Decarb and WOT questions...

Dennisanoka

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 10, 2007
Messages
252
Re: Decarb and WOT questions...

If you have a nice c clamp one may do it two may be easier. I'd just put them in the middle of the highest point. I don't think you can do it too fast. Just make sure you have something between the c clamps and the paint.
 

iwombat

Captain
Joined
Jul 12, 2006
Messages
3,767
Re: Decarb and WOT questions...

I'm thinking you'll want a straight edge on either side, a small shim (1/16") right over the high point of the bend, and one c-clamp on either side. A popsicle stick might be just right for a shim.


Tighten slowly until the skeg bends back over the shim and walk away for 20 minutes or so.
 

ineedacottage

Seaman
Joined
Jul 12, 2006
Messages
69
Re: Decarb and WOT questions...

ineedacottage,

My engine did not have a hook on it for hoisting. I asked my two sons 18 & 20yrs. old to lift it but they said "ya right dad". So as usual dad was on his own. I'm not saying this was perfect and you may have trouble following what I did but it worked and I avoided any calamity.

I happen to have a floor jack and was able to do this myself. I put the floor jack on a sturdy platform(I had some 6"x6"x3'beams) so it could go high enough. I then nailed blocks into the platform so the floor jack could not move when I jacked it up.(doing that is important) I put a block between the floor jack and the very bottom of the transom. I raised the engine so that the center of gravity was forward to keep it from falling backwards when it was loose.(that part is also important) I only loosened the bolts that are in the slots, removed the ones in the holes and raised the engine. When the next holes lined up I put the bolts back in.

It only took about 15 minutes

Ha - kids, eh? Mine are a tooouch younger than that - they'd be more than willing to give me a hand - unfortunately a 1 year old and a 3 year old will make things a tad *more* difficult for me! :D

Thanks for the idea - sounds good to me! I think my dad has a floor jack that I can use...unfortunately he is away touring on his Goldwing for another couple weeks...it will have to wait until he gets back unless I can find another, similar method.

If you have a nice c clamp one may do it two may be easier. I'd just put them in the middle of the highest point. I don't think you can do it too fast. Just make sure you have something between the c clamps and the paint.

I'm thinking you'll want a straight edge on either side, a small shim (1/16") right over the high point of the bend, and one c-clamp on either side. A popsicle stick might be just right for a shim.


Tighten slowly until the skeg bends back over the shim and walk away for 20 minutes or so.

Thanks a lot for the advice guys! I am a bit of a perfectionist at times and that bend has bothered me and if I can straighten it out, it would make me a happy man! :D

Should I be targeting 5600 or 5800 rpm? And that is trimmed up to achieve that, correct?

Thanks again for your help!
 

OhWellcraft

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 22, 2007
Messages
277
Re: Decarb and WOT questions...

One way you could try to lift is with the trailer jack. with the trailer jack all the way down and the motor trimmed all the way down place wood blocks under the skeg right up tight. Remove upper transom bolts and slightly loosen lower transom bolts( might want to attach ratchet strap across transom hooks to keep motor from wanting to tip back). Have a helper jack up trailer jack to where your next set of holes lines up re install upper bolts through transom and re tighten lowers. Do all of this slowly and keep an eye on everything and you should be fine. Don'y forget to re-seal all bolts back up with 4200 or something similar to prevent water intrusion into your transom. Then fix the bend in your skeg when you are done.
 

ineedacottage

Seaman
Joined
Jul 12, 2006
Messages
69
Re: Decarb and WOT questions...

One way you could try to lift is with the trailer jack. with the trailer jack all the way down and the motor trimmed all the way down place wood blocks under the skeg right up tight. Remove upper transom bolts and slightly loosen lower transom bolts( might want to attach ratchet strap across transom hooks to keep motor from wanting to tip back). Have a helper jack up trailer jack to where your next set of holes lines up re install upper bolts through transom and re tighten lowers. Do all of this slowly and keep an eye on everything and you should be fine. Don'y forget to re-seal all bolts back up with 4200 or something similar to prevent water intrusion into your transom. Then fix the bend in your skeg when you are done.

Thanks for the idea!

What is 4200? Some type of sealer I assume...where would I find it - is this something any marine shop would carry?

Thanks for your help!
 

OhWellcraft

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 22, 2007
Messages
277
Re: Decarb and WOT questions...

Yes the 4200 is a 3M product that is a very good marine sealant it comes in a fast cure(24hr.) and a slower cure(3-4 days I think). I have always used the quick cure and had great results with it. I will warn however don't use the 5200 as it is VERY permanent and can be difficult to deal with if removal is needed. Almost every boating store/marina carries it. It is not cheap but is a superior product, I would reccomend the smaller squeeze tube (7 oz.) rather than the cartridge that goes in a caulk gun as you won't need all that much and it keeps much better in the tube. I recently finished a complete transom rebuild all due to water intrusion through the motor mount bolts through the transom. It is a very important step in keeping your boat healthy. Make sure the holes are good and dry and the bolts are clean squeeze some into the hole and slather the bolts with the sealant the tighten to reccomended torque. Don't over tighten and squeeze all of the sealant out, it's okay if some is on the threads as it will help to seal and maintain tightness. When finished take your finger and smooth over washers,nuts,bolt heads etc. Get the stuff off of your hands promptly because once it starts to set it is tough to remove and it collects dirt turning your hands black for a few days.(don't ask me how I found that out). Remember that you are dealing with over 350# so be sure of what your doing and don't get in too big of a hurry. I removed a 200hp evinrude this way with the help of a few friends an it worked great. Also your trailer jack probably has enough range to lift it off the hooks so if you can enlist a helper to slowly do the cranking it would be wise. It will want to tip back a little once the upper bolts are removed so try the ratchet strap across the transom hooks it works well and the motor will still move up and down easily. Lastly while your working back there might want to check your splashwell drain(s) and seal them up real good with the 4200 while you are at it.(another cause of water intrusion into transom wood) Hope some of this helps and good luck...
 
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