Chrysler 12.9 HP Mod 122HD Serial 5156

[Kevin60181]

I picked up this outboard a few months back from a Demolition Sale, house being torn down for new construction. See demo-pro.com for details.
I?ve been putts?n with pulling the flywheel on & off for months. Some butcher stripped out 3 of the 4 holes, and broke off the other bolt.
The other night I decided to drill 3 new holes and taped them. Like on an Evinrude outboard.
BAM! That flywheel came right off. First thing I see is the Blue wire from the condenser is rubbed clean down to the wire from hitting the magnet in the flywheel. (Bad Tune-Up)
I found the part here on Iboats.com # 18-5241

I have a number of questions????
12.9 HP, Model 122HD, Serial # 5156
What year is this?
Where can I find points?
Would that short from the condenser have damaged the coil?
I haven?t tested the coil yet with a VOM, but will.
The Impler number?

And the Big One!
How can I set this up, to set the points with a VOM meter like on an Evinrude outboard engine?
That?s just such a sweet way to fine-tune the points!

I haven?t even tried to start it, do to the fact I can?t supply fuel. I plan on switching the fittings to Johnson/Evinrude, seeing I have that tank.
?

 

[Nordin]

Re: Chrysler 12.9 HP Mod 122HD Serial 5156

The year is 1973 on your 12,9Hp. The 12,9Hp were in production from 1971 until 1973. In 1974 it was uprated as 15Hp. The powerhead is the same as the 15Hp maybe the 15Hp has lager intakeports and larger jets in the carb.
You can find parts here at iboat but if you need parts that can be hard to find contact Franz at Franzmarine, he has everything that are available and you know you get the right part.

About ign.parts, points and coils and so on the statorplate were nearly the same for the 4.4, 5, 6, 6.6, 7, 9,9, 12.9 and 15Hp. Coils, capacitors and points fits from all this engines.

The damage on the wire to the capacitor do not hurt the coil it just ground out the ign. at that cyl. and you do not get any spark when it touch the flywheel. You have to isolate the wire and be sure it do not hit the flywheel.

How you set the timing:
Clean the points, turn crankshaft so the points for cyl.# 1 is set at highest point at camcurve. Set it at 020.
Turn flywheel 180dgr and set the other points for the # 2 cyl. 020. Thats it!!

How you set the throttlepickup point:
Turn statorplate all way cw to lowest setting. On the cam for the carbroller there is a mark and the roller will now be to the right of the mark. Turn statorplate ccw and when the roller just touch the cam it should be at the mark or with in 0,04in the cam. If not adjust it with the screw that hold the roller to the linkage.
Then turn the plate slowly ccw until the carbbutterfly starts to move, now the roller should be with in 0,04in to the left of the mark. If not adjust with the screw on the linkage for the butterfly.

Fine tuneing:
Start the engine and warm it up. Adjust the fuel/air mixture (1-1,5 out from slightly seated). The engine shall not pop out or preload when you go from highspeed to idle.
Now if the engine is sneezing at idle you have to adjust the throttle pickup with the screw on the linkage for the butterfly.

Hope you understand. My english ios not that good.

 

[wickware]

Re: Chrysler 12.9 HP Mod 122HD Serial 5156

I?m surprised at the design differences of this mag sys compared to my 1970 35HP Chrysler attached.

You Live And You Learn!!

 

[Nordin]

Re: Chrysler 12.9 HP Mod 122HD Serial 5156

Wickware Your 35Hp has it roots from WestBend OB in early 60s thats why it is different in design. The 35Hp (25, 30, 35Hp enginefamily) who was design and featured in 1975 (25 and 30Hp in 1973) had a similar magneto ign.system as kevin60181 12.9Hp engine.
This was good for the production of Chrysler OB, they used same parts to a large range of models. Cheaper productioncosts.

 

[Kevin60181]

Re: Chrysler 12.9 HP Mod 122HD Serial 5156

Looks like Nordin is the man for details on Chrysler Outboard Engines!
Thank you Nordin! And your English is A OK by me!

I?ll clean up the points, adjust, repair and move that condenser wire. If the engine runs, I?ll order a new condenser?s and points.

I still have to figure out a change over for the fuel line hook up. After I get the engine running, then I?ll change the water pump also.

Do you think it?s the same water pump that is in the 15 HP or the 9.9 HP Chrysler of the same year (1973)?

I don?t want to sink any money into this engine until I get it up and running. If it runs, then it?s Full Throttle ahead on buying parts.

F-T has a nice set up for setting points without the flywheel being installed. Way more accurate than using a .20 feeler gauge. (Timing Fixtures)
Will this work on a Chrysler engine? Or is it for Evinrude engines only?

 

[wickware]

Re: Chrysler 12.9 HP Mod 122HD Serial 5156

Thanks Nortin! This is good info. The 1970 35 HP Chrysler?s toughness is hard to beat.

Plus, it can smell a fish a mile away. LOL.

 

[Nordin]

Re: Chrysler 12.9 HP Mod 122HD Serial 5156

kevin60181 I think the impeller for 9.9 and 15Hp will fit your 12.9Hp. They have the same housing and same size at the drivshaft. BUT to be sure, check with franzmarine.

About the timing setting:
The OMC timing fixture will not fit Chrysler crank/statorplate and Chrysler do not have timingmarks on statorplate. Maybe you can use the fixture with some modification and use it to adjust the points so they open exactly 180dgr from each other.

 

[Kevin60181]

Re: Chrysler 12.9 HP Mod 122HD Serial 5156

Holy Mackerel!
Searched the web for the points (Contact Set). Guess they don?t make them any more.
There are a few places with them in stock, but they want any where from $60 to $95 for them. Plus shipping.
Is that installed price? NOPE!

Info I found on parts numbers:
Contact Set: MFG # F12153-1 = Sierra # 18-5161

Tune Up Kit (2 of Each, Points & Condenser): MFG # FK 1006 = Sierra # 18-5009

Not 100% sure, but it looks like the Tune-Up Kit will fit most Chrysler out boards from 4.5 HP to 15 HP, built around the 1970?s.

Back to the Engine. Saturday, I pulled the points and cam, cleaned them both up. Used an emery cloth on the points. Holding Light pressure on the points, with the emery cloth between them and pulled the cloth through them 3 or 4 times till most of the black was gone. Flipped over the emery cloth and did the same on the other side of points.
Emery cloth was about 3 inches long.

Also pulled the cam cloth pad that rubs & oils the cam for the contact set. Cleaned that, dried it, re-oiled, flipped it, and installed.

Also covered the bear wire on the condenser with silicone and wrapped with electrical tape.

Funny?. Who ever worked on this the last time, didn?t know that the lock washer goes behind the nut on the wires that connect to the contact set. They had it behind the 2 wire connectors next to the plastic. LOL

Today I?ll pick up some fuel line and make an adapter of some sort, to hook up to my Evinrude fuel line.

Lots of ?Honey Do? projects around the house today. Hope to get that engine running later on.

Time tells all!

I'll check with www.franzmarine.com for parts after I get this project running.
Thank you!

 

[Kevin60181]

Re: Chrysler 12.9 HP Mod 122HD Serial 5156

Took a bit to get it started. Ran Carb Cleaner through the fuel line the night before and let it sit all night.
Today I took it outside, set up the trash can with water. The 1st few times it would run in bursts then die.
I also noticed little or no water coming from the engine. (good sign the impeller needs to be replaced?).
It also did some engine sneezing, that went away after it warmed up.
Here's a 2 minute video on You Tube of the engine running after it warmed up:
1973 Chrysler 12 9 HP Mod 122HD - YouTube

I ran it for about 25 minutes, ran it till the fuel line was dry.
Then I washed down the engine to get rid of all the dirt and oil on the outside.
Now I'll start the teardown to replace the impellar and lower gear case oil.

 

[jim j geezer]

Re: Chrysler 12.9 HP Mod 122HD Serial 5156

Couple of things: I'd be interested to learn what you end up with regarding the quick-connect swap to OMC. I've tried that approach a couple of times and just ended up with something that looked like a Rube Goldberg reject! :faint2: I finally relented and just went with new BRASS connectors I got here at iboats. Then modified the male that attaches to the motor. I drilled out the threaded end to a depth of maybe 1" using a good 1/4" bit. Then pressed in about a 3" length of 1/4" copper tubing after thinly coating with epoxy. <--That lets me retain the use of 1/4" fuel line at the powerhead. With respect to your points... Contact points have a very thin plating that resembles chrome and intends to inhibit pitting/corrosion. I'd counsel against using course sandpaper because you want to preserve as much of that plating as you can. My preference is to 'polish' using #800 or #1000 wet-or-dry, folded lengthwise to present 2 abrasive surfaces to the contact surfaces - just as you did by pulling it through the closed, spring-loaded contacts. <--That approach usually gets me through the season.

 

[Kevin60181]

Re: Chrysler 12.9 HP Mod 122HD Serial 5156



I had both the orignal Male & Female connectors. On the female end (supply), I cut off the old line, which was as hard as a rock. I added about a foot of new 1/4 inche fuel line attached with a hose clamp. The other end I used a new Johnson / Evinrude brass fitting, again attached with a hose clamp. Looked like a jimmy rig, but got the engine running. That's what I was after!
You can see the brass fitting in the video link a few posts above.

As for the points.... I agree with you 100%. # 800 or higher would have been a better choice. Didn't have that handy at the time.
These points were badly pitted and covered with corrosion. Now that I know the engine runs, I'm looking for a New set of points to install.