Decipher this Welch plug number

[MarkV_Deep6]

Re: Decipher this Welch plug number

Sunday <br /><br /> Started going over all the connections and cleaning everything to eliminate the causes of the Stator melt down.<br /> I started lookin at the flywheel. There are only two magnets that are still in thier orriginal position. all the others have slid aroung the flywheel and are not affixed. one of them has been glued together as it was broken almost in half at some point.<br /> Gonna do some searching here on the post to find out more about the flywheel and magnets

 

[Dhadley]

Re: Decipher this Welch plug number

Thats a stator for a 1988 & newer. Forget trying to match what's there. If you're going to keep the twin packs (no reason not to) just consider the system an 87 and buy from CDI accordingly. <br /><br />If you decide to go to the newer single "butterfly" pack just consider the system a 88 & newer (93 is as good a year as any) and call it that. <br /><br />You're going to drive yourself crazy otherwise.

 

[Dhadley]

Re: Decipher this Welch plug number

Oh, if you keep the twin packs, remember that they are not wired side to side (1 pack for port, 1 for starboard) like a V4 or V6. V8 twin packs are wired one pack for the top 4 and one pack for the bottom 4.

 

[MarkV_Deep6]

Re: Decipher this Welch plug number

Ordered replacment magnets. I went ahead and ordered the Stator for the one that was on the V8...#173-4287, wanted to be sure the connectors worked with what I have.It seems they are all similar except for the connections and wires. If I replace the Power packs later I will go with the single power pack as it seems to cost less and would make things a little easier.<br />Thanks for the advice on the connections of the power packs. I left as many wires connected as possible to make reconnection easier.<br /><br /> I took a picture of the wires before removing the Stator but some of them did not show the stripes as they do now that they are off. When I go to put it back together I will ask for a little hand holding to be certain of the connections at the bar. My manual schematic is not very helpful.<br /><br />You probably see engines this pieced together often... to me its a little troublesome. At liest I will know it when I finish. It ran really well before this... a little hard to start but other than that it flew on that heavy 25 Hydra Sport.<br /><br />There was a number etched into the lower side of the flywheel. Looks like a model number for the engine J275JXC0 but since it had V8 etched on the top it is probably from a salvage engine. I would guess this engine had major breakdown of the stator previously.

 

[Dhadley]

Re: Decipher this Welch plug number

Just remember that the stator you have doesn't match the packs. The flywheel seems to have come from a 1985 275. I'd bet that's where the timer base and packs came from. <br /><br />Once you start mixing & matching you're kinda treading into unknown territory. The stator you have is for the Quick Start models. But the flywheel, packs and timer base aren't. Be careful.

 

[MarkV_Deep6]

Re: Decipher this Welch plug number

Thanks... The only reason I am putting that Stator back is that, is what working on it for quite a few years. I could call Seiler marine and have the Stator changed to be the older model Stator Monday. I sure nothing was processed or shipped over the weekend.<br /><br />He operates strictly on email and answers very quickly. I sent an email and requestd he change the order. I did not change the rectifier model number, it appeard the CDI rectifier number I ordered crosses over for that.

 

[MarkV_Deep6]

Re: Decipher this Welch plug number

Ok the order was corrected. Mike at Sieler Marine was very helpful with getting the correct part. He went so far as checking all the info to ensure I got the parts that will work and how the wires on the bar should connect.<br /> He's probably correct about the wires causing some of this issue. the orange wires on the Stator were connecting to the yellow wires from the rectifier.<br /> The new Stator will not have the orange wires and the yellow wires from the stator will connect to the yellow wire from the rectifier on the bar.<br />Good people to deal with... Kinda like this forum. <br /><br />www.seilermarine.com

 

[Dhadley]

Re: Decipher this Welch plug number

The orange and orange / black wires have to do with Quick Start. SLOW and the rev limiter in the 1988 & up system.

 

[MarkV_Deep6]

Re: Decipher this Welch plug number

Now I know, but I did not before speaking with Seiler. The wires we connected this way for who knows how long.<br /> If not for you and Sieler I would probably reattach stuff as found and it would have cost me.<br /><br />This is the reason I was going to get you to hold my hand when reattaching the wires on the bar... it did not make sense the way they were attached.

 

[kitebuz]

Re: Decipher this Welch plug number

You should be able to call brp w/ the serial # off the welch plug, and (if you get a helpful tech) they should be able to give you the corresponding model # & yr. I was able to do this w/ my '89 120's (although they were sold to me as '91's...).

 

[Dhadley]

Re: Decipher this Welch plug number

True, but someone has mixed and matched ignition components. The model and serial number will tell us what it was when it was produced but it won't tell us what happened to it in the field in the last 20 years.

 

[MarkV_Deep6]

Re: Decipher this Welch plug number

Thought I would give a synopsys of the results of this repair so far. Got the parts this week and installed them without issue. I had to make a flywheel holder described on one of the entries here to the 145lb torque of the flywheel nut.(I didn't trust the nuematic wrench.)<br /> I had major timing problems caused the previous set up of the engine with the quick start wires from the old stator being attached to the yellow wires. It was way to far advanced. I used Joe Reeves method of setting the timeing.<br /> I got side tracked today. I read about a problem caused by the anti syphon valve so I decided to remove the one from my tank and allow free flow. <br /> Not a smart idea on my setup. I have two supply lines one comeing from the tank to the filter and another from the tank to the pump (Primer) and them to the filter. When I removed the antisiphon I was allowing the primer to pump back into the tank instead of being blocked by the antisiphon and allowing fuel to go to the engine. This took me quite some time to realize what I had done. I even replaced the pump to try to get fuel back to the engine. <br /> During all this I managed to miss adjust the slow speed timeing, and the whole thing was a lot of fun trying to get it all to work the way it was designed.<br /><br /> Its running well now after working all weekend. I just want to go fishing!!! Now I gotta go back to work and slave away until next weekend to get in the water. AAAAAARRRRRGGGGG

 

[Dhadley]

Re: Decipher this Welch plug number

Are you using the tubing on the pump that allows it to free flow or running the gas thru the pump all the time?

 

[MarkV_Deep6]

Re: Decipher this Welch plug number

The way it's set up, one hose runs through the pump into the fuel filter. The second supply hose goes from the tank directly to the filter and would seem to supply fuel after the engine starts up. (All in a tight bilge area of course) There is only one hose from the filter up to the engine.<br /> In my haste to repair the fuel supply issue I replaced the old pump with the tubing design you are talking about. In retrospect, I believe I will put it back. I'm thinking the same thing you are.

 

[Dhadley]

Re: Decipher this Welch plug number

I've always used the pump that came with the motor (Stuart Warner or Waldeboro) and the tubing for the by-pass on recreational stuff. The by-pass has one way valves so we always did what you did, take out the anti-siphon valve.

 

[MarkV_Deep6]

Re: Decipher this Welch plug number

I dont think the orriginal pump I replaced had a one way valve in there I will check it out when I get home. Do you think the setup would be better with only one supply line to the filter?

 

[Dhadley]

Re: Decipher this Welch plug number

Two lines to the filter is OK as long as there is some sort of a check valve so it can't pump back to the tank like it did.

 

[MarkV_Deep6]

Re: Decipher this Welch plug number

Well I checked the old pump I pulled out, and it does have a one way fitting on it. I removed the new pump and reinstalled the old one. NADA Nothing zip. Make a good noise but will not pump gas.<br />I'm buying a few fittings to be able to make a pump bypass with a check valve that will work similar to the orriginal pump configuration. This might hold me up a bit. The fittings being all 3/8 are not readily available at the local boat stores. I'll get it all straight one day.