Deadrise Question

Chris-R

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 31, 2010
Messages
183
I thought we finally found our new boat, namely a 2011 Stingray 215LR. Last night, my wife spotted a 2007 Stingray 220DR for a great price. Either boat will do what we want but I have a concern. The published deadrise on the 220DR is 16 degrees and on the 215LR it is 19 degrees. Whichever boat we buy will find its way into Narragansett Bay on a regular basis. Summer afternoons typically bring a southerly breeze causing 2-3 foot chop in many areas of the Bay. I'm wondering how much smoother of a ride I'll get in chop from the 215LR with its 3 degree difference in deadrise as compared to the 220DR. Can anyone help me out with thoughts? Thank you.
 

5150abf

Vice Admiral
Joined
Aug 12, 2007
Messages
5,808
Re: Deadrise Question

As I understand dead rise, more is better, it is essentially a sharper hull so it will cut the water better and should have a smoother ride.

Now how much difference 3 degrees will make I don't know but the 215 should ride a bit smoother, weight also figures in, a really light boat with alot of dead rise would ride rougher than a heavy boat with less.
 

Old Fish

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Dec 19, 2010
Messages
38
Re: Deadrise Question

Take it from me I have a 17' boat with a 16 dead rise and even in or lake here any wake and it will beat you to death. The higher degree of dead rise the greater the angle of the V the better to cut through. But the more it will rock anchored.
 

1fishbone

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Nov 9, 2010
Messages
476
Re: Deadrise Question

Here's a good example of dead rise:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Deadrise_definition.svg

I doubt you'll notice the 3? difference even if you tried each boat for a month.

But the BIG picture, I looked on the web, both these hulls are described as mono hulls, 220DR 'Z plane', 215LR mono hull, (one link called it a V hull)...a mono hull is not the IDEAL hull for over 3' chop, nor is it considered a 'bay' boat.

If you need to get from Jamestown to Potter's Cove in a hurry...it's not going to give the same ride comfort and performance as a Deep V bay boat!

I lived in RI for over 10 years and boated the Ma/RI water for over 35 years.
It wouldn't be my first choice.
But it's your decision.
 

shrew

Lieutenant
Joined
Dec 29, 2006
Messages
1,309
Re: Deadrise Question

http://www.answers.com/topic/deadrise

The higher the number the deeper the V. The higher the deadrise the smoother the ride because the hull cuts through the waves better. However there is a law of dimishing returns here where the higher the deadrise, the more power is required to get the hull to plane. The lower the deadrise the easier the boat is to get on plane, but will pound more in chop. Think of it this way.


(Edited for correction. In a previous example I interchanged the concepts)
 

QC

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 22, 2005
Messages
22,783
Re: Deadrise Question

I doubt you'll notice the 3? difference even if you tried each boat for a month.
16 to 19 degrees is HUGE in ride comfort. Personally I won't own less than 20 for the family boat.

Edit: Oh, oh . . . less is faster and more stable at rest. So if all else is equal (never is) a 16 degree boat will be faster than her 19 degree sister.
 

JoLin

Vice Admiral
Joined
Aug 18, 2007
Messages
5,146
Re: Deadrise Question

16 to 19 degrees is HUGE in ride comfort.

+1... BIG difference...

+2

My 21' Pro-Line W/A had 21 deg. deadrise, my 24' Chris Craft had either 20 or 22 (depending on whose specs you followed). The Pro-Line was pretty good in chop in the Great South Bay, the C*C is spectacular in the same conditions, but also has another 3' in length and a dry weight of a couple thousand pounds more than the P-L, both of which make a big difference.

My 'new' boat, the Four Winns, is in some respects a step down at 17 deg. I thought hard about that before buying, and decided that the additional 3' in length, and 7400 lbs dry weight (as opposed the 5200 for the C*C) will prove perfectly adequate for our bay use.

To bottom line it, there are several factors to take into consideration- length, weight and deadrise. In a short, light boat like yours, deadrise is your friend. Get as much as you can. IMO, 16 deg isn't enough for your intended use.

If the boats you're looking at are bowriders, consider a dual-console boat instead. If they're cuddies, consider a walk-around cuddy. Those styles of boat tend to be built on more seaworthy hulls than BR's and 'regular' cuddies.

My .02
 
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dingbat

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 20, 2001
Messages
16,313
Re: Deadrise Question

Too much emphasis is being put on the dead rise while totally ignoring the rest of the hull design. A well designed 18 degree hull is going to outperform a poorly designed 20 degree hull in every way.

Case in point, I had an older Grady with the original, Ray Hunt (http://www.huntdesigns.com/deepv.htm) mod-V hull with a 20 degree deadrise. The boat rode very well and was stable at rest, but it would beat you in the slop.

I sold that boat and bought the same boat with Grady?s "new" SeaV2 hull which is Raymond Hunt design as well. The SeaV2 hull is a continuously variable deadrise design. It sports a 20 degree deadrise at transom, 30 degrees midship and over 60 degrees at the bow.

While both models have a 20 degree deadrise, the difference in ride quality is like day and night. Not to mention I have a better top end and better stability at drift. This completely against conventional thinking that increased deadrise requires more HP and decreased stability.
 

JimS123

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Jul 27, 2007
Messages
8,234
Re: Deadrise Question

But the BIG picture, I looked on the web, both these hulls are described as mono hulls, 220DR 'Z plane', 215LR mono hull, (one link called it a V hull)...a mono hull is not the IDEAL hull for over 3' chop, nor is it considered a 'bay' boat.

I don't know where you read the info. Maybe it was the Stingray website, or maybe an ad by a Stingray dealer who made up their own comments. I also don't know what your definition of a "mono" hull is. The problem with advertising people or boat company marketing departments is that they throw around a lot of terms when they don't really know what they are talking about.

Stingray boats exhibit a hull design that they have patented and refer to as "ZP" or z plane. Its basically a deep V boat that has a specific chine and strake design. Both of the boats in question here have the same hull, though the deadrise is different. Why someone referred to one as a mono and not the other is probably just 2 people talking at different times. Or could it be that the person was trying to tell the audience that the boat is a "deckboat", but its not a trihull?

My understanding of a mono hull is a boat that has one hull....LOL...as opposed to a trihull or a catamaran. Any deep V boat is a mono hull. If you are going to tackle 3' seas, you darn well better have a monohull!

In 2007 all of the Stingrays below 22' had a 19 degree deadrise. The 23 footers and up were 21 or 22. The 220DR deckboat was the only one in the line that was 16 degrees, which is kind of surprising since 30 years ago even the Stingray 16' outboard had a 19 degree deadrise.

Maybe the 2011 was "upgraded" to make it ride better. Sounds like that is the better deal!
 

Chris-R

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 31, 2010
Messages
183
Re: Deadrise Question

Thanks for all the replies. I got out my protractor and a few long pieces of wood and compared 16 degrees to 19 degrees and it is quite the difference on a boat that is 8 1/2 feet wide. I think I'll stick to the 19 degree deadrise. Again, thanks for the help.
 

Varago

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Mar 15, 2008
Messages
88
Re: Deadrise Question

To the OP reread dingbats post.

The published DR is at the transom but you also have to look at the DR all the way along the boat. My Bluewater has a 15 DR at the back but is about 30 at the control station and it rides much better then my old boat that was 15 at both points.

Dave
 

Chris-R

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 31, 2010
Messages
183
Re: Deadrise Question

To the OP reread dingbats post.

The published DR is at the transom but you also have to look at the DR all the way along the boat. My Bluewater has a 15 DR at the back but is about 30 at the control station and it rides much better then my old boat that was 15 at both points.

Dave

I agree. Thanks for the help.
 
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