chrysler 140hp help australia

[hrncjar]

hi guys looking for a set of stacks for my 140hp chrysler if anyone can help me to source a set that would be very helpful.

secondly i have a 1 peice gearbox which i was using on my 85hp and iv since bolted on a 140hp power head and im my motor is revving upto 7000rpm on the 15' prop, iv tried a 21' race prop still revving at 6800rpm, iv tried a merc 27' cleever prop motor bogs out untill 1500-2000rpm then takes off and only revvs untill 4000rpm, im trying to find a prop that is a happy medium, which gets me to revv around the 4500-5000rpm, any thoughts guys. any help is great

thanks regards shaun

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: chrysler 140hp help australia

Shaun: Exhaust stacks are very rare. The last set I saw was on ebay--probably 5 years ago. They were sold with a racing lower unit for 1600 bucks. You might try the site: The Chrysler Crew, join, and advertise for parts. You might also search youtube. Recently I did see a video of a 135 with stacks but the owner had them blocked-off. They are wild when open. But really, unless you are going die-hard, balls-to-the-wall racing, they are overkill.

For props, if money is not a primary object, try a Ballistic stainless prop in a 21 pitch. It is a fully cupped prop and has a lot of rake. It loaded my 125 down to 4500 yet gave the same speed as a stock 21 pitch Chrysler racing cleaver that turned 5900 RPM. However, it has so much rake that the blades hit the exhaust snout.

A lot of fellows notch the exhaust snout to clear the prop blades but you don't really need to do that: You will need to modify the prop thrust washer by removing the anode, clamping a stainless collar to the shaft, and using a couple of thin stainless flat washers to properly space the prop in the lower unit yet clear the exhaust by about 1/8 inch. The original thrust washer will now be used under the prop nut.

 

[MickLovin]

Re: chrysler 140hp help australia

I have a 23" prop ally if you are close by, was too big for my 100hp

 

[hrncjar]

Re: chrysler 140hp help australia

thanks ill look into that prop FrankA, also yes iv noticed about the stacks their very rear and hard to find most people who have them dont want to let them go. i just want to go as fast i can, dosnt matter if i kill my self trying, id like to get my hands on a 1-1 racing gearbox/leg their tiny and really skinny, their also a rare item i cant seem to find or get my hands on, thats why i was hopeing people in the usa would be more helpful finding such items.


Micklovin i am keen to try any prop, please private message me we can hash out a price and or test run, im in brisbane but am willing to go for a drive to get/test a prop.

also FrankA would a 4-blade prop work better for both pulling fat people out of the water(wake boarding) and go fast, im happy to have 2 or more props just to have either the ability to wakeboard(get lots of thrust on take off to pull people out of the water) and another prop just to go fast. we would rather like to go fast and have the ability to pull fat people like my self out of the water without too much struggle on motor, but either is fine. only takes like 2mins to change a prop at the lake/river.

regards shaun

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: chrysler 140hp help australia



I have no experience with 4 blade props but from what I have read in the prop forum, they are used for things like wakeboarding. I believe the increased blade area does translate into higher thrust. However, a correctly sized three blade will pull a chunky monkey out of the water, depending upon hull size. I have a 19 pitch stainless on my 140. The hull is a 21 foot cuddy cabin. It will pull me out of the water (deepwater start) on a slalom ski but I am only 160.

before you go searching for a 4 blade, try to settle on a good compromise in a three blade. Stainless generally will perform better than aluminum, giving about 2 MPH more speed.

Since you are a "Motor Maniac" and want to go as fast as possible you can vent the lower unit with four or five holes as shown in the first and second photos. It will be a bit noisier but may--not will--but may give a slight increase in power due to decreased backpressure. On mine, the holes are about 3/8 diameter (10mm) and countersunk to about 5/8 (15-16mm). If you do this, be certain the first hole is drilled about 1/2 inch to the rear of the vertical section of the lower unit. This will miss the mounting bolt boss inside the lower unit. You would also want to raise the engine on the transom so that the anti-ventilation plate is about one inch above the hull bottom. This varies with hull design and too much will cause ventilation when going straight. You want it to the point where the lower unit will ventilate on sharp turns but will quiet down when you trim in.

And BTW: The first photo shows an old school Mercury 2 blade bronze racing prop, about 23 pitch. Keep an open mind about props. You can use many Mercury props as long as the hub will fit inside the lower unit torpedo.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: chrysler 140hp help australia



Second two photos show a Mercury test prop which had the large hub. Since it was aluminum, I cut off the hub flange, reduced it and glued it inside the prop hub so it would fit my gearcase. Since your gearcase is NOT dual exhaust, it is not necessary to have the flange at all. But, since it came from the factory like that I generally try to duplicate it. last photo is a close-up of the bronze two blade. First two photos are of a stock Chrysler stainless cleaver prop.

And, before I forget, there is no difference in performance between a closed hub prop and a thru hub exhaust prop so use whatever you get.

 

[MickLovin]

Re: chrysler 140hp help australia

This bloke has all the Chrysler toys doesn't he

 

[hrncjar]

Re: chrysler 140hp help australia

ill try the drilling of the holes, iv herd that works, what if you drill too many holes, say the 4 holes works better than 5 holes how do i patch the hole, do i just weld it up.? also do i drill the holes on both sides? or just one side?

with the props iv just tried the standard chrysler ones and 2 merc ones(iv just taken the anode off and exhaust tail thing) which iv noticed it cavitates without exhaust on, can i just cut a peice out of the exhaust tail thing, or is it ok just to remove the exhaust tail completely?

also iv always had a problem with cavitation when turning on tight turns, motor seems to rev alot and not go fast, untill i straighten up and go in straight line then it shoots off. any thoughts?

pritty sure the top of my prop blade is at the lowest/bottem of boat, if that makes sense, so rather than having the prop/gearbox inline with bottem of boat, most people say that would help me go faster if i lift my motor up a few inches to get the centre of prop inline with bottem/lowest point of my boat, is that accurate?

 

[hrncjar]

Re: chrysler 140hp help australia

franka if you pm me your email i cant send you some fotos of my boat, my files seem to big to post on site as they are like 1.6mb reather than site allowance .64mb for fotos not sure how to compress them to make them work for this site. not really computer minded.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: chrysler 140hp help australia

I don't mind sending you my email but others may want to see the photos too. To compress your photos, download them onto your computer. OPEN them with PAINT. Now at the top of the tool bar you will see RESIZE. Click on that. Reduce the size until you get something that the forum will accept: Try 50% first. Then "save as" another file name so your original is not changed.

You don't need to be computer literate--look at Micklovin. If he can do it anyone can LOL Sorry Mick. I just couldn't resist! Gotta stick it to you Aussies

As far as drilling the relief holes: I used four but I don't think five would be too many. I used an 82 degree countersink so that if I wanted to blank off a couple of holes I could use 3/8 flathead screws with nuts inside. Now come on---- Drill both sides so it looks uniform AND Use a template so it doesn't look like an amateur job. I used some perforated angle iron to space and drill the holes.

I never tried it but I have heard of some fellows losing the exhaust snout and the engine ran fine. I personally believe that without the snout, exhaust will foul the prop reducing performance.

 

[MickLovin]

Re: chrysler 140hp help australia

You gotta be kidding ol Fella I was playing with computers when they still MS DOS , but you are right it is a mircale!
Come over here and stick it to me with your Chrysler knowledge that will f**k me LOL, bloody Americans/Canadians you are all the same cheeky, uncooth rabble, what are we going to do with youz, love my spellin pro-ess.

 

[hrncjar]

Re: chrysler 140hp help australia

 

[hrncjar]

Re: chrysler 140hp help australia

 

[hrncjar]

Re: chrysler 140hp help australia

their you go, pictures of my little beast

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: chrysler 140hp help australia



Serious question. Do you fellows have regulation as to how much horsepower a hull can carry? The reason I ask is because I have seen a number of your hulls which are very small, yet there are big engines on them.

Down to business: Your engine appears to be mounted at the correct height. It is normal to ventilate (you call it cavitation), sometimes quite a bit, in turns, especially if you do not or can not trim the engine down. She makes a lot of noise, revs higher, and the boat slows. Then, when you complete the turn, she locks up again and takes off. Ventilation and cavitation are two different things but ventilation can lead to cavitation.

Now, I see you also have the very old style prop. Back in the late 1970s when Chrysler first designed the one piece lower unit, this was the stock prop and a tailcone was included. Unfortunately, The one piece was designed one inch shorter than the old two piece in an effort to reduce drag and gain some speed. Indeed, the one piece lower unit IS and was about 3 MPH faster than the two piece. HOWEVER, customers complained bitterly because the engines ventilated and cavitated too easily. SO, Chrysler rushed into design and production the "Anti-cavitation" flare washer (Shown with a tailcone in the first photo). This did help some.

SO, in an effort to gain more speed:
1. Remove the wing if the hull does not need it. It is extra drag. Of course, this may cause problem yanking a person out of the water. The hull may go bow high. You need to prioritize here.
2.Change the prop to a newer style and if it is a closed hub prop, use the flare washer and tailcone. Second photo shows the difference between an open hub and closed hub prop. You CAN use a flare washer on some, but not all open hub props.
3. Stay with stainless steel props. Generally, in the same design and pitch, they run about 200 RPM faster. Experiment with aluminum because they are cheaper. Then, when you find the sweet one, go to stainless.
4. lastly, as I said before, keep an open mind about props. You can use many Mercury props AND many other props can be re-hubbed to fit Chrysler propshafts. see next post for photos of re-hubbing at home.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: chrysler 140hp help australia

To re-hub a prop, you need the correct hub, a 6 ton press, and an old bearing race to ease the rubber into the prop hub. Lubricate with soapy water and let sit a day or two before using it. Generally, the old hubs lock in tight and will be damaged when you press them out. Thus they will not be reusable. A new hub that has not been in the prop for too long can be pressed out and reused.

 

[MickLovin]

Re: chrysler 140hp help australia

" Serious question. Do you fellows have regulation as to how much horsepower a hull can carry? The reason I ask is because I have seen a number of your hulls which are very small, yet there are big engines on them."

You taking the **** or what, we ain't some country bumpkin town-ship over here you know, huhmm you did come to the 2000 Olympics here after all! Anyway yes we do have boat max's and yes I personally stick to it as it is 115hp on my particular boat (17ft) can't talk for all Aussies nor American's, but over here we have to have a Hull Identification Number (HIN) which you will only get if it is passenger and HP rated. That's not too say that you just can't swap it over for bigger and possibly get caught
Think you better come over to country bumpkin town and we will taking you real boating, not that placid lake stuff ::lol:
That boat of his could be rated to 140hp, I know my 14.5ft ski boat was rated at 115hp and its 2.5ft shorter than my half cabin.

Fully respect you Frank (silverback man) love your work. Wish I had your toys though. Hey hrncjar, what length is your skie boat anyway, don't worry ill text you , but put the length on here anyway.

Hey BTW we ain't all descended from convicts over here LOL and the ones who were, shouldn't have stolen that bread from the English upper class.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: chrysler 140hp help australia



Here is another one of those small Aussie boats with a big engine. I forget who it was that sent me the photo--It might have been Justind

Now see: Over here most 14 foot boats would be rated for a max of about 60 HP.

And, I know you are all not descended from convicts. As I understand it there are a LOT of good EYE-TALIANS (like me) over there

 

[hrncjar]

Re: chrysler 140hp help australia

hmm i have a 14ft race boat, iv been told from people who see my boat and know what it is.... say i know that kind of boat they use them in nsw for racing and in the 14ft catorgy it still holds the record in that state, they were running a 175hp outboard. with the race specs on it. no idea, i think thats kool and fun.

also when i got my boat it looked great but it was in bad shape. my marine mechanic took a look at it and said sell it asap n said it would cost you a lot of $ to get it the way you want it, little did i know he was right. so long story short i got it rebuilt and strengthened and kept adding crap to it, so far its cost me a wopping 35grand, i know i could have brought something better. didnt have money for a wakesetter at the time so i went with that option.

anywho if it had a hin b4 i started gutting it, it sure as hell dosent have one now. so id have no clue what their rated hp would even be. but when my mate sells his bullet hull im gona borrow his motor and wack it on my boat and take it for a test run see if it handles the weight and if it dose ill buy the motor off him, the motor is merc 200hp 2ltr, should go fast enough. on his bullet boat it dose 72mph/115km fast.

in america i see vids on youtube with massive blown v8's on tinny little hydroplains which i find fun and get idea's but with out an abundance of money to burn i cant follow those idea's

 

[MickLovin]

Re: chrysler 140hp help australia

I think Frank is a bit Jealous of how we live on the edge over here, look at the boat next to it Frank, I bet that black boat has more HP than the one pictured with the 105hp Chrysler. Also think it has to do with it's use, all I know is that mine came with a HP rating of 115hp, I was surprised to hear that no all boats have a hp rating, as I thought they would have to have when the HIN is applied upon registration.