Re: Dead Short
TexomaAv8r,<br />The reason the wire "smoked" was because of heat generated by the short. The direct short resulted in a high amperage draw on the wire. High Amps = High Heat. This is the reason for larger wires for high amp circuits.<br /><br />I would start by looking in the general area of the "burnt wire" though. Look for places that move, i.e. the steering column or brake pedals. If the wire bundle shifted and is rubbing, this will chafe the wire and rub off the insulation. If all of that is good, you need to inspect where the wire bundles go through the "bulkhead" (that's what we call it in airplanes) again looking for chafing. Next, I would inspect the wire bundles going back to the taillights. <br /><br />One more thing to consider. Did the fuse blow before you turned on the light switch or after? If it was before, that means your short is between the fuse and the switch. If it was after, it is between the switch and the lights. <br />It is easier to try and break up the wiring to sections when troubleshooting. In other words, if you can break the circuit in half by disconnecting a plug, test for shorts in one half. If not there, the short must be in the other half. You have now eliminated half of the wiring. I personally would suspect the switch or around the steering column.<br /><br />The replacement of a light for the switch is a brilliant idea, if the short is happening when the switch is off. If it is happening when the switch is on, that is a different story. <br />The reason being, if the switch is on, there is supposed to be a ground on the other side. The light could possibly dim, due to other bulbs using up some voltage, but should stay on.<br /><br />AK Chappy