Coupler Problem

[JimS123]

Brand new trailer, 3rd time on the highway. First time I ever owned a trailer with brakes.

I replaced the oem pin that goes thru the coupler with a locking pin. The oem is solid, the locking pin has grooves every so often to accomodate different coupler widths. When I unhitched today the pin was bent in the middle, right at one of the grooves.

Is there an issue here, or did I just buy an economy pin?

 

[GA_Boater]

That isn't a manual reverse locking pin for surge brakes, is it?

 

[JimS123]

That isn't a manual reverse locking pin for surge brakes, is it?

No, its the safety pin that holds the coupler together.

 

[Bt Doctur]

the safety pin locks the latch, the reversing pin allows you to back up
There is no pin that keeps the coupler together

 

[GA_Boater]

What brand?

 

[jimmbo]

Post a pic showing us the coupler and pin location

 

[JimS123]

OK, forgive my poor terminology - I never had brakes before.

It's a Dexter. The pin I'm talking about keeps the latch from retracting and thus keeps the coupler on the ball.

The oem pin is 5/16" OD. The locking pin is 9/32, so its thinner to begin with, plus its strength is compromised with all the grooves.

I put a ball in the hitch and there is a slight bit of vertical play. The ball is certainly not going to come out, but it's not as tight as my other Class 1 or 2 hitches. Looking at the parts, I don't see any way to adjust it, like you would on the lighter hitches.

The pic below shows the oem pin slightly retracted, with the manual revers lock key (or whatever its called) installed just for clarity of the system. The bent locking pin is on top of the tongue.

 

[MTboatguy]

The pin that bent started out in a disadvantaged position because of the weakness of the pin. When working with hitches, I never stray from what they were designed for and no where have I ever seen one that would do alright with a pin like that.

 

[oldjeep]

If you want to lock something just lock the safety cable to the truck with a padlock. I'm surprised that there is any load on that pin since it is the same setup I have and unless the top latch is not latched there shouldn't be pressure on the pin.

 

[GA_Boater]

If you want to lock something just lock the safety cable to the truck with a padlock. I'm surprised that there is any load on that pin since it is the same setup I have and unless the top latch is not latched there shouldn't be pressure on the pin.

Wondering the same thing. The latch locks when pushed down and clicks. The pin is belt and suspenders unless a padlock is used to lock the coupler to the ball.

It's possible the notched pin is not as strong as the original pin which may be hardened.

Why the switch to the new pin?

 

[dingbat]

I'm surprised that there is any load on that pin since it is the same setup I have and unless the top latch is not latched there shouldn't be pressure on the pin.

Agree.
I have the same pin setup on my rig. No load whatsoever on the pin. Used to keep "catch" from coming accidentally opening. I've forgotten to install a couple of times.

Reading through the manual, they give a procedure on how to attached the actuator on the ball. Seems pretty straight forward.

https://www.expediter.com/wp-content...e-Actuator.pdf

 

[H20Rat]

I think the length of the pin is your problem... I have the exact same coupler, and the OEM pin is short, mine is maybe 1.5 to 2 inches or so. I'm wondering if that long pin ends up getting smacked by something internally during braking. (the bend looks to be almost exactly at the length of the OEM pin.)

I won't be at my boat until Friday, but I bet if you lay down and look at it from the bottom, you probably can see what it ran into.

Also, looking at your aftermarket pin, it doesn't have the ball detent like the OEM one does. It isn't meant to stick through, the ball detent is what keeps it in place. I wouldn't trust a pin without that.

 

[JimS123]

I bought the pin to be able to lock the coupler to prevent theft. I always put a padlock on my trailers. The pin thru the receiver and drawbar are locked as well.

The manual above is clear about the installation, and it even said that a padlock pin as small as 1/4" is OK.

The length is not an issue. The portion within the coupler is the same. The excess on the outside is covered with the lock that slips on.

Sure, there shouldn't be any load on the pin. Looking from underneath, the bend is right at the edge of the latch. Trying to analyze the issue, it would appear that the only way it could have happened is if the ball went down and the trailer went up.

I do remember going over a deep RR track crossing which made the car and trailer both jump a bit. As I said, the ball fit is a bit loose, so I'm guessing that there was enough vertical movement to bend the pin.

Before anyone asks, the ball is the correct size and i have adequate tongue weight.

I guess i'll get a beefier single size padlock, and junk the one-size-fits-all with all the grooves.

Thanks for everyone's help...

 

[oldjeep]

I think the length of the pin is your problem... I have the exact same coupler, and the OEM pin is short, mine is maybe 1.5 to 2 inches or so. I'm wondering if that long pin ends up getting smacked by something internally during braking. (the bend looks to be almost exactly at the length of the OEM pin.)

I won't be at my boat until Friday, but I bet if you lay down and look at it from the bottom, you probably can see what it ran into.

Also, looking at your aftermarket pin, it doesn't have the ball detent like the OEM one does. It isn't meant to stick through, the ball detent is what keeps it in place. I wouldn't trust a pin without that.

That is a good point - my pin is quite short and definitely does not span the entire coupler

 

[Horigan]

My OEM pin goes all the way through and has the ball detent. If the coupler is latched, there shouldn't be any load on the pin, certainly not enough to bend the pin that much unless the coupler somehow came unlatched. I use a different lock (see link below) and only use it after I unhitch. I suggest only towing with the OEM pin installed and use the lock, unhitched or not, when you're not towing.

 

[JimS123]

My OEM pin goes all the way through and has the ball detent. If the coupler is latched, there shouldn't be any load on the pin, certainly not enough to bend the pin that much unless the coupler somehow came unlatched. I use a different lock (see link below) and only use it after I unhitch. I suggest only towing with the OEM pin installed and use the lock, unhitched or not, when you're not towing.

Good idea. That was my plan.