Chris Craft, input wanted?

[LippCJ7]

Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

Yes...I'm hoping for a dry run (wet run?) before I tackle the interior...It'll make it easier to sell on the wife if she's running...

AHHHHHH!! Well Played!!

 

[bajaunderground]

Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

Update:

The motor builder is not gonna have the new short block ready until Monday...so I'm meeting a buddy tomorrow morning at 5:00am at his shop (they have a forklift and a large drive in area). Pulling the rest of the block and setting it in the back of my truck.

The drive is pulled...that was actually easy. I didn't have a lifting eye, nor lift, so I just unbolted the hydraulic rams and let the skeg rest on a cardboard box...unbolted the 3 shift cover bolts, disconnected the the shifting linkage and unbolted the remaining 6 bolts...muscled her off and set her aside (times like these I'm glad I workout as much as I do...makes lifting heavy object much, much easier).

Tomorrow morning, drive to shop, drain oil, unbolt the rear engine mounts and unbolt the 4 lags of the front engine mount the...yank the motor out.

Next Saturday, repeat the process only in reverse...this gives me the remainder of the week to get the motor and accessories reassembled in my garage. Along with the ability to check stringers and such?!

~Brett

P.S. Wish me luck?!

 

[Maclin]

Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

If the heads are off the block you are saving labor if they end up needing work. But for just an "acid" test of the engine in as-is condition then I agree you have it under control

 

[bajaunderground]

Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

So I got the short block back Monday afternoon, started putting it all back together...Had to to work Monday evening, so progress was thwarted. Had to work 0900-2100 on Tuesday, so Once again, progress was thwarted...Luckily I got off at 1830 so I was able to get in a few hours of wrenching after the kids went to bed.

Woke up Wednesday morning and had to take kids to school, go to gym and show some houses to my retired Chief. As luck would have it, he had a engine hoist and I was able to borrow (this saved me the drive to the buddies shop with a fork lift and waiting until Friday evening to get the motor back in!) I finished the assembly, added oil and switched from engine stand to hoist for the flywheel, drive coupling, shield and starter. Backed the boat in the garage and installed. While I had no help, It would have been much simpler with 2 people...lowering, aligning, pushing, etc...

The motor's in, and all connected, as of 2000 last night. Going to the local boat shop here and have the mechanic check alignment (cheaper than buying the tool, at this time). I should note: I placed the engine mounts back on in exactly the same way...no adjustments were made, so I'm hoping all I need is an alignment check ($10.00), if it needs more then I'll order and alignment tool and adjust myself.

Once I have the drive back on then it's a earmuff test and possibly a water test tomorrow morning. It's supposed to snow Friday sometime, so I'll have to winterize, but at this point that's a 30 minute job (new oil, new sea water impeller, plugs and fuel stabilizer all done)

Oh and another ~$130 for miscellaneous (Oil, filter, Zinc additive, chain, tools, etc...)

GRAND TOTAL: ~$2,000ish (only interior left, $1,000)


~Brett


P.S. I should mention that I have no left over parts, except 2 wiring harness hoops (one smaller and one larger) I'll put them on once I figure out where they go!! Not mission critical at all!

 

[Willyclay]

Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

Attaboy!

 

[LippCJ7]

Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

Looks real good bud!

I winterized mine yesterday....

 

[bajaunderground]

Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

Got her to come to life! I went thru the whole electrical connections and verified the connections were good and that I had re-installed all the items properly! After being stumped this morning, I went ahead and moved the shifter around a little...had cranking!!! So I cranked and cranks, she started! Adjusted the timing a little and shut down.

I then proceeded to install the outdrive...that took a little patience and short of having the appropriate eye-let to hang from I rigged a ratch-it strap and motorcycle hold down to hold it right, slipped right in. Bolted the bolts to torque, pulled it out front, hooked up earmuffs and fired her up again, this time with water...adjusted timing and had her idling around 800rpm (I'm guessing she was cold and the choke was working! Looked at RPM gauge (check) looked at water temp gauge (never went above 150*F), checked oil pressure gauge (60psi) and battery gauge (~13.8volts). She seems to idle and run okay, but my only concern is then noise of the lifters, they seem a little "chattery"?

I'm assuming A) the oil was SAE 30 and it's thick and could take a while to flow B) the rocker arms are miss-adjusted (25lb-ft as per manual) or C) there's something wrong with flow (pressure was 60psi and went down slightly when rev'd. as expected?) ?I will say all the lifters had oil in them when I disassembled, I cleaned em up and blow out each push rod (to a point I could see straight all the way thru). Coated them both with assembly lube...any ideas?

Thanks,

~Brett

 

[hungupthespikes]

Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

A) the oil was SAE 30 and it's thick and could take a while to flow (you got it up to temp, so problem not there)
B) the rocker arms are miss-adjusted (25lb-ft as per manual) (Most likely the problem, getting the hydraulic lifters full, when you don't rebuild engines a lot, is VERY common, leads to miss-adjustment) :facepalm: (I got a closet full of t-shirts on this one)

C) there's something wrong with flow (pressure was 60psi and went down slightly when rev'd. as expected?) (Yep, expected, should come right back up) As it breaks in that will go away even more.

do this:
(not a great video, but good enough)

HYDRAULIC VALVE ADJUSTMENT ENGINE RUNNING.mpg - YouTube

Make sure your getting a good oil flow from each lifter.
Now you can readjust per the manual if you want to get it to run the strongest it can.

I don't, I let it go until she gets the rings set and everything gets settled in. No hard running.
After rings set, motor settles, you check/adjust everything one last time...... timing, valves, choke, you name it, check/ADJUST it per specs., be anal about it.

Then it's good to go for a long time.
huts

 

[bajaunderground]

Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

A) the oil was SAE 30 and it's thick and could take a while to flow (you got it up to temp, so problem not there)
B) the rocker arms are miss-adjusted (25lb-ft as per manual) (Most likely the problem, getting the hydraulic lifters full, when you don't rebuild engines a lot, is VERY common, leads to miss-adjustment) :facepalm: (I got a closet full of t-shirts on this one)

Make sure your getting a good oil flow from each lifter.
Now you can readjust per the manual if you want to get it to run the strongest it can.

I don't, I let it go until she gets the rings set and everything gets settled in. No hard running.
After rings set, motor settles, you check/adjust everything one last time...... timing, valves, choke, you name it, check/ADJUST it per specs., be anal about it.

Then it's good to go for a long time.
huts

These are shoulder bolts that hold a fulcrum and rocker arm, there's no real way to adjust...after speaking with a few people, it's most likely the lifters are not fully 'charged' and they will take a little while to get there...especially with SAE 30. I only just reached operating temps...I should let it run longer! The guy that built my short block said they can take 10+ minutes at operating temp...

I'll baby her tomorrow with earmuffs then winterize for next season...next stop interior!

Thanks Huts!

 

[bajaunderground]

Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

After speaking to a few people and doing a little research...I think I've come to the conclusion, I need to replace my lifters/tappets...so, once again I have to remove exhaust manifolds, remove valve covers, remove intake manifold, loosen rocker arms, pull push-rods, pull tappets, replace tappets and reinstall...for good measure I'm going to replace push-rods too! That should cure my noisy valve train?

That's a project for a warmer/nicer day...here in Colorado we're expecting cold and snow in the next 24 hours...so next project is winterizing the boat.

Again, thanks for all the input and encouragement...

~Brett

 

[hungupthespikes]

Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

After speaking to a few people and doing a little research...I think I've come to the conclusion, I need to replace my lifters/tappets...so, once again I have to remove exhaust manifolds, remove valve covers, remove intake manifold, loosen rocker arms, pull push-rods, pull tappets, replace tappets and reinstall...for good measure I'm going to replace push-rods too! That should cure my noisy valve train?

That's a project for a warmer/nicer day...here in Colorado we're expecting cold and snow in the next 24 hours...so next project is winterizing the boat.

Again, thanks for all the input and encouragement...

~Brett

Hold on Brett. Get the lifters/tappets full. You will know when the oil flow coming out is good. Then go thru the adjustments again (re torque) The 25flbs. on just the spring is way different than pushing against a hydraulic pump (tappet) I'll bet that will cure your noise.


It is tricky to get it right, but it's a very common problem with a new motor/assembler.
"been there, done that, got the t-shirt" (boy do I have t-shirts on your very problem)

These will come in handy when checking oil flow.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-1015/media/images

+++++OR +++++

Take it to the guy you have been dealing with. He is an engine guy and will have it running like a top in 30 minutes.
Watch how your mechanic gets the tappets pumping again.

Getting the adjustments right is not hard. Getting the hydraulic lifters full and pumping right before you put them in is a learning curve.
Getting the tappets full/working after assembly......time for pro help, before you pull it apart again.
huts

 

[bajaunderground]

Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

Hold on Brett. Get the lifters/tappets full. You will know when the oil flow coming out is good. Then go thru the adjustments again (re torque) The 25flbs. on just the spring is way different than pushing against a hydraulic pump (tappet) I'll bet that will cure your noise.


It is tricky to get it right, but it's a very common problem with a new motor/assembler.
"been there, done that, got the t-shirt" (boy do I have t-shirts on your very problem)

These will come in handy when checking oil flow.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-1015/media/images

+++++OR +++++

Take it to the guy you have been dealing with. He is an engine guy and will have it running like a top in 30 minutes.
Watch how your mechanic gets the tappets pumping again.

Getting the adjustments right is not hard. Getting the hydraulic lifters full and pumping right before you put them in is a learning curve.
Getting the tappets full/working after assembly......time for pro help, before you pull it apart again.
huts

I'll ask if he's willing to take a look? I'd love nothing better than to run what I got!

~brett

 

[banshee owner]

Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

baja when you took the motor apart did you say you cleaned the lifters. A good practice with old or new lifters is soak em in a container of oil over night before you rebuild that allows oil to get inside them and they don't have to pump up as quick. But that doesn't really help you now another trick and old mechanic friend of mine does is with the distributor removed he uses the oil pickup rod on an electric drill to run the oil pump and he runs it till he see oil coming out of the lifters and such but that will require distributor removal.

 

[bajaunderground]

Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

baja when you took the motor apart did you say you cleaned the lifters. A good practice with old or new lifters is soak em in a container of oil over night before you rebuild that allows oil to get inside them and they don't have to pump up as quick. But that doesn't really help you now another trick and old mechanic friend of mine does is with the distributor removed he uses the oil pickup rod on an electric drill to run the oil pump and he runs it till he see oil coming out of the lifters and such but that will require distributor removal.

Thanks for stopping by Banshee...

I thought since the lifter were being reused they be okay...ever been wrong? I have!:facepalm:

Today I de-winterized, started the motor up and let it reach temps and maintain for 10+ minutes...the starboard side seemed to quiet down, but the port side still has some pretty loud clacking...at least as near as I can tell the starboard side seems quieter, cannot fully tell with the port side's noise!!

Tomorrow I'll pull the port side exhaust manifold, pull of valve cover and double check my rocker arm adjustments (25lb-ft). If those are all in spec, then it's only another 30 minutes to pull starboard side valve cover, intake manifold and replace all lifters with new ones! I will, use a 50cc syringe with an 18g, 1" blunt fill needle to fill each one up and reinstall, adjust, reinstall and let er rip!!!

Today, the operating temp never exceeded 150*F, the oil pressure stayed ~60psi and I realized I had spark plugs 2-3 mis-wired, whoops (motor runs much smoother now!)!!! Engine exhaust sounds good, water flow seems great, fixed a small fuel leak at the carb (from initial re-install), fixed a small leak at the sea water pump where the brass body and brass backplate meet together with a gasket (read: tightened). Oil looks good and clean, carb responds to throttle...and I shifted the outdrive (at idle) in gear, both ways, just to be sure nothing was bound up and shift smoothly, which it did....granted there wasn't a load on it, but before I drag the boat 30+ miles to drop into the water, I needed to know.

I just ordered new exhaust and drive bellows, which will be going on before her maiden voyage...smart time to do would've been when had the drive off, but hey, I've got nothing better to do, right? Besides, getting the drive off/on was so easy...:frusty:

~Brett

P.S., I went ahead and re-winterized...just in case, I mean I live in Colorado and our weather is so predictable!

 

[banshee owner]

Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

so when you realized you crossed two wires and corrected it did your valve noise go away. if not you may have a collapsed lifter that just wont pump up all the way. i have had that happen. I think best thing to do is pull the valve covers only. and make sure each rocker has oil coming out of it. You likely know this but oil goes thru the lifters up the pushrods and into head areas. its possible that after the lifters sitting for a while and you cleaning em out they are sticking or plugged or whatever has happened. Was the other engine noisey or did you run it long enough to find out. best of luck to you.

I finally feel i can contribute something to these forums lol up till now all i was doing was asking questions and seeking answers lol

 

[bajaunderground]

Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

Banshee,

Your intuition is spot on...the noisiest lifter was #8 intake...it had a collapsed lifter! I found this out because I pulled the exhaust manifolds and valve covers and could move that rocker arm around quite a bit...so removed the intake and replaced all 16 tappets...all quiet on the western front! Installed new intake gaskets as well! She purrs much quieter, still some minor ticking, but that will go away as soon as I have the time to run her for a while!

I brought home a syringe and 18g blunt fill needle to inject each lifter with oil...the guy that build the short block said not to bother, just assemble with assembly lube and you'll be fine...so that's what I did!

While I marked my distributor for the reinstall, I wasn't 100% on whether the internal rotated, so i had to reset TDC and reinstalled from scratch!

Next project? Interior! While I'm sure I could tackle and make it look very good, I'll just get it done professionally (along with new mooring covers and Bimini ( I'm thinking Chevy SS style stripes on the sun pad, morning covers and Bimini?)

So far about $2,400.00 into the Craft!

 

[banshee owner]

Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

AWESOME !!! glad to hear you are making headway. Another task crossed off the list. good job

 

[bajaunderground]

Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

Well, fortunately we had gorgeous weather today, so I went boating (re-maiden voyage?) Dropped her in the local city lake (40 acres), and gave her a few go arounds...she seems to run very well, but I never exceeded 3,500rpm and gave her very little trim...oil pressure ~60, water temp 140ish*F, alternator 14v, no speedo, but I'm going GPS anyway?! trim gauge is sporadic...more than likely I'll replace all gauges with newer white types (like the Baja).

Beached:


Short little video:

Interior next!

~Brett

 

[haulnazz15]

Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

Looks like you got yourself a good deal there, baja. If nothing else, you could probably get more than your investment if you sold it as-is. With a low-budget interior, it's a $5K+ boat with less than $3,500 in it. Congrats!

 

[bajaunderground]

Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

Looks like you got yourself a good deal there, baja. If nothing else, you could probably get more than your investment if you sold it as-is. With a low-budget interior, it's a $5K+ boat with less than $3,500 in it. Congrats!

Thanks for the encouragement! I figured with marketing a 'rebuild' for a motor (V8) and new SS themed interior (not cheesy, just SS stripes on the Sunpad and some navy blue accent portions with corresponding SS striped bimini and mooring covers...she should be marketable at $6,000.00) I'm not really thinking selling...

I really didn't want to sell the Baja, but needed the $ and along came a buyer willing to pay what I asked (less $100). Ironically, I paid $4,000 for the Baja with a "rebuilt" motor...twas a butch rebuild that I had to immediately have rebuilt for $3,200. After the rebuild, she was a runner (65mph GPS @ 4,300') and reliable as all heck (never had her towed nor left me stranded). We used her for 7 years and sold for $4,400.00 the CC should be a more desirable boat...but I don't plan on selling!

Here's a few pics of the Baja:




~Brett