Chainsaws, Chisels and Chemicals Oh My

[LFR]

Hello All,
I need to repair/replace the transom on a 1966, 18? Cruisers Inc Tri-Hull
Been talking to Seacast & Nida-Bond ? both claim to have the best.
Nida is about 70 bucks a pail cheaper (need 3 pails)
Looked at a lot of posts & strings, most have been about Seacast ? seems like more users of Seacast out there.
None of the posts from users has been negative and seems like the fiberglass guys hate the whole concept.

I am interested is any feedback on Seacast or Nida-Bond
Please let me know your thoughts on the subject
Thanks

 

[Bondo]

Re: Chainsaws, Chisels and Chemicals Oh My

Ayuh,... Welcome Aboard,.... What's behind that white wall,..??
The inside, 'n above is where the work is...

The Rot, usually goes Much deeper once ya start lookin'...
'n when ya get that deep, plywood 'n glass is the Best way out...

 

[sphelps]

Re: Chainsaws, Chisels and Chemicals Oh My

Hi LFR , I plan on using Nida-Bond on my MFG mainly because of the cost. I think they are both good products . Just make sure you read and understand the directions to get the best possible bond. I live about 2 hours from seacast and about 3 or so from NidaBond so I,m picking it up myself in a few weeks . So we will see how it goes. Archbuilder used seacast and I think he,s happy with it.
Good luck S.P.

 

[LFR]

Re: Chainsaws, Chisels and Chemicals Oh My

Thanks for getting back to me Bond-O
i take it your not a fan of the "poored transom"

Existing Condition:
The original construction looks like 7, ?” hardwood plies lammed together.
I have been told this boat has been out of the water, on trailer for 6 years. (just bought it)

It looks like the port engine bolts were not sealed correctly
I popped off the top cap yesterday and it looks like the port side is shot from top to bottom. Screwdriver will go in – in any direction, to the handle….. (On the + side, very easy to remove)
I bet I can remove half the transom by hand.

At center (on top) the wood is hard however rotten at the bottom by drain and gash.
The holes on the starboard side seem to have been sealed well and appear to be solid.
The inner wall of the transom looks perfect and is solid – I would hate to cut that contoured piece up.

It will take 1 sheet per layer, so I think it will take 3 sheets of marine ply to build up to 1-3/4” thick.
I haven’t run the numbers however I think the total cost with 3 sheets, resin & glass cloth will come in close to the Nida-Bond.

Have you tried the poorable?
Why do you prefer the old school way. for the most part i hate change in general, but these products seem to be pretty good alturnative.
i plan to keep this boat and want to do this only one time.
what do you think?

 

[LFR]

Re: Chainsaws, Chisels and Chemicals Oh My

Hi Sphelps, wow you’re in a good spot. I’m looking at 100 for freight.
Very interested in your project and how it goes.
How bad is your transom?
Have you removed the wood yet?

I’m in Mich and have some time to decide due to weather however I need a firm plan and products on hand for when the weather breaks

 

[sphelps]

Re: Chainsaws, Chisels and Chemicals Oh My

Well my transom was compleatly shot .The woods all out and I,m almost ready for the pour . Basically saving up some$ it,s not as high on the priority list if you know what I mean. It would be cheaper to use plywood. 3sheets of wood seems like a little much, just thinking.. I,m pretty lucky my MFG has all fiberglass stringers and deck thats why I,m pouring it. No wood to ever rot out! I would recommend cutting out the inside skin to clean . I,m not so smart sometimes and took 95% of wood out before I finally cut skin..Check out my thread at bottom of post when you get time. Lots of pro,s out there to help you along..
Later,S.P.

 

[Coho Ghost]

Re: Chainsaws, Chisels and Chemicals Oh My

I put a Nida-core transom in a 15' Livingston Pacific Skiff. It was easy to do, and has worked out great. Nida's tech people were a great help. Getting the rotten wood core out is the hard part. I used an electric chain saw and a spade bit welded to a 24" extension and drove it with an 18V DeWalt. Nida tech suggested I sand the inner faces of the glass faces with sandpaper cemented to a long board, vacuum it out, and wash it with acetone before the pour. They also recommended pre-coating the inner surfaces with poly resin (no wax) the day before the pour. One thing I didn't do was plumb the transom dead vertical fore and aft and athwart ship. Before the stuff kicks it's pretty runny, and I ended up a little low with the pour on the starboard side. I had to build it up with glass and resin to get it fair up.

FWIW
Coho Ghost

 

[chriscraft254]

Re: Chainsaws, Chisels and Chemicals Oh My

Use the nida, the stuff is bullet proof. Seacast is also very good, but if the Nida is cheaper, go for it. Removing the inside or outside skin is the way to go. You can look at Classicmako.com. There are many guys over there that have used the Nida product. Good luck and post up a restore thread with picks so we can watch!