Couple Questions about new boat w/ 120hp Force. Help would be appreciated.

[DustininMN]

New boat owner here.. Have a 95' Bayliner with a 120hp Force Motor, not sure if the motor is original or not. I was told that I need a new bilge pump, and a lower end unit seal (think that's what it was called). Hoping someone could direct me to the parts I need?? Please forgive me for my lack of knowledge on the subject. I included a link to a picture of the boat/motor, hoping this is sufficient. I would greatly appreciate any help that anyone can give me. Thanks a lot!

 

[SkiDad]

a bilge pump is inside the boat at the back of the boat near the drain - that gets water out of your boat if you take any in. You can check this by a switch in the dash - you should be able to hear it if you turn it on.

I'm guessing they meant you need a new water pump in the lower unit. Usually the water pump just needs a new impeller installed. A good idea to do since you don't know how long it was in there - we usually replace ours every 3 years.

If you check the oil in your lower unit and it has a milky look to it or water in it then the seals are bad and you need to have some of those replaced so it doesn't continue to take in water. While you are at it you should change the gear oil even if there is no water present.

if you are unsure how to tackle these things a marine shop should be able to do both of these for you.

 

[DustininMN]

Thanks a lot for the reply. I really appreciate it. Ya the guy I bought the boat pointed out where the bilge pump was. It was between the seats in an area that has a piece of upholstery sort of buttoned to it. That looked like it would be super easy to replace. Looked like it just needed a hose in and a hose out hooked up and a few wires.. So I think I could handle that.. I just need to try to figure out which one to get.. It's an 18' Bayliner.. Any idea as to what one I'd need?

Also, the guy that I hired to winterize the boat last winter (bought it at the end of last season) is the one who mentioned me needing the lower unit seal.. The guy I bought the boat from was old and had it stored for 5+ years.. The guy that did the winterization said it was pretty common to need to do this when they sit that long.. Any idea as to what seal or seal kit I'd need? I included a link to a picture.. I would have included the exact model number of the motor, but it's stored at a friends house currently so I didn't have easy access to that info..

Again, thank you for taking the time to help me out.

 

[roscoe]

Bilge pump generally has only an outlet hose.
Pump must sit in the lowest point in the bilge to pick up any water.
Pump will not suck up any water, it will only pump water that enters the pump.

The "lower unit seal" is pretty vague.

There is a seal on top where the driveshaft enters the gearcase.
Also one where the shift shaft enters the gearcase.
And one where the prop shaft comes out the back.
And a sealing gasket on each of the drain and vent screws - these are flat slotted screws.

Do not ever remove the phillips head screw ! ! !

All the seals are pretty easy to replace, except the prop shaft seal, which will require a special puller, or some ingenuity.

It could be that all you need are the gaskets on the screws.
I say, change the gear oil and replace the gaskets on the screws.
Then use the motor a time or two, several hours.
Let it sit over night.
Then remove the drain screw and let a little lube drain out and see if it water contaminated.

Always use new gaskets on these screws.


If it turns out that you need to replace the actual seals, seal kits are readily available, just provide the model number of the motor and we can steer you toward the correct parts.

 

[DustininMN]

Roscoe thank you for the helpful info. I'm sure you're right about the one inlet on the pump.. It's been since last September that I looked at it, so I was thinking it was 2 of them.

Any idea as to what pump I should get? Should I try to find the exact make model of the one I have, or will any make/model due as long as it's rated for my size of boat? Again, please forgive me I'm a rookie. Again the boat is a 95' 18' Bayliner with a 120 horse Force motor. If you aren't sure, I understand. I'm gonna try to go pick it up out of my buddies garage this weekend, so if anything I can post a couple pictures once I get over there..

As for the info on the seals.. I had no idea their were that many or that I was being vague.. I know the guy pointed to the bottom part of the motor where the bottom of the motor housing sort of meets the part that has the prop on it... Maybe that is even more confusing.. But I will take your advise and give it a shot to see..

Thanks a lot! Appreciate the help.

 

[redneck joe]

Welcome tonthe forum, and to boating.

Any will do get at least 800 ghp (gallons per hour)

You dont need to winterize and outboard, so don't ever pay for that again.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The bilge pump: Like the others said,any size will work.
Take out the old and see what kind and get the same if possible.
The boats kept on a trailer so you don't need anything fancy.
They sell 3500gal pumps, auto sensor pumps and a bunch you don't need.
Just a standard pump will work.
My boat the pump is in an enclosed area and you can't easily get to it. It has a float switch which turns the pump when the water gets deep enough to float the switch.
If your boat takes on more water than it should ?? maybe switch a will be needed.

The lower unit seal probably doesn't need to be replaced.
Get a manual, factory is best.

Try to find someone who can go with you and explain the different systems.
Lots of times at marinas a service tech or even a salesman will go with you.$$

 

[Jiggz]

I would not worry about the so called lower unit seal until you at least try running the boat. You mentioned, it was in storage for more than 5 years. This means the water impeller needs to be replaced and also the lower unit gear oil. Additionally, you need to pull the spark plugs, spray fuel oil mix (50:1) into each cylinder and also inspect the spark plugs for fouling before starting it for the first time. Personally, I'll just replace all the plugs for they're very cheap.

Since you're a rookie (no pun intended) you might want to make a short video of the motor running on muffs or on the water just to have it seen in here to find out if it is running properly. Again, no pun intended, but there have been many cases where others cannot even tell if the motor is firing on all cylinders or only half of the cylinders and continue to complain not being able to reach designed speed and rpm.

 

[DustininMN]

Welcome tonthe forum, and to boating.

Any will do get at least 800 ghp (gallons per hour)

You dont need to winterize and outboard, so don't ever pay for that again.

Thank you for the welcome. Happy to have found this page. Nice to know that I have somewhere to turn with any questions that come up.. Thanks for the tip on the pump too. Appreciate it.

 

[DustininMN]

The bilge pump: Like the others said,any size will work.
Take out the old and see what kind and get the same if possible.
The boats kept on a trailer so you don't need anything fancy.
They sell 3500gal pumps, auto sensor pumps and a bunch you don't need.
Just a standard pump will work.
My boat the pump is in an enclosed area and you can't easily get to it. It has a float switch which turns the pump when the water gets deep enough to float the switch.
If your boat takes on more water than it should ?? maybe switch a will be needed.

The lower unit seal probably doesn't need to be replaced.
Get a manual, factory is best.

Try to find someone who can go with you and explain the different systems.
Lots of times at marinas a service tech or even a salesman will go with you.$$

Thanks for the reply. Appreciate it. The pump seemed fairly easy to get at, so it should be fairly easy for me to get it out to determine the make/model of it. Thanks again!

 

[DustininMN]

I would not worry about the so called lower unit seal until you at least try running the boat. You mentioned, it was in storage for more than 5 years. This means the water impeller needs to be replaced and also the lower unit gear oil. Additionally, you need to pull the spark plugs, spray fuel oil mix (50:1) into each cylinder and also inspect the spark plugs for fouling before starting it for the first time. Personally, I'll just replace all the plugs for they're very cheap.

Since you're a rookie (no pun intended) you might want to make a short video of the motor running on muffs or on the water just to have it seen in here to find out if it is running properly. Again, no pun intended, but there have been many cases where others cannot even tell if the motor is firing on all cylinders or only half of the cylinders and continue to complain not being able to reach designed speed and rpm.

Thanks for the reply. No offense taken at all. I think I just need to find a shop to go through the boat after hearing this stuff too. I don't mind spending a little cash, just want to try to take care of it and to have it running as good as it can for it's age.. I will definitely plan to do the plugs and other stuff you mentioned. Thanks again!