Crankshaft damper

TankerDan

Seaman
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Oct 22, 2020
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68
I'm trying to remove the damper from the crankshaft. The damper doesn't have a retaining bolt, is it just a press on part? There isn't a large threaded hole like in every other crankshaft I've seen. My manual doesn't say anything about it. Also can I use a regular remover? It's a'98 3.0 . Thanks for any knowledge you can give me as you can see I have a lot of clean up to do on it16296636586747022950599908918893.jpg
 

Sunburn71

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Jul 4, 2021
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31
I've never see one without a bolt in it. Without the bolt, you are relying on the keyway to take the load which could cause serious issues. A puller will get it off, but be sure to clean the threads in the crank and get a bolt in there. Just my 2 cents.
 

Sunburn71

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Jul 4, 2021
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I've never see one without a bolt in it. Without the bolt, you are relying on the keyway to take the load which could cause serious issues. A puller will get it off, but be sure to clean the threads in the crank and get a bolt in there. Just my 2 cents.
I just googled images of the motor. I don't see a bolt in any of the photos so don't take my word for gospel. It may just be pressed on but that's a new one to me!
 

TankerDan

Seaman
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Oct 22, 2020
Messages
68
Thanks guys, its the first I've seen without the center bolt. In fact now that I got it off I found the crank isn't even drilled for the center bolt. So I guess the marine crank is deffinatly manufactured different then the automotive crank
 

alldodge

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The 3.0 is an industrial motor, so not a regular GM block
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Use a puller to remove

To install, put damper in oven at 220 degrees, place block on ground with crank flange supported on a block of wood with snout pointing up.

Drive damper on with deadblow hammer
 

76SeaRay

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Aug 24, 2017
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Make sure you use a three legged puller attached to those 3 bolt holes otherwise you will damage the damper. Oops, I guess you said you already got it pulled.
 

alldodge

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Don't get it much hotter then 220, so seal won't be damaged
 

TankerDan

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Oct 22, 2020
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The 3 jaw puller was easy, I have a bunch of pullers I need for work. Heating the damper before installation is a great idea, I don't think the manual mentioned it and I wouldn't have thought of it, thanks
 

tank1949

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Apr 4, 2013
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1,911
I've never see one without a bolt in it. Without the bolt, you are relying on the keyway to take the load which could cause serious issues. A puller will get it off, but be sure to clean the threads in the crank and get a bolt in there. Just my 2 cents.
Me too!
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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GM inline engines for decades never had a crank bolt going back to the 20's thru the 70's
 

TankerDan

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Oct 22, 2020
Messages
68
Hi guys, long time no post. So before I put the engine back in I wanted to make sure the transom is sealed and not leaking. I mounted the outdrive, took a hose, put the handle on jet and hosed it down around gimble housing. No leaks but I wondered if it was a good enough test. So I then thought I'd take it to a local lake, leave the transom straps on and back it into the water until the outdrive was under water. I backed it in until the water was up to the middle of the housing, checked and no leaks so far, wahoo. I backed it in further, climbed in to look and noticed the boat moved a little, so I ignored it, but still no leaks. So I looked over the stern to see how far I had to go. Strange the water was still at the same level. I then noticed the ramp was moving to the side. I looked up and found the trees were moving. It seems the trailer isn't heavy enough to get the whole housing under water. I had a good laugh about it, so now I guess I'll set the engine in and retest it. Fortunantly I have plenty of time on my hands
 

nola mike

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Joined
Apr 22, 2009
Messages
5,429
Hi guys, long time no post. So before I put the engine back in I wanted to make sure the transom is sealed and not leaking. I mounted the outdrive, took a hose, put the handle on jet and hosed it down around gimble housing. No leaks but I wondered if it was a good enough test. So I then thought I'd take it to a local lake, leave the transom straps on and back it into the water until the outdrive was under water. I backed it in until the water was up to the middle of the housing, checked and no leaks so far, wahoo. I backed it in further, climbed in to look and noticed the boat moved a little, so I ignored it, but still no leaks. So I looked over the stern to see how far I had to go. Strange the water was still at the same level. I then noticed the ramp was moving to the side. I looked up and found the trees were moving. It seems the trailer isn't heavy enough to get the whole housing under water. I had a good laugh about it, so now I guess I'll set the engine in and retest it. Fortunantly I have plenty of time on my hands
I did the same thing, with the same results, during my engine install šŸ˜„
 
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