Composite Decking for boat floor?

[mp_2008]

Alright. I take it you apply with a brush? As far as mounting. Rivets sound like a good idea with aluminum angle for the platform base but for the floor id rather not put my own rivets that close to the bottom of the boat. Any ideas on how to still use aluminum angle but not have to rivet? Or any other mounting ideas?

 

[mp_2008]

Any suggestions on brand of epoxy resin? I found some on amazon for about $75 for a gallon kit which is pretty cheap. Thoughts? Heres the link:

 

[mp_2008]

Also found this. Can get over a half gallon for about $60. Just dont know whether to use the thicker stuff or thinner? What do you guys think? For some reason the link wont go to the exact page, just click on epoxy resins on the left of the page that the link below takes you to.

 

[mp_2008]

Hey jigngrub, how thin of epoxy do you use? That UScomposites has a thin 635 epoxy that says it hardens to a somewhat flexible coat. Is that too thin?

 

[Chris1956]

Hey Jigngrub, You are entitled to your opinion, however, your opinion has several drawbacks in my opinion. . Just because you think epoxy/plywood and rivets is the only way to go, doesn't make it correct.

The OP is entitled to other points of view, beside yours

 

[jigngrub]

Hey jigngrub, how thin of epoxy do you use? That UScomposites has a thin 635 epoxy that says it hardens to a somewhat flexible coat. Is that too thin?

The 635 with the medium hardener is what I use, good stuff.

 

[jigngrub]

Hey Jigngrub, You are entitled to your opinion, however, your opinion has several drawbacks in my opinion. . Just because you think epoxy/plywood and rivets is the only way to go, doesn't make it correct.

The OP is entitled to other points of view, beside yours

Sorry Chris, didn't mean to offend you.

Your suggestion would work for sure and it would be a lot better than trying to rebuild a fiberglass boat with boiled linseed oil, which I've seen suggested on this site before... but not by you.

 

[mp_2008]

Well, I think I have a good plan going now. I appreciate everyone who has given thier opinion especially you jigngrub. I havent quite decided when Im going to start but it will be soon. Maybe Ill post some pics as the project progresses. Again thanks for all the advice and if anyone has any more ideas or advice dont be afraid to chime in. I still need to figure out mounting and support for the floor but I think thats something I can deal with, afterall I am a Carpenter.

 

[jigngrub]

Well, I think I have a good plan going now. I appreciate everyone who has given thier opinion especially you jigngrub. I havent quite decided when Im going to start but it will be soon. Maybe Ill post some pics as the project progresses. Again thanks for all the advice and if anyone has any more ideas or advice dont be afraid to chime in. I still need to figure out mounting and support for the floor but I think thats something I can deal with, afterall I am a Carpenter.

I'm a carpenter too, and if you'll post some pics of your boat I'll throw a few suggestions at you.

This is what I did to my aluminum Tracker:
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...-repair/521750-97-tracker-pro-deep-v-facelift

 

[mp_2008]

I'm a carpenter too, and if you'll post some pics of your boat I'll throw a few suggestions at you. This is what I did to my aluminum Tracker: http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...-repair/521750-97-tracker-pro-deep-v-facelift

Man, that boat puts my little Jon boat to shame. Nice quality work though. Impressive. Almost embarrassed to post pics of mine. Looking at my pics. though I want to put a floor about a couple inches above the bottom of those seats. I foresee the ribs making it difficult for framing. For the platform I want to go over the front seat to the front of the boat, then down the inner part of the front seat to the floor. Then up each side of the middle and back seats.

 

[REdington]

Back in the late 1970's, I had a 14 foot boat just about like yours and I did basically what you are about to do. After I got it all done and looking great, the 12 HP Johnson that I had would only push it just about on plane where as before the build it would get up and run about 22 to 24 MPH. So if you are really wanting to do this, I suggest you first get a bigger engine. As far as the epoxy that jigngrub suggested, I wouldn't and didn't go to all the much trouble on my Sylvan rebuild. Without a doubt, when I'm done, it'll out last me.
You will need to add stringer to the ribs to support your floor in the middle.
I used the old time, tried and tested one part boiled linseed oil, one part spar varnish, and 2 parts mineral spirits. I applied it till the plywood would not take any more, then 3 days later I applied 4 coats of satin varnish. With the satin varnish you'll have a rough finish that the carpet glue will adhere to.
I think (in my mind anyway and others feel the same way) this method will last almost as long as epoxy and is a lot easier and a lot cheaper. Also if you put any screws or drill holes in the plywood after it is sealed, make sure you use either 3M 4200 or 5200 sealant in the holes or screw. It keeps the plywood sealed and keeps water from getting in the plywood and start the rotting you are trying to protect it from.

 

[mp_2008]

Back in the late 1970's, I had a 14 foot boat just about like yours and I did basically what you are about to do. After I got it all done and looking great, the 12 HP Johnson that I had would only push it just about on plane where as before the build it would get up and run about 22 to 24 MPH. So if you are really wanting to do this, I suggest you first get a bigger engine. As far as the epoxy that jigngrub suggested, I wouldn't and didn't go to all the much trouble on my Sylvan rebuild. Without a doubt, when I'm done, it'll out last me. You will need to add stringer to the ribs to support your floor in the middle. I used the old time, tried and tested one part boiled linseed oil, one part spar varnish, and 2 parts mineral spirits. I applied it till the plywood would not take any more, then 3 days later I applied 4 coats of satin varnish. With the satin varnish you'll have a rough finish that the carpet glue will adhere to. I think (in my mind anyway and others feel the same way) this method will last almost as long as epoxy and is a lot easier and a lot cheaper. Also if you put any screws or drill holes in the plywood after it is sealed, make sure you use either 3M 4200 or 5200 sealant in the holes or screw. It keeps the plywood sealed and keeps water from getting in the plywood and start the rotting you are trying to protect it from.

Man, now you have me thinking this is going to add to much weight and is a bad idea. Getting a bigger motor isnt in the budget and the 9.9 i have now runs flawlessly. Not to mention I overpaid a bit for the package because it is exactly what I wanted and planned on building this floor and platform. I really want the floor damn it... idk what to do now.

 

[jbcurt00]

I'd USE the boat. Once you start using one, the motivation to work on one falls to the wayside quite a bit.

I've never understand the motivation for all the added work and weight anyway, esp in a 14ft'r.

The difference between a just barely 14ft and even a 15ft tin boat can be significant. Go to a 16ft & you'll have plenty of room for a nice flat deck, seats (pedestal or other), storage, forward casting deck AND possibly a windscreen to protect the Admiral That'd be in a console boat, but even a 16ft semi-v open bench boat like what you have now, would still seem huge compared to your 14ft'r. Esp in width.

I'll be using epoxy on any an all plywood for all my aluminum boat builds, there are a few

Run what you've got this summer and early fall. And start to squirrel away some boat funds. If you decide you can't stand the semi-v hull underfoot, SELL it at the start of the spring season. Once it gets to be November in most of the US 15-18ft tin boat projects will become much more plentiful & cheaper then they are now.

So you'd be a 2 boat household from the time you bring the project boat home until you sell the current boat. Or once you can't be using the 14ft'r, you could sell it before buying a bigger boat, but if you don't finish it this winter you'll be boatless. And more importantly, you'll likely sell it at a discount rather then a premium at the start of the spring season.

 

[mp_2008]

Thanks for the advice but Im committed to this boat at this point. I fish with it almost every other day since I live on a small lake and I really dont want to go any bigger. No matter what Im going to put the platform up front since that cant add any more than 20-25 lbs to the boat with the way Im going to do it. Now the floor, ive been reading about high density foam stringers covered in fiberglass so that could substantially reduce weight as far as stringers go. The only thing would be the plywood itself that would be the big weight addition. I just wish there was something else I could use instead. Wait... i was just thinking. What if i built molds out of wood the width, length and height of my floor plan, so one at about 4'x33"x4-6" and another at 4'x30"x4-6". Then filled with high density foam you pour yourself . Pull that out of the mold and then coated the top with a few layers of fiberglass and then covered with carpet. Wouldnt that be light as hell compared to plywood be yet be structurally sound? I would obviously have to use something to keep it from sticking to the mold and would have to form the foam to fit the bottom of the boat but seems like it would work to me? Thoughts?

 

[mp_2008]

Okay, ive been looking at some poly high density foam from US composites and they have 8lb density that weighs about 8 lbs per cubic foot. With the sizes i stated id only need about 1.3cubic feet for each of the 2 sections of floor. That would put me at just over 10 lbs in foam per section. Add fiberglass/resin and carpet and i dont see more than 15 lbs a section. So that would be 30 lbs worth of flooring... and thats if i go with that wide of a floor. They even have lighter and heavier foams but 8 sound like it would be perfect almost tempted to try the 4 lb and throw a extra layer or 2 of fiberglass on it.

 

[REdington]

I like your idea of using foam. You could lay in foam like this





and put a 1" piece over the top for the floor with glass on that.

 

[mp_2008]

Im glad Im not the only one that thinks thats a decent idea. I was expecting reasons as to why that wouldnt work. But i was thinking of using the foam you pour yourself so it could be one solid piece. I'd make molds to the rough shape of what i need, pour it remove from the mold and then carve it to a more exact shape. Heck I could even take a drill and a 1" paddle bit and drill a bunch off holes up through the bottom of the foam about 1/2-3/4 of the way through to reduce weight even more. I am wondering if the 4lb foam would suffice with the fiberglass over it. I havent really worked with fiberglass so i wouldnt really know. If you get a chance click on my link for UScomposites in one of my comments on page 2 of this thread and then click on the poly foam link on the left. You'll see all the different weights poly foams they have. Let me know which you think would work while also being the lightest. Id post a link here but i cant get it to work right for some reason.

 

[jbcurt00]

The engineered foam/poly resin stringers? In an aluminum boat?

Drill holes in the pour in foam and it is no longer closed cell. Plus now it's susceptible to absorbing any water it comes in contact with

Some foam reacts to the styrene in poly resin and melts it just like gas does

Build a foredeck if you wish, but I'd still rather be using the boat then spending time trying to build molds or mock up and pour foam into some shape or another for a deck between the benches

Don't forget to include some way to fasten the deck down so that it's actually part of the boat, not just sitting in the boat

 

[mp_2008]

Your entitled to your opinion but i dont really agree with it. Like I said I use the boat already all the time. Went out on my lake a few hours last night. You make it sound like this is some massive project that will take a lot of money and time when in actuality it wont. Actually will be pretty simple. I do more in a day or two as a carpenter than what this would take so its not as big of a deal as you make it sound. There are reasons i want the deck. One, I hate it when my fishing buddy or I drop something onto the aluminum bottom and it makes that loud thud noise, especially when sight fishing. This would eliminate that. It would also save on the ankles when standing or moving from say the back bench to the platform. Also, with the current semi-V bottom, everything that is set in the boat such as tackle boxes wants to makes its way to the middle. With the deck you could put the tackle box off the the side next to the side hull of the boat and it would stay there. As for fastening I really dont see a need. My brother put a deck in his 12 ft. Deep-v last year, building it to shape and then setting it in there. It does not move and makes it easy to remove. Albeit was out of wood, you get my point. I appreciate the advice about drilling the holes but disagree with you on most everything else you said. I dont have the budget or the need for a bigger boat with a bigger motor like a lot of you guys, this is what I could afford and for what I use it for is sufficient and Ill be a very happy camper once I get my floor and platform in.

 

[mp_2008]

Well I did the math wrong on the weight of the foam. The weight will be about double what I calculated for the 8 lb density. But I didnt think about the fact that the foam wont be 4-6 inches thick all from side to side but only in the middle and will gradually get thinner to each side since it is a semi V shape. So it will be lighter than what I calculated after its doubled. The more I think though I might go with the 4 lb density and through a couple extra layers of fiberglass and resin. Anyone have experience with different density foams and can give any advice?