Cobra ESA, Interrupter Switch, or Cable?

[sundowner205]

Hi guys...i'm a little confused here...i have an 1989 Four Winns with a 5.7 Cobra. I recently began experiencing extremely hard shifting but INTO gear. Yesterday the boat actually stalled out twice while attempting to shift into gear with the throttle almost pegged. The engine runs perfectly once in gear. I read the Hastings site yet i still have a couple of questions...

1] I read on other posts that the ESA is used primarily to get the engine OUT of gear and i have no problem with shifting into neutral, however the OMC service bulletin herehttp://www.hastings.org/~stuart/cobra/sb4038.jpg states that a bad ESA will cause hard shifting...if so does the ESA not assist in getting the boat INTO gear as well? so can i rule out the ESA or no?

2] If the ESA is not bad then what is the possibility that it is the shift interrupter switch?

I'm pretty sure the lower shift cable is good because when out of the water the boat goes into gear with no problem...could the shift interrupter switch be sticking causing the ESA to stay activated and thereby stalling the boat?

I tested the interrupter switch last nite per the Factory Manual - it does drop the RPM's to about 500, however, if held for more than 6 or 7 seconds the engine actually stalls. I then took it for a run, and it seems that if I just slightly put her into gear without alot of force it engages, but very slowly - takes about 5 seconds or so...

So - bad ESA?...bad interrupter or overstroke switch? or perhaps the lower cable? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Cobra ESA, Interrupter Switch, or Cable?

In theory, the ESA is only used when coming out of gear. This would assume a properly working new shift cable. My experience with my Cobra when I used to have it was that the ESA would also engage occasionally going into gear.

There is a newer ESA available that does not use the overstroke switch. It basically uses a timer that only allows the ESA to function a set amount of time.

What I would do is make sure you really don't need a new shift cable, make sure the micro switches and cable are in proper adjustment. When you pull your drive annually, make sure the area where the bellcrank is located is free of gunk and lubricated. There was also a kit that OMC put out in later years that replaced the bushing that the bellcrank rode in to one that had a grease fitting on it. This allowed you to fill the whole cavity that the bellcrank was in with grease. This kept all sorts of gunk from forming, especially if the boat is used in salt water.