CDI Electronics Regulator-Rectifier Om# 585114 193-5114

[alpha45]

Hello,
on a 3 Cyl Mercury 80hp 1988 I changed the OEM stator (fault) with CDI Electronics Stator 174-8778k1, and after many doubts, it worked fine.
Now my problem is: the stator I also purchased the CDI Electronics Regulator-Rectifier Om # 585114 193-5114,
because before it was just fitted the Rectifier and battery charging voltage also came to 17 volts.
The new-Regulator Rectifier 193-5114, not being mechanically interchangeable with the old Rectifier (the holes on the mounting plate do not match), for testing I fixed with only one screw on the only hole available.
So I tried everything and the charging voltage reached the max at 14 volts, but after a few minutes of testing, I noticed that the tachometer overcoming a certain number of laps, set to zero.
I had a doubt I touched the rectifier and regulator I felt it was very hot, in fact letting it cool a few minutes, the tachometer was returning to work (thermal protection).
My question is the following: if correctly fixed with the two screws, will dissipate properly ???
Because in the original image there are only 4 wires, while in the new there are 5 wires (gray, tachometer) as attached, and the instructions say to connect the wire to the tachometer a yellow, when in fact there is already a wire gray coming out of the regulator-rectifier ???
I wrote to CDI, but do not answer me .....
Thank you

 

[sam am I]

with the two screws, will dissipate properly ???

It will definitely help. The cleaner/flatter and the larger the mounting area's between both the rec/reg and the sink surface, the better the heat transfer. Heat sink compound can help transfer even more heat if ya have some.

Also, I'm not exactly sure about CDI's replacement but, if the internal reg circuit is a shunt type (99% sure it is), then (**as odd as this may seem**) turn on a few lights/loads in the 4 or 5 amp range while running, it'll help your new rec/reg run cooler. Of course, you'll do this when your battery is fully'ish charged and has become less of a/the load ..........

**By design, the shunt reg part of the rec/reg helps keeps the output voltage to the battery down in range at the 14'ish Volts from say 17V by turning on an internal transistor that acts like a fake load to ground when there isn't enough load provided on/from your system/behalf...........You can actually lessen the work(heat) this transistor has to do if you turn on some loads like the lights or something as mentioned above.

BUT.......if you go over the hump, the shunt trans/reg goes even cooler, however now the stator/rec diodes will begin to heat up higher..........Find their happy spots in the middle ground!! Probably on your 9 amp system, it'll be in the area of a 4 or 5 amp load...........

Because in the original image there are only 4 wires, while in the new there are 5 wires (gray, tachometer) as attached, and the instructions say to connect the wire to the tachometer a yellow, when in fact there is already a wire gray coming out of the regulator-rectifier ???

Not sure I follow.........The gray wire is for the tach typically, if your new part has a gray wire, use it. If not, then the tach. can hook to a yellow wire.

I wrote to CDI, but do not answer me .....

This doesn't surprise me

 

[alpha45]

sam am I

Thanks for your cooperation the clarification and the time that you gave me.
But according to you, is that correct mount it or not?
Hello

 

[sam am I]

One screw, No!!
Two screw's, Yes......

This of course is assuming the issue as you described/experienced is occurring in and during a normal/properly operating motor, including your battery at the time wasn't overly discharged.

Guessing by the temp/heat you felt the rec/reg running at in what I only can presume is under normal conditions coupled with going into thermal shutdown, No!!.........Mount it better somehow so heat can be better dissipated.

 

[alpha45]

Thank you......

 

[sam am I]

You're quite welcome