Center stringer? Do I need it?

Woodonglass

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Re: Center stringer? Do I need it?

What's the difference between tooling, mold making, and the regular glass that we use? Like csm 1708 woven roving? Is all glass about the same except for its weight? Or are they specific?

Not sure I understand your questions or where you're going with it?
 

GaJeff

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Re: Center stringer? Do I need it?

I found some glass on eBay for a really good price. 20oz 38"x 30yds and its like $80. It says its for tooling and mold making. Volan finish. I was wondering what the difference is between that and csm or woven roving. I'm going out today to get 5gal of resin and some cabosil so I can fill in the bottom of the transom and start on the stringers. I was going to order some of that glass to do my stringers but not sure if the application is right. From what I read about his is that it's mainly used for aerospace and molds like septic tanks or fuel tanks. Stuff like that. It's advertised that 7layers is bulletproof with epoxy resin. And 21layers for long rifles. Also it's unidirectional. So I'm not sure it's right for me. But it's a GREAT deal.

Jeff
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Center stringer? Do I need it?

Ok, now I understand. Nope not what you want. If you're using a mold to make a piece out of fiberglass it's totally different than what you're doing. Stick with the biaxial fabric and the CSM mat. That's what you should be using. Where are you getting your resin and cabosil?
 

GaJeff

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Re: Center stringer? Do I need it?

Thanks for the insight... I knew it was to good to be true... For what I need at least. I'm getting my resin from river supply. It's clear cote marine poly. Same with the fillers. I got my first woven roving from there also but it comes in 50"x3yds so I got 2 of those at the time just to do the transom. I would like to find a decent price on a roll of at least csm. No one in the area sells that much at one time so I guess I'm stuck with what I can get. There is a custom glass shop in town I'm going to talk to and maybe he can hook me up. A buddy of mine used to work there and they have giant rolls of everything, so well see if they will come off some.

I decided not to go with that quadaxial because I would rather do multiple layups instead of one big layup.
By the time I get everything PB'd and the stringers cut and set ill be ready for glass and I'm shooting for this weekend on that. And the deck installed by next weekend. I still have to source a few odds and ends for the motor and drive. And I need new transom bolts... Mine looked new on both sides but in the middle it looked like corroded slivers. It's an MC-1 drive so I have 2 studs, 2 bolts, and 2 carriage bolts where the lower anodes screw on to. I need to find a bolt kit.

Thanks for all your help Wood, I really look forward to your advice.
Jeff
 

GaJeff

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Re: Center stringer? Do I need it?

I have a good idea for some fuel lines and wondering if it would be acceptable in a boat.

I'm a diesel mechanic and I work on tractor trailers. On the newer Volvos they have a hard plastic nylon fuel line. It's the same nylon line that's used for air lines on the trucks. It comes in spaghetti line 5/32 up to 3/4" but all I need is 3/8 or 5/16. I think it would be good because it doesn't swell or deteriorate. It won't get soft over time and its completely resistant to all fuels and most chemicals. It's great against chaffing when put in tight areas.

I'm looking for a durable fuel line to go under the deck that requires minimal maintenance and attention. Once the deck is installed I don't want to worry about fuel lines. The couplers use brass fittings so they won't corrode like steel.

What do you think?

Jeff
 

ondarvr

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Re: Center stringer? Do I need it?

That fuel line may work great...or it may not, not something anybody should recommend because it's not an actual approved marine fuel line.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Center stringer? Do I need it?

I agree, I'd use Approved Marine fuel line only. That's one thing on boats, I don't mess with and go cheap on. Tanks, Lines and electrical IMHO should all be "The Right Stuff"
 

GaJeff

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Re: Center stringer? Do I need it?

Ok thanks, it's not a matter of the price. If its what's required then that's what will go in. Was just curious since these fuel lines are suspect to high pressure, chemicals, and harsh conditions. Plus they're so versatile to what all goes through them.

Thanks
Jeff
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Center stringer? Do I need it?

I'm not saying they wouldn't work, just that I KNOW the Marine grade WILL cuz they've been tested for it. I just don't want to be the one to test something and have it fail in the area of fuel and electrical out in the middle of the lake.:eek:
 

GaJeff

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Re: Center stringer? Do I need it?

Your right... Marine fuel line is what's going in. I've been thinking about my tank, I think it's just to big anyways. I'm going to take the original and the 50gal and sell it to fund a smaller one. I think 19-25gal would be more practical. Plus I'm going to have to raise the deck height or make a step up for it and there really just isn't enough room for all that. If I raise the height my steering wheel will be too close to the floor and a step up is a good way to stump a toe. So smaller it is.

Also I found a strip under the port side stringer that was incredibly soft. So soft that I actually grinder through the hull I assume its from the rotten stringers so I have to fix that as well. Ill post pics tomorrow.

Jeff
 

Yacht Dr.

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Re: Center stringer? Do I need it?

Also I found a strip under the port side stringer that was incredibly soft. So soft that I actually grinder through the hull I assume its from the rotten stringers so I have to fix that as well. Ill post pics tomorrow.

Jeff

Kinda hard to mistakenly grind through a fiberglass hull :).

YD.
 

GaJeff

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Re: Center stringer? Do I need it?

The csm is built up almost 2" thick where it was bedding the stringers in. I'm using a cutoff wheel to cut through the bulk and come back with a chisel. I can feel the wheel bottom out on the roving, it makes a solid feel and sound. But in this area it was soft all the way. There was a patch on the bottom of the boat about 3' long and that's where the wheel went through. I've got another spot on the keel that I can see light through so ill be fixing that as well.

Yesterday I got the hook up with some glass. There is a local custom f/g shop in town that I assumed just made stuff and not sold it. Well I went in there and he told me he had whatever I needed. I went in with $100 and got a roll of 2408 10" and 40' x 5' of csm. He says his resin is better than river supply so when I run out ill try his.

About to run to the shop so ill take some pics of my cut through.

Jeff
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Center stringer? Do I need it?

No worries on the cut. Happens all the time. Easy fix so don't sweat it. 2408 is some heavy duty stuff. What's the plan for it?
 

GaJeff

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Re: Center stringer? Do I need it?

It's just a river boat. 2408 is what the guy had and for a good price so that's what I got. I'm going to make the engine compartment pretty strong so I can do a motor upgrade at some point.

I finished up all the the grinding today so now I'm ready to start laying my stringers. I built them from 5/8" ply x3 so it's about 1 7/8 the old boards were 1 1/2. I made them like you showed 2 days ago. They should be ready to cut and install. I washed out the inside of the hull and lifted it about 45* with the crane. I put a big fan at the stern and from the heat of the shop it should dry out tomorrow. I'm not going to mess with it tomorrow and just let it dry. My hands are vibrating anyways from the last 2 days of grinding.

Jeff
 

Yacht Dr.

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Re: Center stringer? Do I need it?

The csm is built up almost 2" thick

About to run to the shop so ill take some pics of my cut through.

Jeff

Again. 2" thick is kinda hard to cut through ..

YD.
 

GaJeff

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Re: Center stringer? Do I need it?

boat 8.4.13 002.jpgboat 8.4.13 004.jpgboat 8.4.13 005.jpgboat 8.4.13 006.jpg

I repaired where I cut through the hull. I used PB to fill in the cuts, backed it with wax paper on the bottom side, and laid 3 layers of the 2408. I still have to sand down the bottom side but I think it turned out really good.

I also tabbed in the transom with 2 layers of 2408. I'm ready to skin the transom with a layer of csm and the last layer of 24oz woven roving. then finish it off with another layer of csm.

I went down to River Supply and got me a new bilge drain tube and installed it. I opened up the hole some so I could coat the inside with some PB to seal the wood and yield a snug fit. I built up the inside to give it a smooth look and beveled the bilge so any water would naturally follow the drain. After I installed the drain I was told that you needed a special tool to flair the other end of the tube. Well I didnt do that and its kind of to late for that now. I'm pretty sure its sealed up tight and not going anywhere. I'm also going to install a garboard pipe thread style plug on the outside. After it is installed and bedded in with 5200 there should be no problems. Its also a bronze flair with a bronze plug.

Jeff
 

GaJeff

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Re: Center stringer? Do I need it?

boat 8.4.13 009.jpgboat 8.4.13 012.jpg

I had a few holes on the backside of the transom I wanted filled. The PO drilled all kinds of holes in the backside and only used like a bath and shower type silicone to seal them, even the ones below the water line. I opened them up a little so i could really pack some PB in there. The only holes I'm going back with are the tow u-bolts, speedo, and the swim latter. I will be installing a set of smart tabs after the boat is in the water.

Jeff
 

GaJeff

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Re: Center stringer? Do I need it?

boat 8.4.13 014.jpgboat 8.4.13 015.jpgboat 8.4.13 017.jpgboat 8.4.13 018.jpgboat 8.4.13 016.jpg

Got the stringers installed....not glued down yet, but installed. I still need to make the bulkheads and the outer stringers before i want to install them for good. I made the stringers from 3 layers of 5/8'' ply and laminated them together. I staggered them to make the 12' length. I used the old stringers as templates and that worked out pretty well. not much adjustment needed. I'm planning on making a bulkhead at the bow, one at the helm, and one before and after the fuel tank. Depending on how long the tank is the bulkhead at the helm could be the one for the tank as well.... we will see.

After all the bulkheads are made, I will install the engine to give me my motor mount location. My bilge was a 2 step for the mount. It dropped down about 3'' and then again to the bottom of the bilge. Since I have a 4cyl. engine thats how it needs to be set up. I also need to make enough room on the sides to make mounts for a V6 if I ever plan to do that. All I would have to do is laminate some mounts to the stringers if i ever do the swap and not have to redesign everything.

Its starting to come together, slowly, but its getting there. I think my progress will show more once the stringers are in.

Jeff
 

GaJeff

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Re: Center stringer? Do I need it?

My transom plate and gimbal housing bolts are in really rough shape. Looks like they could possibly be zinc coated bolts because they are gold. Except for the lower studs that have the zinc cap screwed on it. It looks to be stainless. Is it ok to put zinc bolts back or are they stainless and just plated. The only bolt that seems to be special is the lower one. I can source all the other bolts and studs locally but they are zinc plated.

Jeff
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Center stringer? Do I need it?

You can use what you want, but if it were me, I'd use SS Hardware for everything. You've something you know is going to last.

Edit: I did some research and I don't think the originals were SS. I'm NOT an I/O guy so maybe you should wait for an I/O guru to pass on their expertise. It may be a strength issue or something else. I know you can get the original bolts etc from the MFG.
 
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