carb, linkage, throttle question (with pic)

[j_martin]

Re: carb, linkage, throttle question (with pic)

Just looked over the thread.

Don't be surprized if the 50 volt rectifier you bought fails in short order. The voltage rating is the back voltage when the diode is turned off, and that voltage can easily hit 90 or 100 volts at high engine speeds. I'd use a 200 volt or better bridge rectifier.

Here's the one that'll work at Mouser (www.mouser.com)
512-GBPC2506

It's 25 amp, 400 volt. Costs $2.82.

There's about 400 parts that'll work, but the trick is 25 amp, 200 volt minimum.

hope it helps
John

 

[gonelong]

Re: carb, linkage, throttle question (with pic)

Don't be surprized if the 50 volt rectifier you bought fails in short order.
...
hope it helps
John

Thanks for the input, I'll keep a close eye on it. Filed away the website and part number. Might just order one to have it on hand for if/when my other fails or I cross+/- and fry it.

I have the boat in my garage and hope to get to the reverse lock next week. If I can get that set up I'll feel pretty good about taking her out. I'd still like to get a kill switch, tach, and possible water pressure gauge installed before I'll free really comfortable getting to far from the dock.

Here's hoping my cam is OK and I just need to adjust it.

GL

 

[gonelong]

Re: carb, linkage, throttle question (with pic)

I dropped my lower unit an inspected the Reverse Lock cam. It is a bit worn, but I think it should work. I work on adjusting the cam into a position I think it should work, move the lower unit back in place, and test. It moves the claws, but not far enough, might be because of the wear on the cam. I adjust the cam one place setting and try again. It locks in reverse **and** neutral.

Is that correct? I see conflicting statements about whether it should be locked in neutral.

It is unlocked in forward gear. Either way, I don't see me changing it as its the only position it seems it will work.

Also, I see a statement when searching the forums that dry-shifting into reverse will eventually make you sorry. Can someone give me a short-hand explanation of why it would be ok to dry-shift into forward, but not reverse? In order to test my reverse lock, I dry shifted into reverse 2-3 times, didn't really see a way around that.

Going to take the old lady out (1977 Vivian VIP, H15 DC) for a good test spin soon. She has been out to fish a few times, but I have not run the Merc on her yet this year, just the trolling motor.

Next up, kill switch and tach.

GL

 

[gonelong]

Re: carb, linkage, throttle question (with pic)

Ran the boat at WOT for 10 minutes or so last weekend. By GPS, got 22.5 MPH out of it on a 15'6" Fiberglass Tri-hull that I am certain is not waterlogged. Does this seem reasonable? Ran the motor around for an hour, no issues at all. The Mrs and Jr are used to riding around on the pontoon and enjoyed going "fast".

Would still love to hear why dry-shifting into reverse is bad.

Will have to do a bit of searching ... when attempting to start the motor it sounds like the starter didn't always want to engage .. it would not lift high enough to engage all the time. I didn't like the sound of that. *sigh*

Also, helped my nephew drop his lower unit, replace his impeller, and clean up his carbs on an old boat he bought. Runs pretty well now.

Next project is to add the kill switch and possibly a tach, but fee confident enough in taking the boat out for longer journeys now.

GL

/wish I had more time to work on this, it's a nice distraction.