Cauberator Rebuild - Should I attempt myself?

[playyas4u]

I am just curious to how much one would expect to pay to have cauberators rebuilt on a 85hp force? Also is it better to just let the pros do this or is it simple enough to do it myself armed with a service manual? I am not sure if there's a lot of adjustments you have to make after the rebuild.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Re: Cauberator Rebuild - Should I attempt myself?

What year do you have?Fill out the profile.You might be close to someone who can help.
You could have 2 types of carbs on that motor.Both easy to work on.If you have a GOOD service manual(factory) do it your self.
They aren't too complicated.
Don't undo any of the connecting arms.It will be a little harder to work on them but you won't have to re-adjust the linkage.
DON"T use any carb soaks it will swell the rubber in the needle/seat and make the carb useless unless you change the seat and changing the seat is something you don't want to do.
Any spray cleaner will work.J

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Cauberator Rebuild - Should I attempt myself?

Carbs stick out in front of the engine like women's breasts and men just have to mess with them. Rebuilding carbs: It's a male thing.

Whenever there is an engine problem, the first thing men want to do is adjust the carbs. The second thing is to rebuild them. The simple fact is that most of the time, the carbs are the least likely cause of poor performance.

I will repeat myself ad infinitum, ad nauseum: Carbs stick out in front of the engine like women's breasts and men just have to mess with them. Adjusting and rebuilding carbs is a male thing.

Unless there is specific damage these simple carbs do not need rebuilding; a decent cleaning will suffice in over 90% of the times. I like to use WD 40, it dissolves most of the varnish and the softens the rest so it is easy to clean out with pipe cleaners and green scrubbies. (Skotchbrite pads). I do like to dismount them and remove the floats, inlet needles, and low speed needles for cleaning. It does simplify it a bit and remounting and readjusting the needles is easy if you have counted the turns the needles are out from lightly seated. However, it is better to adjust them as outlined in the FAQ sticky at the top of the page. I rarely disassemble them further and that is only when the chokes and butterflies are glued closed with varnish. Unless you truly abuse the engine, that is something you will probably never see.

To dismount, clean, remount, and reset carbs I would charge about 100 bucks. (More for a late model multi-carb Mercury because I need to take apart the whole front of the engine to remove the carbs.) If parts are needed, the you would also pay for them. Take your engine to a marine mechanic and I would easily expect him to charge twice that.

 

[playyas4u]

Re: Cauberator Rebuild - Should I attempt myself?

The engine is a 1989 85HP Model B Force. The problem I am having is that it takes sometimes 30mins to get it started, but once I get it going it will crank on the first turn everytime. It idles well and runs well at WOT but anything in between the engine dies. So either I have to go very slow or very fast! Also I noticed that when I pump the bulb it will get firm but not hard. After I try starting the engine it will not get back firm if I try to re-pump it. It sounds like the gas is just being forced through the engine and the bulb won't get firm. I have replaced the bulb and line. What do you think???

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Cauberator Rebuild - Should I attempt myself?

I think that either you are not starting it correctly, your choke is stuck, either open or closed, or the fuel pump needs a new diaphragm. OR all of these.

First, replace the diaphragm on general principals--it only costs about 3 bucks.

Second, to start the engine cold,make sure the control handle is put in fast idle/warm-up position.

Third, check the choke butterflies or the enrichment valve--whichever one it has for correct operation.

Now here's the reasoning: When cold,the engine need more gas to start. If the chokes are sticking open, or if the engine is not put into fast idle/warm-up, then it won't get that fuel and will take forever to start. Once warm, she will start with the first bump of the key.

A pinhole in the fuel pump diaphragm will leak gas into --at the very least--center cylinder. During full throttle operation, the engine can use the extra fuel but at lower speeds, it will flood and eventually stall.

NOW:The low speed circuit on the carbs consists of the narrow brass dip tube, the low speed needle (front top of the carb or at an angle at the top) and several metered holes in the casting at the butterfly. This circuit functions from idle up to about 2000RPM where the main venturi starts to work. As the butterfly opens, more of the metered holes are exposed to manifold vacuum so more fuel is delivered to meet the engine's needs. If these holes are partially clogged, the engine will not run correctly at intermediate speeds but will run fine at full throttle.

SO: If replacing the diaphragm and the above checks have not solved the problem, then it IS time to remove and clean the carbs.
You can do all the repairs yourself; it only takes hand tools and not much mecanical skill. Then follow the instructions on the top of the page under FAQ Synchronizing timing and carbs. basically a couple of hours work and a couple of bucks. Rebuild kit almost certainly not necessary.

 

[Bustedknuckle84]

Re: Cauberator Rebuild - Should I attempt myself?

excellent post frank, i have a hard cold starting problem following correct procedures. Runs great when start but takes forever to get it to intially fire(cough). I will replace my diaphragm and see if it fixes. thanks for your info!

 

[playyas4u]

Re: Cauberator Rebuild - Should I attempt myself?

That's a lot of good information on how everything works and what to look for. My boat is rather big and I only take it out the water once a year. So I will just do all the services that you mentioned i.e. clean the carbs, change the diaphram, and fuel lines. Hopefully that will take care of my problems! Thank you very much for your help.

 

[playyas4u]

Re: Cauberator Rebuild - Should I attempt myself?

Do you think a hole in the diaphram would explain why the primer ball isn't getting hard after the first pumping?

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Cauberator Rebuild - Should I attempt myself?

Yes, it could account for that but a partial clog anywhere from the tank pick-up to the pump could also cause a soft bulb

 

[jerryjerry05]

Re: Cauberator Rebuild - Should I attempt myself?

The squeezie could be bad too.There is a valve that goes bad.Even new they can be bad.
I had a 88/85 that was a bugger to start.I rebuilt/cleaned and adjusted the carbs and it still didn't want to start.
I accidently (don't remember how)found that when I tilt the motor all the way up and try to start it while it's up it would cough even start while up.
Tilt up,fast idle,push in choke,turn key.As soon as it coughs/starts shut it off and lower it and when it's in the water restart.
Do a compression test for fun.

FRANK!!! Great post,J

 

[playyas4u]

Re: Cauberator Rebuild - Should I attempt myself?

I went to the lake yesterday to try the starting sequence that you suggested. I noticed that the ball never really gets hard at all. It will firm up just a little but it will go back soft with another pump. So I am thinking that's probably my problem. I will start by replacing the fuel lines and diaphram to see if I can correct this.