Capri 1750 Complete Restore :) & 9 Months to do it too!

[mickyryan]

on better built boats i have seen half inch however they had almost a half a inch of glass on top so not really sure if that's a good trade off or not lol I think most back yard builders go thinner on layups then most quality Factory work
, so the thicker wood is helpful .

 

[Redtruck12]

Or you can put in a nice shag carpet why you’re done

 

[dezmond]

Well decided on 1/2” for the deck. I will be laying 10oz cloth on the underside in 2 layers and probably the same on the topside so that will get me probably 5/8” when all said and done. Also since using epoxy and my wisest span is maybe 16-18” I should be ok.

Right? I hope?

 

[tpenfield]

You should be fine either way. The glass on the underside will stiffen the plywood.

 

[chevymaher]

Mine originally had 1/2 inch only csm on top nothing on bottom and it lasted 30 years. Deck being soft was not this boats problem. Black mulch and worms in the stringers but no a soft deck not so much.

If you use flotation foam under it. It will be solid as a rock.

 

[dezmond]

Awesome. That’s what I like to hear . Thanks guys. And yes I will be using foam. I figured 2lb as it was not for structure by the looks of how it was originally put in.

 

[dezmond]

Happy New Years Everyone...

Been a great weekend.. Got a fair bit done.. Had to finish my tabbing and lay the cloth in the bottom of the boat... Went really well. Layer of 17oz biax and 10oz cloth is all in now so the hull should be nice and strong and sealed!





Next I had to tackle where I plan to build and install my center console.. I grabbed a piece of 3/4" ply and coated with resin then on the bottom side 1 layer of 10oz cloth. Also made some supports from some 1x2 pine and soaked them in resin.



This was the first time I tried my hand at pouring the resin on and using a spreader to squish in the resin. WOW that was an easy job and man does it look good!!! No bubbles, flat and I am a happy camper

Soooooo next was the decking grabbed my template, used some of my plastic trim I had and made my nice curves, jigged it out and test fit about 10 times. Man that was a workout... In and out of the boat. You can't be perfect on your cuts or it won't fit! This is a old boat and I ground, sanded and cut away the old. You won't have a symmetrical shape that's for sure. A little cut here, sand there and then I was happy









Then I got permission from the Admiral to bring it downstairs in the laundry room (my tool room) so I could coat it and lay 2 layers of 10oz cloth on the underside... The boy came down and helped as well.. He learned something (I think) and had fun with dad.







Again only using spreaders and went really good.... Sure did stiffen it up as well...

Next was to PB the supports (cleats) in where my chases and center console will go.





They are now setting up.. I need to figure out where I should have the chases exit in the center console area decking. Middle? Left? Right side? Don't know... Then I will be able to cut my access holes in the deck and yes.... FINALLY..... Bed in my first section of decking... Happy Happy Happy

Thanks all.. I'll be back with more updates as I have lot's of time to be working out there this week....

Any advice or suggestions, greatly appreciated.

 

[kcassells]

So why are the cleats so low? Usually flush or gauged for level to stingers and bulkheads.
Nice learning the learning curves with EEEEPPPOOXXXYYY isn't it.
My deck is getting topped off w/1700.
Looking darn good says I!

 

[dezmond]

Reason the cleats are recessed is I am putting a piece of 3/4” inside that area as I am building the center console there and figured I will need some “beef” under my deck for seat, console and top supports.

My thinking is straight no?

 

[kcassells]

Ya it is I think. Will that be part of the center console. Meaning integral. So you are going to come up out of that area with some ply, then build/attach your center console to it. If that's it I like it.

 

[dezmond]

That’s the plan I hope .

 

[oldrem]

Looking good!

 

[dezmond]

Happy New Years Everyone

Been a good couple of days working on the boat...

Got the 3/4" Plywood PB'd in and ran my chases...















Took my time and test fit at least a dozen times to make sure everything fit properly. Went good

Then on to the first section of decking went down. I used PL for this one on the stringers and bulkheads and smeared a bunch on the 3/4" plywood. Drilled, filled with resin, and used stainless screws to hold it down.. This one was a little tricky because of the size so the wife came and helped out.





Then on to test fitting the gastank. Fit's good. I do have some space on each side and I'm not too sure what to do about this? Can I use something to help with the voids on each side?





Then more 17oz biax and 10oz cloth on the hull where the tank will be sitting. I know.. That's over doing it but I want to make sure it is 1. Sealed & B. Strong.







I have cut my next deck panel but need to wait for the glass to harden and dry before I start to crawl around in there again.. Hope to maybe have it installed by tomorrow afternoon. I plan to test fit then I will be adding 2 layers of 10oz to the underside before I install it.

I have about a 1" space from the top of the tank to the underside of the deck so I may install another 3/4" panel in there just to stiffen up the floor.

For the tank install, I hope I can use plastic strips glued to the underside of the tank with 5200 and then adhere it to the hull with either 5200 or 4200 (adhere meaning only the 5200 on the strips then glue that to the hull).

Thoughts??

Thanks all

 

[mickyryan]

for those gaps mix up some fiber,Cabosil and resin and fill in, make it like a paste so it sticks and dont sag .looks great so far!

 

[mickyryan]

tank if poly just use horse mat from tractor supply or rubber mat to line floor for tank to sit on and then secure it across top leaving room for it to grow or shrink , aluminum id seal tank with self etching primer then epoxy then use your 4200 idea but before putting down deck id shim it tight on sides to be sure no movement possible , dont use foam .

 

[AShipShow]

If you wanna stiffen up the floor and save weight, you could do something like I did on my floor and glass in a grid on the underside..
it worked really well and is WAY LIGHTER than another layer of ply.

https://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fetch?id=10608286&d=1531102553

 

[dezmond]

Cool idea mad props. Might be a good way to go.

 

[Scott Danforth]

dont forget the foam helps a lot with the floors

 

[AShipShow]

I didn't catch what thickness your floor is, but I did 1/2" MDO for my floor which is why I needed additional strength over the gas tank span, but if your using 5/8" or 3/4" you may be completely fine without anything else in that area.

 

[dezmond]

Ya using 1/2”. I may just use some 3/4” strips of plywood glued and glasses on the underside. Kinda like what you did.

Im sure the flotation foam will help a lot for sure.

I have my 2 coats of zinc chromate primer sprayed on the bottom and sides of the gas tank. Will wait till good and dry then coat with resin? After that I will install my plastic strips on the bottom and then I can install the tank. Now question. Since I am costing with epoxy resin, can I use some of that spray can foam on the sides to fill the gaps a bit between the stringers and tank? Since it is coated with resin, I figure the foam can’t do any damage to the tank correct?

Thanks all