DHADLEY

[Don CHICHO]

Re: DHADLEY

DHADLEY. WHERE CAN GET A FACTORY WATER FLOW CHART ???. I'M USING A "CLYMER" MANUAL.<br /><br />IT'S SO EASY TO REMOVE THE POWERHEAD!. I FOUND THAT, WHEN I INSTALLED THE UPPER SOLID MOUNTS.<br />THAT'S WHY, I'M READY AT THE MOMENT THAT YOU TEACH ME HOW TO " DRY STACK" .<br /><br />THANKS A LOT!<br /><br />DON

 

[Dhadley]

Re: DHADLEY

The flow chart is in the factory manual. While youre waiting for that to come in, drop the gearcase and we'll do the bottom.

 

[Don CHICHO]

Re: DHADLEY

HELLO, DHADLEY!!. ......GOT THE WATER FLOW CHART,<br />I'M READY TO "DRY STACK" THE LOOPER .<br /><br />I'LL APPRECIATED IF YOU CAN TEACH ME,HOW TO " DRY<br />STACK" MY OMC.<br /><br />THANKS A LOT,<br />DON

 

[Dhadley]

Re: DHADLEY

OK. Pull the powerhead and find the passages in the adaptor plate where the water goes when it exits the block. There will be one on each side towards the rear and be an inch or so deep. The exit hole will be oblong and kind of an irregular shape. We need to block this passage to prevent water from going into the midsection.<br /><br />I cut a piece of aluminum to fit in the floor of each cavity and push it down to block the hole. It doesnt have to be real thick. Thinner is easier to work with. Then fill the cavity with something. Bondo or silicone -- whatever. This will seal the passage around the aluminum. I usually fill the cavity so water doesnt stand in there although it probably wouldnt hurt anything.<br /><br />Then look up the corresponding passage on the block. On the side of the block, drill a hole into that passage. Install a 90 degree pipe fitting so we can put a hose on it for the water to exit. A 1/2" ID hose is plenty. You will have to line up the hose and cut a small hole in each lower pan so the hose is pointing straight down. The hose doesnt hahe to come very far out of the pan. Maybe an inch or so. Whatever looks good.<br /><br />Then look at the lower unit. Put it in a stand so you can look down the exhaust. You will see that as the exhaust enters the lower unit the passage narrows. We want to widen that envelope. Using a cutter, go into the envelope and cut the "walls" verticaly away from each side. Do not cut away the rib that meets the mid section. Now the exhaust can come down from the mid section and hits no walls. Some will go out your opening right above the cav plate and some will continue out thru the prop area. <br /><br />The most popular method is to simply drill horizontal holes in the side of the exhaust area from the outside. This lets noise out but the exhaust still hits the walls inside. <br /><br />Thats it. When you run the motor you will probably notice a drop in water pressure because the water can exit faster than its coming in. Restrict the two exit hoses with something like pipe nipples screwed inside the hose right at the end. We must retain enough water to fill the block and keep it full or were going to have reg/rec problems.

 

[Don CHICHO]

Re: DHADLEY

DHADLEY. THANKS A LOT FOR THE INFO.<br />BUT, CAN YOU SEND ME A PIC OF ANY ADAPTOR PLATE WITH THE MOD ?!<br />IT'S A CRITICAL MOD.,IF I FILL A WRONG PASSAGE, I'LL DIE !!!!<br /><br />I ALREADY MOD MY LOWER UNIT, WITH THE EXHAUST RELEIVING.<br />CAN I BE ABLE TO USE "MARINE TEC" TO FILL THAT CAVITY AT THE ADAPTOR PLATE ??<br /><br />REGARDS,<br />DON<br /><br />DonChicho71@hotmail.com<br /><br />P.S.: I'M READY FOR THE " DRY STACKING" MOD !!!

 

[Dhadley]

Re: DHADLEY

Unfortunately I dont have any pictures of a V4 adaptor. If you look at the water flow chart carefully you will see where the water exits the powerhead. Just plug the corresponding passage in the adaptor. I thought of something else-- its easier to install your 90 degree fittings in the adaptor plate than the block. <br /><br />Yes, Marine Tex will work to seal the passage. I used a Coke can to cut the small piece to sit in the floor and the used silicone to seal around it. Install the fitting before you seal the opening.<br /><br />If your holes in the lower unit are cut verticaly, youre all set. If the holes were just drilled in the side then you still need to remove the hump that the exhaust will hit as it comes out of the mid section.

 

[Don CHICHO]

Re: DHADLEY

DHADLEY. FORGOT TO ASK YOU, ABOUT THE GAP OF THE SPARK PLUGS. DOES .030" IS'T O.K. OR .040" .<br /><br />THANKS,<br />DON

 

[Dhadley]

Re: DHADLEY

I figured that would come up. Up to the low to mid 7000 range either will work. As you start to venture higher you may find that a closer gap helps some. <br /><br />Just experiment with .030, .035 and .040. The carb calibration, timing and load will have a lot to do with what works best. Youre starting to get into the area where rejetting will come into play.<br /><br />Just do one thing at a time. Very important.