenoid)

You might want to track down that ticking noise, listen for it while cranking my hearing is not that good at 10,000 Miles away.

 

[ib18]

Did the new needle & seat stop the leak?

Motor could be cranking a little faster IMO.

I noticed during cranking what sounded like a high tension short to ground, tick, tick, tick, tick.
(Not the clunking sound of the primer solenoid)

You might want to track down that ticking noise, listen for it while cranking my hearing is not that good at 10,000 Miles away.

1. yes, fuel was not running down into the cowl pan like before when I was running the motor.
2. during cranking - the camera was placed on my back seat pedal stand and the ticking was from the shaking of the camera.

Thanks for listening. I didn't hear the tick tick sound when I ran the motor, but I did hear it when I played the youtube video.

 

[Fed]

I was wondering where the camera was mounted even the house was shaking.
Carry on mate.