Deep cycle battery boils dry

Wolf56

Recruit
Joined
Mar 3, 2005
Messages
5
I've been told to keep my battery on the charger at all times when not in use. I have a Minn Kota "Smart Charger" I keep the caps off for ventilation but my water continously boils out! What am I doing wrong?
 

TwoBallScrewBall

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Sep 14, 2003
Messages
1,695
Re: Deep cycle battery boils dry

whoever told you that is wrong. The battery is overcharging which is the direct cause of the fluid boiling out.
 

JRJ

Commander
Joined
Sep 11, 2001
Messages
2,992
Re: Deep cycle battery boils dry

Your "smart charger" may be dumber than it looks :D However, I've never seen it suggested to leave the caps off a charging battery. The off gas can explode. Good luck and welcome to iboats where there are some experts (not me).
 

JB

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Mar 25, 2001
Messages
45,907
Re: Deep cycle battery boils dry

Electric Topic
 

walleyehed

Admiral
Joined
Jun 29, 2003
Messages
6,767
Re: Deep cycle battery boils dry

It takes 14.7 volts to properly charge a Deep cycle battery. 13.3 volts to maintain. Any battery of this type that boils at or above 14-14.2 volts is no good. They will "boil" (Gas) above 14.2 during the charge cycle only. With batt. charger connected, batt full of liquid, check voltage with charger on and see what it's putting out.
 

Richard Petersen

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Dec 17, 2004
Messages
778
Re: Deep cycle battery boils dry

Forget the battery It has lost most of it's capacty because when the lead plates are exposed to air they start forming a coating that prevents charging to full charge. It is a hopeless downward cycle of death. Do not leave a battery on charge without checking it every 3 to 4 hours with a cheap auto store HYGROMETER. They have 5 balls that rise as the battery charges up. 4 balls = 100% STOP------ 5 balls, you are overcharging, STOP sooner next time. When you charge your new battery to 100% check each cell. Suck up enough fluid to get the balls FREE floating. Suck up fluid from the 1st cell, get a reading, SQUEEZ all the water back into that same cell. DO NOT carry fluid from one cell to the other. When you get 4 balls up-- charger current should look like it is not plugged into the wall outlet. If it is still at a 1 to 5 amperes rate replace your battery charger before it kills this new battery. Print this out for reference.
 

walleyehed

Admiral
Joined
Jun 29, 2003
Messages
6,767
Re: Deep cycle battery boils dry

100% charge is great, but that doesn't mean unplug the charger. As I said above, it takes 13.3-13.4 volts to "Maintain" a battery for the most life possible, and the memory becomes close to 100%, not 85 or 90%. 1-5 amps means nothing if you don't have the correct voltage for maintenance. If you're using an automotive-type battery charger, count on replacing batteries often.
 

Boatist

Rear Admiral
Joined
Apr 22, 2002
Messages
4,552
Re: Deep cycle battery boils dry

Your smart charger is either set to a manual setting or it is not too smart. Truely smart charger can be left connected. However in winter unless you have some load on the battery there is no need to charge more than one time a month.
 

18rabbit

Captain
Joined
Nov 14, 2003
Messages
3,202
Re: Deep cycle battery boils dry

Lots of good info has been posted here. First, you do not remove the caps except to maintain the battery, i.e. add water or check the electrolyte. Do not remove them when changing or discharging. As JRJ mentioned, there is off-gassing during charging/discharging. The battery is basically using energy (electricity) to separate the water (H2O) molecules. Oxygen comes off, and hydrogen comes off. Neither gas is harmful to breath in limited amounts but the hydrogen is extremely unstable and can explode.<br /><br />Another component of the off-gassing is the battery’s soup itself. It is basically sulfuric acid (H2SO4). Some of those molecules are carried out intact, alive and well. H2SO4 is very corrosive and not something you should be breathing. The caps on a flooded battery are designed to allow the battery guts to ‘breath’ as needed during normal use so you don’t need to remove them.<br /><br />A 12v battery is really six 2v batteries in series, housed in a plastic box. Since you can’t check the voltage of each 2v cell individually with a voltmeter, a hydrometer is needed to very the status of individual 2v cells. A voltmeter can be used (and is easier) to check the whole, 12v package. See the values Walleyehed posted above. It is a lot easier to start with a fresh battery and a voltmeter. Hydrometers are something you definitely needed for the feeding and care of high-end batteries. You will know when you get your hands on one of those critters because each 2v cell is removable (replaceable)...and one 12v battery can cost about as much as a brand new 15hp outboard motor.<br /><br />I am a fan of hydrometers but I discourage the use of the cheap units with floating balls inside. Of all the hydrometers on the planet those are the least accurate. For about $20-$25 you can get a calibrated hydrometer on-line from a winemaking supplier. Winemakers use them to gauge the volume of alcohol in the wine as it ferments. The specific gravity of wine is similar to battery acid. Note: you do not have wine in your battery…do not drink the battery’s acid! A hydrometer will tell you if there is a bad 2v cell but there is nothing you can do about...you will need to replace all six of the 2v cells, i.e. get a new battery, so you might as well just use a voltmeter.<br /><br /><br /> Quality hydrometer here. <br /><br />Overcharging a battery does not necessarily need to be detrimental to the battery. It depends on how much soup evaporated, how long the lead plates were exposed, and how much of the lead plates were lost to the overcharge. Fwiw, controlled overcharging is the method used to resurrect dead batteries. The overcharging current reverses the effects of sulfur crystals that normally/naturally develop on the lead plates. Desirable overcharging is called ‘equalizing’. Undesirable overcharging is called ‘yucky-bad’. And just to let you know, having removed those caps could have prevented the battery from exploding during the yucky-bad overcharging. Left uncontrolled, the battery’s soup could have dropped to a level that permitted arcing to occur inside the battery and that arcing could have detonated the hydrogen gas in the battery, had the caps still been on it. Having only one electron, hydrogen is the lightest atom. It wants to float away similar to helium.<br /><br />What to do? Regardless of any battery you have or get, as everyone above has pointed out, you have charger problems that need to be addressed. I would add distilled water to the cells of that battery, charge it, then load test it. If it passes, it works so use it. If it doesn’t pass the load test you can try replacing the electrolyte, charging, load test again. Otherwise, toss the battery and start anew with a battery, a voltmeter, and a decent, “smart” charger.<br /><br />Good luck…and welcome to the board! :)
 

Wolf56

Recruit
Joined
Mar 3, 2005
Messages
5
Re: Deep cycle battery boils dry

Thanks to everyone for all of the information. My "smart" charger is supposed to deliver charging voltage when needed and then drop down to maintenance voltage automatically. I was unaware about leaving the caps on, thinking that the internal pressure created during charging would blow them off or worse. I'm taking a week long trip the third week of this month and don't want battery problems so I'll start by buying a new battery. To check my charger should I use a voltage meter to look for voltage drop after a few hours of charging?
 

walleyehed

Admiral
Joined
Jun 29, 2003
Messages
6,767
Re: Deep cycle battery boils dry

Yes....see what initial charge voltage is, and it may start at 13 and go slowly to 14.7 over a period of 5-10 minutes. check the voltage at start and again at 10 minutes. Give it 4-5 hrs. then check again. Please post the results you come up with when you get to it.
 

Wolf56

Recruit
Joined
Mar 3, 2005
Messages
5
Re: Deep cycle battery boils dry

Hi guys. I bought a new deep cycle battery. It tested fully charged at the store. I brought it home, let it sit (on insulated surface) for a couple of days, and then hooked up the charger. Initial voltage reading was 12 volts. After 30 minutes it's up to 13.5 volts. The "charging complete light has not yet come on, but it never did with the old battery. I'll let it sit another hour and see what happens. I'll let you know. Thanks for all the advice.
 

Richard Petersen

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Dec 17, 2004
Messages
778
Re: Deep cycle battery boils dry

If that battery charger is less than 5 years old it is a reject. Call the company for a replacement. Check the new charger just as carefully. Same indications, buy a different brand. Tell us what you are using now so we don't have the same grief. Good luck on the next one.
 

Wolf56

Recruit
Joined
Mar 3, 2005
Messages
5
Re: Deep cycle battery boils dry

Actually, after about two hours the "charging complete" light came on and the voltage from the charger dropped out altogether. It's a Minn Kota charger but I think the fault was mine and not the chargers. Now that I stopped taking the caps off the battery everything seems to be working well. I'll be taking the boat out next week for a full shake down, including hours on the trolling motor. I'll let y'all know how it works out. Thanks again!
 

Richard Petersen

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Dec 17, 2004
Messages
778
Re: Deep cycle battery boils dry

Just remember 3 things about the end of charging a battery. It can feel a LITTLE warm. 10 to 15 degrees warmer than your hand. Really good batteries do not heat up. #2 NO smell of acid in the air above the battery. #3 NO tiny drops of liquid around the cell caps. ONLY GAS is given off in a good charge. VERY GOOD batteries do not use a lot of water. #4 get a charge HYGROMETER and use it. Glad your a full fleged battery man. :)
 
Top