NO---NO---NO---
"Chrysler made two series of 55 engines and two series of 35 engines. The correct series is the 35, 45, 55 series. Incorrect engines would be a 35 from the 20, 25, 35 series or the 55 from the dual carb 55, 60, 65 series.
There is no matching. ANY Chrysler 55 with a single carb can use ANY shaft from a 35 (not the 35 with a 25 block and leg), 45, 55 short shaft engine. Diameter was the same and splines were the same."
Would the model and serial # dictate if you have the correct or incorrect 35 HP Chrysler? I have a Mod. 3555, Ser. 2365, would that be the correct or incorrect and why? I'm missing what make them correct or incorrect. Is it the sequencing of HP that make them correct or incorrect and how is that known (manuals)? Thanks for the explanation.
JOW
Re: Please explain differences in correct/incorrect Chrysler 35/55 series, "Frank men
Well, models numbers would tell you but I don't have them and never really paid attention to them.
The 20, 25, 35 series engines were single carb two cylinder engines with about a 1/2 inch drive shaft. Prop was 9 inches diameter with an 11 spline shaft and a pin drive.
the 35. 45. 55 series engines were also single carb, two cylinder engines. The drive shaft was about 9/16 diameter. Props were 10 3/8 inch with a 13 spline shaft and pin drive.
The 55, 60, 65 engine series as far as I know, were never made in short shaft versions--that is, I have never seen one--But I certainly have not seen them all. They were twin carb two cylinder engines with a 5/8 inch drive shaft. Props were , in the early units, the same as the 10 inch props for the 35, 45, 55 and later units had a closed hub 15 spline prop with a thrust washer Just like the later larger Force engines.
So: Ask what size the prop was and most likely you will get the correct shaft.
Hope that helps some.
Re: Please explain differences in correct/incorrect Chrysler 35/55 series, "Frank men
Thanks For The Good Helpful Info! I?ll save the info. I know I have 2 cylinders and one carb but feel I see an extension in the leg attached making it a long shaft, correct? I feel/know the driveshaft is over ?? and the prop has plenty splines and a pin. Most of all, It has been all I?ve needed since purchasing it in 1985 as a starter and possibly a finisher ?Now?.
JOW
Re: Please explain differences in correct/incorrect Chrysler 35/55 series, "Frank men
Just guessing here, But by the looks of it, you would have a 35,45,55 series.
http://gallery.computervitals.com/ma...r1=Chrysler55/
There's my 55, I have a 1970 and your model number refers to a 1969
If you dont have a prop, a simple count of the splines would confirm.
Re: Please explain differences in correct/incorrect Chrysler 35/55 series, "Frank men
Yep! Thats the 35, 45, 55 series. Bore 3.187 stroke 2.80. 44 cubic inch displacement. There is an extra 1/4 inch plate on the exhaust to give more volume in the exhaust chest. BUT: Everything below the block is the same in all engines as is everything above it.
You have the old style "Hydro-Dart" lower unit, affectionately known as the "Stump-Stabber." I always liked them. It does not appear original but seems in very good condition--perhaps it was refurbished and painted.
From the angle of the photo, it seems that your hull needs the long shaft. You want the cavitation plate even with to slightly above the center Vee.
Re: Please explain differences in correct/incorrect Chrysler 35/55 series, "Frank men
Quote: Originally Posted by Frank Acampora showthread.
Yep! You have the old style "Hydro-Dart" lower unit, affectionately known as the "Stump-Stabber." I always liked them. It does not appear original but seems in very good condition--perhaps it was refurbished and painted.
Thanks for more good info! Is "Stump Stabber" related to the boat being built in East Texas to handle the known stumps in the East Texas Lakes? It has worked the stumps well over the years.
JOW
........BIG help!!!