You have the water separating filter, that's all you need. Remove that little one. It's in the pressure side. And glass is a definite no no in a marine engine bay.
Ok, I'll replace the 2 pieces of hose and the filter with a single piece of real A1 hose. Also will flare the cut ends of the hard line where the hose attaches.
Ok, I'll replace the 2 pieces of hose and the filter with a single piece of real A1 hose. Also will flare the cut ends of the hard line where the hose attaches.
I got the hose from West Marine. It definitely looks to have a noticeably large OD than the hose that's on there now. So maybe the existing hose isn't the proper A1 type (as others have already mentioned).
What about the clamps? I usually use the stainless worm gear clamps from the auto store. While I was at West Marine, I decided to save another trip and buy the clamps there. They looked a little better constructed, but they were $6 each!!. I didn't buy them. So I am asking for opinions on clamps. The auto store clamps are about $1 each. Are they good enough? How about double-clamping with them?
I was assuming the line to the carb was the same as the line to the pump. I'll have to measure the line when I get to the boat tonight. Oh well, back to West Marine and another $20 for 3 feet of 5/16" hose. At least I will have a stock of extra hose.
The clamps at Home Depot for $1 are stainless steel.
You're right about the "closed band" clamps. The ones with the slots all the way through chew up the hose by extruding material through the slots as you tighten them. I see this on cars all the time. The West Marine clamps didn't have slots all the way through.
Also, thanks for reminding me about the stainless bands with non-stainless worm. I have those on my pool. The worm is rusting but the band is good.
Not to change your mind, but every boat I own has the typical worm clamps with slots. Everybody still sells them including West M. Only time I ever see hose come up thru the clamp is when a gorilla installed it. Have used some of the grooved ones and don't much care for them. They also have the worm with the inside band to give some added protection to the hose. What I do like is the T-bolts, but they are pricy, and have had them break before.
Personally, I always preferred this style of clamp for rubber hose. They are typically used on hose for fuel injection systems which can be pretty high pressures. They also don't chew up the hose and give really even clamping pressure. I believe most autoparts stores stock them, but I can't recall if they are stainless or zinc plated steel.
I managed to avoid hanging upside down, but I did have to cram myself between the batteries and engine. I didn't actually see the whole pump, but luckily I was used to working on cars as a hobby so I could work by feel. My son turned the engine over with a socket on the crank pulley bolt until the pushrod was at it highest point (retracted). I then used the bent-hacksaw blade trick to hold it up while I slipped the pump lever under it.
If I didn't have to run home for longer bolts, it probably would only have taken an hour.
I was on vacation camping for a few weeks, so I couldn't work on it.
I finished replacing the hose and filter with A1 line. The A1 is way thicker than the existing line, which obviously wasn't A1.
The fuel filter was a pretty high-quality one that unscrewed so you could replace the filter element inside. Too bad they put it in the wrong place.
The boat is sitting on blocks at the marina waiting to be put in the water Wednesday. Unfortunately, its far from any water source I could hook to muffs so I hope it runs properly when its put in the water. I really want to run it out of the water to make sure there are no leaks, etc. As I understand it you can't run an outdrive in a tub because the water level needs to be above the mount on the transom?
I will check again with the marina to see if there is a way to get a hose to it so I can run it. I would hate to have them put it in the water and then it wont start or there is a fuel leak and then back out it goes.
This is the first time I have ever owned a boat or ran one myself (I took the course), so wish me luck!
I primed the carb by injecting gas with a syringe into the bowl vent, and the engine started right up.
Everything seems to work fine. Now I'm the one who needs work! Everything is new to me so learning-curve time.
Docking was a slow affair with a bunch of forward-reverse retries. I didn't hit anything, but if there was a boat in the slip next to mine, it would have been dicey.
Driving straight was a challenge as I am used to precise car steering, so I was kind of yawing side-to-side as I went along. More to practice.
Thanks everyone for the help as I got the boat ready for this event. It would have been much harder without the help from iboats.
Hey, that's great to hear. And you'll be comfortably piloting in no time. Although you shouldn't expect the low speed wandering to stop, that is just what a V hull does at low speed. Pick a spot in the middle for the steering wheel and mostly just ignore it.
