Compatibility/parts

[Fraziermotorsports]

Hey guys- a question for all you experts.

I have a 1985 force 85. Thanks to this forum, I now have a great running motor.

My question is-- I have found a Craigslist special (lol)-- a 1989 Force 125.

here is the add.............


"I have a 1989 Force outboard. 125hp 2stroke.

motor ran great till last trip last season..

carbs rebuilt, new plugs and fresh fluids.

compression tests ..... cylinders 1,2 and 4 were at 145 cylinder 3 was only at 85. causing it to cut out in low RPM's

need to sell asap best offer takes it.. comes with throttle, and throttle cable steering cable. "


ok, so the guy is asking $300.00. it's been on CL for about 6 weeks. I was thinking of offering $200.00.

I am fairly sure that the lower unit is compatible. Am I right?

I thought it would be a good parts deal if the cables, lower unit, etc would interchange.

I also thought I might tear down the power head and rebuild it.(down the road later) I just rebuilt the floor and transom on the bayliner, and I have no doubt my boat could handle the extra weight and power. (I am aware of the coast guard, and insurance issues)

So I guess the question is, should I grab this motor for parts? Is it compatible?

Thanks guys!!

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Compatibility/parts

Just about everything except head, carbs, and trigger is swappable so for a parts engine it is worth the 200 you are going to offer. 300? It's a stretch since you already know the engine does not run (well). If you really want it? ---You need to assume that the low cylinder is going to need reboring AND you also need to assume that the engine will not run. They ALL ran when they were stored.

For playing around? If it appears in decent cosmetic condition, then figure about 300 bucks for rebuilding with only one piston, additional 135 for each additional piston. (parts)

For 200 bucks it would be a good way to get your feet wet, and a cheap way to get the larger engine block on your boat later.

Regarding all engines that were running when stored: I paid 200 for a 105 Chrysler that was supposed to have been started in the shop. (advertised as a 140). When I got it home---The starter was seized, I replaced it with a good one and later disassembled and freed it.-- It needed a new solenoid, carbs were unsalvageable, and the CD box had frayed wires. I replaced the box rather than fuss with it; fix it later. Before I bought it, I did check the engine for freedom. The block was good and compression was good too. BUT: I got 5 props with it. So even with the parts I replaced, it was still worth it.

For 350 I bought an 85, a 55, and a lower unit from a dealers junk pile. So that should give you an estimate.

 

[Fraziermotorsports]

Re: Compatibility/parts

Thanks for the reply Frank---you always come through for me.

I have a good machine shop that I work with quite a bit, so i'm good to go-- Question though-- Parts. Pistons,bearings,rings, etc. Where is a good source?

I'll go look at it this weekend-- like you said- get my feet wet.

Thanks!!

BTW--what do you think the weight difference is?

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Compatibility/parts

Since everything is the same on both engines with the exception of an extra cylinder, the weight is only about 30 pounds more. The 4 cylinder is just shy of 300 lbs. and I can wrestle one into my pick-up by myself.

As far as parts, impellers and stuff like that is available here on iboats and a bit cheaper than a dealer. For pistons, I use Wiseco because they are a forged piston and they are easier to install than the stock ones. AND---They come with wrist pins, snap rings, and piston rings. I go through the distributor in Ohio but sometimes if you hunt the web, you can find them at a discount.

Rod big end bearings seldom go bad but if you need some, don't go paying 30 bucks a set. I have tons of extra used ones with bearing cages.