Control Shifter Problems

Banner Pub

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Oct 17, 2012
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I have a 1999 Johnson 115 Oceanrunner. It runs perfectly. I have one problem that needs correcting. When in Neutral the engine starts like it should. When I shift to forward, it runs fine and does go to 5500 rpms. When I come back to neutral it stays in forward gear. I have to go past Neutral detent quite far to get engine in neutral. When I start engine in neutral and shift to reverse I have to move lever very far to engage reverse and I hear a little gear grind. I have almost no throttle left to back up boat. There is an arm in the control unit with two holes that the shifter cable attaches. Could this be the problem? It is presently in the upper hole. Also I know there is adjustments on the other end of the cables. I need help with this adjustment. Thanks
 

boobie

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Re: Control Shifter Problems

I do believe the cable should be in the inner hole. I'm sure I'll be corrected if I'm wrong.
 

Banner Pub

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Re: Control Shifter Problems

I do believe the cable should be in the inner hole. I'm sure I'll be corrected if I'm wrong.

Yes boobie the cable is in the inner hole. I thought maybe it is wrong because I have to shift very far past Neutral to get into reverse. I suppose the problem is at the other end. Do you know how to adjust the cables attached to the engine?
 

Chris1956

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Re: Control Shifter Problems

There is a plastic cover over the cable adjustment. It is removed with a phillips screwdriver. There is a bolt that holds the trunion clamp over the throttle and shift cables. Remove the bolt and the clamp and turn the shift cable adjustment (control in neutral), until the gearcase is centered in neutral, and the trunion fits the clamp.
 

boobie

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Re: Control Shifter Problems

Your first post said it was in the upper hole.
 

Banner Pub

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Re: Control Shifter Problems

Your first post said it was in the upper hole.

The upper hole is the inner hole. The connecting arm hangs almost straight down. I did find a solution for this problem on another forum. First put control (on console) shifter arm in neutral. Disconnect clamp holding both cables under engine cover. Disconnect shifter cable from shifter arm (remove cotter pin and flat washer) and pull off shifter cable from shifter arm stud. Pull out "nut" from recessed slot that was under "clamp". Get in boat and move shifter forward to full throttle. Go back to engine and reinstall cable on to shifter rod (also flat washer and cotter pin). Adjust "nut" by turning "round wheel" moving nut back (or forward) and lining up with the slot so that nut fits good. Reinstall the clamp holding both cables. Go back in boat and shift to neutral (check, spin prop to make sure you are in neutral). The bottom cable is the shifter cable. I ran the boat on my garden hose and it works perfect. I have one more problem. The engine idles to high. It is idiling at about 1000 rpms. I'll start a new post for this problem. Thanks for your help.
 

boobie

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Re: Control Shifter Problems

Just to clarify something. When speaking of hole position, the hole closest to the pivot point of the arm is the inner hole.
 
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Re: Control Shifter Problems

I have one more problem. The engine idles to high. It is idiling at about 1000 rpms.

When you say the engine idles at 1000 rpm is that with the boat in the water, underway, and engine idling in gear? (That's how idle speed is specified).
 

Banner Pub

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Re: Control Shifter Problems

Yes boobie, you are correct. That is where the cable is connected.
 

Banner Pub

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Re: Control Shifter Problems

I am sorry for an INCORRECT PREVIOUS POST about my Control Shifter Problem. I have a new friend "JACK" who is a retired Johnson Outboard Mechanic. He goes to Florida for the winter and usually does not return calls while there. I called him about this problem and he didn't return my call. I went on the internet to find the solution. I posted an adjustment I found on another site the "did work" on the hose in my yard. But when I put boat in the River it was "Far Out of Adjustment". I called Jack again and he answered. He told me the following. Disconnect both cables "on the engine". Move shifter control handle (on console) full forward, then full backward AND stop in Neutral. Turn Prop by hand to Verify Engine is in Neutral. Then reinstall cables on engine. Adjust "NUT" forward or backward to fit "easily" into detent slot for nut. Reinstall Bracket over "NUTS" and you should be good to go. I DID AND IT WORKS GOOD. My rpms are as follows. In the water (in neutral) 950, (in gear) 900. The tach is new about one month old. It is not digital, so these numbers could be a little off. I still get a little grinding noise when shifting into gear and wonder if my IDLE is a little high. (Forgot to ask Jack) The engine is 13 years old. Is this normal?
 
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Re: Control Shifter Problems

In the water (in neutral) 950, (in gear) 900. The tach is new about one month old. It is not digital, so these numbers could be a little off. I still get a little grinding noise when shifting into gear and wonder if my IDLE is a little high.

As I recall the idle is supposed to be 650 - 850 (I might be just a hair off on that as I'm going by memory) in gear, so it sounds like yours is just a bit on the high side.

As far as shifting, do you try to let it ease into gear? That's not the way to do it since that'll let the gears sit there and grind while you're taking your time moving the shift lever. The proper way to shift is a good firm movement to get the shifting done quickly.
 

Chris1956

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Re: Control Shifter Problems

Banner, That RPM is a bit high, but not real high. Make sure the throttle is pushed closed by the throttle cable. If it is, then it is likely the idle timing is a bit too advanced.
 

Banner Pub

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Oct 17, 2012
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Re: Control Shifter Problems

Thanks for all your replys. I do shift into gear very slowly. I tried shifting "firm and quick" and no more grind. Thanks!! The only reason I thought the rpm was high was because of the grinding in gear. I'll check the throttle linkage to see if there is any play in it. Great Forum, love it!!
 
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