Cant Bleed Brakes

[teamrevo]

Hello,

Just replaced the rotors/calipers/ and coupler on my trailer (Kodiak and Titan 60). I reused my reverse solenoid from the previous install.

When trying to get fluid in the system the coupler will give a couple pumps then just stop, not able to compress anymore. Am also not getting anything from the calipers. I have tried using gravity to feed the fluid down the lines, and tried a vacuum pump. But get nothing!

To sum up, coupler feels locked and unable to pump anymore. Bleeder valve open on caliper and no fluid.

Should the fluid flow from the coupler if I disconnect the hose or is it only actuated down the line?

Thanks
mike

 

[Mikeyboy]

Re: Cant Bleed Brakes

I would try disconnecting the line from the coupler and just bleeding the master cylinder. If that works that reconnect and try bleeding at the calipers. Let us know how that works.

 

[bowman316]

Re: Cant Bleed Brakes

when doing my truck brakes, I heard that if the master cylinder runs totally dry of fliud, (the tank under the hood) then you have to prime/bleed the master cylinder before it will be able to send fluid to the rest of the truck.

maybe is the same deal with the trailer brakes. But i know nothing about hydrolic trailer brakes.

 

[Thalasso]

Re: Cant Bleed Brakes

Hello,

Just replaced the rotors/calipers/ and coupler on my trailer (Kodiak and Titan 60). I reused my reverse solenoid from the previous install.

When trying to get fluid in the system the coupler will give a couple pumps then just stop, not able to compress anymore. Am also not getting anything from the calipers. I have tried using gravity to feed the fluid down the lines, and tried a vacuum pump. But get nothing!

To sum up, coupler feels locked and unable to pump anymore. Bleeder valve open on caliper and no fluid.

Should the fluid flow from the coupler if I disconnect the hose or is it only actuated down the line?

Thanks
mike

You have to bleed the master cyl first.

This comes right from the manual
Hook the safety chains together to form a loop. The loop should be centered below the actuator’s
coupler
3c. Place a sturdy board such as a 2 x 4 into the safety chain loop below the coupler. The board should be four feet long or more so it will extend well above the actuator. Position the board to press against the front end of the actuator’s coupler and use it to force the coupler case into the actuator’s outer housing. This pumps the brake fluid into the trailer braking system. Manually pull the coupler case back to fully extended position and repeat the process.
3d. When the air bubbling stops inside the master cylinder, install a bleeder hose on the bleeder screw of the first wheel cylinder to be bled. Start with the rear axle on tandem axle trailers. Submerge the other end of the hose in a glass container of brake fluid so that air bubbles can be observed. Open the bleeder screw one turn before pushing the coupler case in. When the coupler is pushed completely in, the bleeder screw should be closed to prevent air from being pulled back into the system. Air trapped in the brake lines will greatly reduce your braking efficiency. Repeat this process until no more bubbles are released with each stroke. Be sure to close the bleeder screw securely.

 

[Reel Kahuna]

Re: Cant Bleed Brakes

I agree with bleeding the M/C first, however it sounds like the reverse lockout is working as designed.
What you need to do is back your tow vehicle to the trailer, with the engine off and your parking brakes on, plug your trailer lights in, turn the key on and put it in reverse so that the 12v activates the reverse lockout. Then bleed your brakes..best to have two person, one pumping the M/C the other at the hub.

 

[teamrevo]

Re: Cant Bleed Brakes

Sorry of the delay... The MC was bled according to the manual. Ended p replacing all the lines and now it works.. Appears to have been a blockage or kink.

Thanks all