Cost/Effort of interior refurbish

[Woodonglass]

As with ALL threads, It's NOT just about your build. There are Hundreds, Maybe thousands of others that will stop by and read the comments and suggestions made here, and IF they are incorrect and unsafe, they might take them as GOSPEL and then do the same unsafe practices and cause themselves a lot of problems. We have an obligation to you and a lot of others to always "Tell it Like it is"!! You, and all others, on the other hand, have the choice, to do with it as you see fit. No one is going to make you do it one way or the other. If you don't agree then ignore it and move on. Any one else can take it for what it's worth as well and who knows, they might agree with your point of view too. But at least this way they will have that the ability to hear the two opposing points of view.

 

[nola mike]

My point was not that I would slap it back together, but that I wouldn't put my time and money into a30 year old boat, and would get a new one. The car example was that I would put a ton of money into a car that wasn't worth it. The questions I asked were never answered. But whatever. My idea of fun is dunking my kids in 3 year old gas and going to a marshmallow roast.

 

[Woodonglass]

I beg to differ. I went back and reviewed all of your posts and I can't find one question that you asked that wasn't answered. Maybe Not the answer you wanted but everyone was addressed. I'm sure your Kids are very amused with your attempt at humor!!!:distress:

 

[nola mike]

I beg to differ. I went back and reviewed all of your posts and I can't find one question that you asked that wasn't answered.

1. Floor. Looks like this stuff (Tuff Coat) would fit the bill. Can prep the wood and apply fairly easily it seems. This is the type of thing I'm looking for. Any alternative products? I'll probably need 2 gallons I'm guessing.
2. Seats. I like something like this for the 2 chairs up front. I'm thinking I could find some combination of these types of seats to do the rear bench. I have to measure to see if that would work. Will pontoon seats work? I couldn't find too much here about having done it.Here's a pic of one guy who did a 4winns. This is basically what I'm going for.
1. Currently there is just carpet stuck on plywood. Looks like most here lay fiberglass on top of the plywood?

 

[wilkboater]

I'm currently researching flooring options, options for Tuff Coat that I've found are Grizzly Grip, and Kiwi Grip. Grizzly Grip is for truck beds, but they mention boat decks, and Kiwi Grip calls itself "non-skid deck coating system developed by New Zealand yachtsmen specifically for use on boats". Both look like good options; I have no experience with either one, I only know what the internet tells me. If you use any of these, post your results please.

 

[nola mike]

I've seen a couple of options. Evercoat skid no more is another product I've seen. It's a latex acrylic, nice because it's tintable. I like the idea of a 2 part epoxy if it's going to be the primary surface on top of the ply.

 

[Woodonglass]

Yup the Moderator addressed those in Post#13. Your links aren't allowed and he addressed your seating issues. Once again It's Your boat and you can do what you want. If it works for you...It works!!!! You've already told us we don't know what we're talking about!!!

 

[nola mike]

I amended the links in #14. The questions were not answered. I have no idea if you know what you're talking about. I do know that you haven't helped me in the least, and seem intent on just trolling this thread, making it less likely that I'll actually get some useful information from others. My fault for feeding the troll I guess.

 

[Woodonglass]

I do know that you haven't helped me in the least,



Hmmm You're absolutely RIGHT!! I got too wrapped up in the safety issues and forgot about the rest. I apologize!!!

1. Floor. Looks like this stuff (Tuff Coat) would fit the bill. Can prep the wood and apply fairly easily it seems. This is the type of thing I'm looking for. Any alternative products? I'll probably need 2 gallons I'm guessing.
2. Seats. I like something like this for the 2 chairs up front. I'm thinking I could find some combination of these types of seats to do the rear bench. I have to measure to see if that would work. Will pontoon seats work? I couldn't find too much here about having done it.Here's a pic of one guy who did a 4winns. This is basically what I'm going for.
1. Currently there is just carpet stuck on plywood. Looks like most here lay fiberglass on top of the plywood?

1.) Products like Tuff Coat Bedliner are NOT usually recommended by the members here on iBoats. Experience tells us that it chips and peels and then allows water to penetrate to the wood core below. I like to Glass the deck and then either paint it and use Playground sand mixed in the paint to give it a non skid surface or they make an additive called Soft Sand to put in the paint thats basically a Rubber Sand. Either works well. You can also just roll on Gelcoat and that leaves it's own natural textured surface that's very durable. Gelcoat IS a porous material and will stain very readily. You can seal it but if you do it can become kind of slick which is not good for a deck. You can also put down DuraDeck Grids. That's my personal preference. Cost about $2.50 per sq. ft and work Great and look Great. Might not work for your budget.Typical deck for a 16' boat runs about $150-200 You still need to glass the deck. You can easily cut and trim them to fit around seats, ski locker openings etc...Water runs thru the grid and drains to the bilge in the back. Easy on the feet too!!!

2.) Pontoon seats are Made for Pontoon Boats. They generally have a higher center of gravity (Taller Bases)since stabiilty issues on a pontoon boat are not an issue. You might be able to modify them to make them work for your situation. That's totally your call..

3.) True We always recommend that All wood surfaces on a fiberglass boat be coated with resin and Glass. This might be of interest...Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms

If you have further questions and have Pics or links that work I'm sure any of us will be glad to help.

By the way, I AM just an Old Dumb Okie soooo you should always question any advice I give.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Here's a thread that discusses the use of several types of one-part bedliner-type rubbery applications. You might find it useful.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...lding-and-hull-repair/658988-durabak-any-good

 

[snowman246]

I will chime in and tell you the full repair and replacement of stingers, deck and transom only cost me about 3 weeks and about $500. That is a small price to pay for piece of mind that I now have a NEW BOAT. Trust me, you have more damage!!!!! I thought mine only had a small amount of rot. My stingers were rotten and only took out about 6" pieces that were not wet sawdust. The transom, flaked off the boat hull in chunks. I removed my transom in less than an hour using a chisel and hammer.

​Don't put a put a bandaid on something that needs stitches. I will tell you this, if your Glastron was made like mine, I'm pretty sure it was, your stingers were overlaid with glass. The glass is in good shape but what you cant see underneath is what is dangerous.

My wife and kids, along with every other boating family on the lake, deserves to be around safe boats. This is why I went the extra step to rebuild it all.

Its your boat and you can do what you want. Just remember this, if an accident occurs, and you are found at fault, you are liable for everything!!! Coast Guard and Lake Patrol does NOT play around with safety issues.

 

[nola mike]

1.) Products like Tuff Coat Bedliner are NOT usually recommended by the members here on iBoats. Experience tells us that it chips and peels and then allows water to penetrate to the wood core below. I like to Glass the deck and then either paint it and use Playground sand mixed in the paint to give it a non skid surface or they make an additive called Soft Sand to put in the paint thats basically a Rubber Sand. Either works well. You can also just roll on Gelcoat and that leaves it's own natural textured surface that's very durable. Gelcoat IS a porous material and will stain very readily. You can seal it but if you do it can become kind of slick which is not good for a deck. You can also put down DuraDeck Grids. That's my personal preference. Cost about $2.50 per sq. ft and work Great and look Great. Might not work for your budget.Typical deck for a 16' boat runs about $150-200 You still need to glass the deck. You can easily cut and trim them to fit around seats, ski locker openings etc...Water runs thru the grid and drains to the bilge in the back. Easy on the feet too!!!

I've read posts going both ways on this. Gluvit is another product that looks like it would do the job of waterproofing the deck. Those grids look like a nice option.

2.) Pontoon seats are Made for Pontoon Boats. They generally have a higher center of gravity (Taller Bases)since stabiilty issues on a pontoon boat are not an issue. You might be able to modify them to make them work for your situation. That's totally your call..

Yeah, that was my concern. I'll take some measurements and see if they'd work.

3.) True We always recommend that All wood surfaces on a fiberglass boat be coated with resin and Glass. This might be of interest...Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms

Read through that thread earlier. My boat had nothing by ply and carpet for 30 years. Obviously, glassing it in would be the best solution, but time constraints def won't let me do that, and I'm confident enough in my glass abilities to know that it will look terrible. Is there anything roll on that would do a passable if not perfect job? Figure anything would be better than carpet anyway, and wouldn't hold the water against the deck like carpet.

If you have further questions and have Pics or links that work I'm sure any of us will be glad to help.

By the way, I AM just an Old Dumb Okie soooo you should always question any advice I give.

Thanks.
​

I will chime in and tell you the full repair and replacement of stingers, deck and transom only cost me about 3 weeks and about $500.

Yeah, I've been following that thread. Looks like your boat was pretty significantly neglected for years though. As I said, I'm hoping that isn't the case with my boat. 3 weeks in my world wouldn't be worth the subsequent divorce...
How did you discover the stringer damage? Was the transom obvious?

 

[nola mike]

Oh, can the gelcoat just be applied over the ply? Never gel coated before, so I'd have to look into that. Maybe that + those grids, or that + a non-slip coating would be the way to go.

 

[Woodonglass]

gelcoat MUST be applied over polyester fiberglass. It won't adhere to bare plywood.

Gluvit is just a specially formulated Epoxy product mainly used in aluminum boats.

It's not recommended to have bare plywood decks in a fiberglass boat. However If that's the direction you want to go then the least expensive route would be to use this...

and then 2-3 coats of Rustoleum Oil Based Paint. If you added some playground sand to the paint this would give you a long lasting non skid surface that looks good. If you're careful about maintenance and upkeep it shoud last quite awhile.

You could also just seal the wood with epoxy and then paint it. that would prolly cost appox. $200 for epoxy and paint.

 

[nola mike]

gelcoat MUST be applied over polyester fiberglass. It won't adhere to bare plywood.

Gluvit is just a specially formulated Epoxy product mainly used in aluminum boats.

It's not recommended to have bare plywood decks in a fiberglass boat. However If that's the direction you want to go then the least expensive route would be to use this...

and then 2-3 coats of Rustoleum Oil Based Paint. If you added some playground sand to the paint this would give you a long lasting non skid surface that looks good. If you're careful about maintenance and upkeep it shoud last quite awhile.

You could also just seal the wood with epoxy and then paint it. that would prolly cost appox. $200 for epoxy and paint.

Both look like they'd fit my needs. Is this just regular 'ol epoxy? How would that be different than a 2 part epoxy paint?

 

[Woodonglass]

A Lot. Epoxy Paint is just that...Paint. Very thin and NOT that durable. Just cuz it says epoxy doesn't mean it will be durable like true epoxy. True Epoxy is very durable goes on much thicker. Main draw back is that it is NOT UV tolerable and MUST be Painted over. Most Epoxy paints are the same way. Weird huh Epoxy paint but can't be used for Direct sunlight applications. Some of them can but the Epoxy Garage floor and Porch Paints can't. No UV in them. You still have the issue of tabbing the deck to the sides of the hull. This is a Must!!!

 

[nola mike]

I'd probably be more comfortable with that solution, although I don't guess that epoxy is a whole lot more forgiving than resin/glass, esp if I have to tab. Do you tab in with glass mat? FWIW though, the Tuff Coat spec sheet says that it's UV resistant.

 

[Woodonglass]

Yup, Tuff Coat is UV resistant. But again, the deck on a glass boat needs to be tabbed to the sides of the hull.. Either with Epoxy and glass or poly resin and glass.

 

[snowman246]

I only found my stingers were gone when I cut a notch out and inspected. The transom was easy to diagnose....I stabbed a screwdriver through the old transom about 1 inch first try. If it's tore down that far, just replace it for the peace of mind.

 

[nola mike]

Ok, so finally took some core samples. 6 on the transom, 4 as aft and low as I could get on the stringers, another 4 where the damage to the floor was in the locker. Last was on the remaining plywood decking; i was surprised that there was no foam under there; guess the stuff under the seats was it. I actually think I'm in good shape. Transom seemed solid. The wood was reddish but dry. Hard to tell because the bilge grease got on the shavings. The color looked the same as the large hole I put through the decking. That I'm sure was dry. Likewise, the stringers are definitely not rotted. Weird construction. The floor in the middle didn't appear to be connected to the sides, nor did it appear to have glass on it (I threw it out though, so can't confirm). The sides have a thin layer of glass in the middle, appears thicker on the sides where it's tabbed. At this point, I'm thinking I can replace just that middle section give it either a glass or epoxy coating and carry on my way. Thoughts? This post will have transom shavings, next stringers, third deck/overall pics.