Did i just destroy my NEW (to me) motor?

[Robert Ellis]

Sorry ... didn't mean to repost all that. Here's the bit I added:

Prior to fitting the balancer, screw the big nut on a ways - that way, if the flywheel really 'pops' off (they sometimes do) - it wont go winging across the room - if you damage the flywheel ... time for a new motor.

I shouldn't say this too loud (many would disagree) but I'm not a fan of bashing anything on my motor with a hammer. I use a half inch drive impact gun (you know what garages commonly use to put wheels on and off) on the nut of the harmonic balancer. It's over in a split second and it's never failed me yet. Again, you can borrow one from the friend who lent you the balancer and the torque wrench (don't forget to borrow the appropriate impact socket too) lol

 

[Average_azn]

Thanks for the replies everyone! I am going to buy a flywheel puller and pull it off after work today, Pics and update will be coming! I cant believe how helpful yall are... I have a pretty good idea of how to use a flywheel puller, after watching this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OUhejoFWejQ. My final question before i go pulling this thing is, how do I loosen the bolt on the flywheel? I tried holding it still and using a socket wrench, but if its really torqued down to 200+ ft/lbs, I dont see myself being able to get it off. Is there a fool proof method to keep the darn flywheel from turning?

 

[F_R]

Torque on a 6hp is 40-45 ft/lbs

 

[Average_azn]

Torque on a 6hp is 40-45 ft/lbs

I was just trying to figure that out, There's only one number on the whole engine and according to bonz_d it corresponds to a carborator from 1978, so i would say the whole engine is a 1978. Area ll 6hp johnsons torqued the same regardless of year? Everyone keeps saying if i dont torque it right itll shear again.

 

[Robert Ellis]

The guy in the video contrived a strap to keep the flywheel from turning when loosening the bolt .... probably better than what I've been doing - 2X4 wedged between prop and housing - engine in gear. You know that impact gun I mentioned earlier - it works a treat on that nut too ... be very sure you have it in reverse!
That video clip you copied from the earlier post clearly shows the spark plugs wire connected just below the play button ... do not leave them on!

 

[Robert Ellis]

oh ... that video clip is different from the one Steve A W posted to you but he too leaves the plug wires on the plugs. Don't know how good an idea that monster gear puller is? - the jaws would be putting a lot of pressure on the flywheel teeth. Like I stated earlier, damage your flywheel and you've got yourself a parts motor.
Oh ... also, I think the video was contrived .... quite sure he repulled the flywheel (after putting in new coils points etc.) - I can pretty much guarantee that yours wont pull off as easy as that ... nor will your coils etc look like that.

 

[Rick.]

To hold the flywheel I eventually broke down and bought a strap wrench to hold the flywheel while pulling on the nut. Much better than anything else and my ribs appreciate it too. If your flywheel has extra holes you can hold bolts in them and span the bolts with a large screw driver to hold it from turning or you can bear hug it but get a strap wrench and you will be happy. Rick.

 

[F_R]

I was just trying to figure that out, There's only one number on the whole engine and according to bonz_d it corresponds to a carborator from 1978, so i would say the whole engine is a 1978. Area ll 6hp johnsons torqued the same regardless of year? Everyone keeps saying if i dont torque it right itll shear again.

I can't vouch for most recent years, but they have been 40-45 for at least 50 years. BTW, DO NOT use a puller that grabs the flywheel by the outer rim. Big danger of bending the flywheel. Use a puller that uses the 3 bolt holes near the center. You can make a strap wrench from an old belt and piece of 2 x 2 lumber for a handle.

http://s19.postimg.org/4bmnxplpv/Strap_Wrench.jpg

 

[Average_azn]

UPDATE!!!! Woodruff key is.... Undamaged?
http://imgur.com/a/TFOv3#sJ1V97G

Heres some pictures of the removal process and the key close up, there is a tiny amount of scratching on the key and there was a VERY small metal shaving in the key-slot, but What do you guys think? It looks undamaged to me, then again this is the first time i've ever seen a woodruff key!

If its not damaged, i have a feeling i overlooked something... but what? Maybe a bad float valve in the carb?

 

[Robert Ellis]

Nice going on the removal - fun eh! Good that it came off so easy - I've never had that experience. Are you glad that part is over lol.

ok, definetly an intact key. So .... where are we? good compression, good spark and the timings right. It's tempting to think gas but why wouldn't it fire with the starting fluid (which you now know you should never use)? In terms of the ignition, I'm used to points, condenser, coils so yours looks very different to me. Someone else can advise you re that part but ... you said you have very good spark (did you say 1/2" jump) so ....

I'll think about this overnight. It'd be funny if all you need is new plugs (or did you try that already?)

 

[tomhath]

What did you do to shut it off after the shift incident? Just press the kill button?

Did you twist the throttle real hard to Slow? Maybe the linkage is jammed or disconnected somewhere. Another possibility is that the plug wires got switched; the top cylinder is usually marked on the wire.

 

[tomhath]

Duplicate post removed

 

[Average_azn]

Nice going on the removal - fun eh! Good that it came off so easy - I've never had that experience. Are you glad that part is over lol.

ok, definetly an intact key. So .... where are we? good compression, good spark and the timings right. It's tempting to think gas but why wouldn't it fire with the starting fluid (which you now know you should never use)? In terms of the ignition, I'm used to points, condenser, coils so yours looks very different to me. Someone else can advise you re that part but ... you said you have very good spark (did you say 1/2" jump) so ....

I'll think about this overnight. It'd be funny if all you need is new plugs (or did you try that already?)

Yeah, new plugs, and at least a half inch spark on both. Removing it wasn't too bad haha and at least now i own the tool and a torque wrench.

 

[Average_azn]

What did you do to shut it off after the shift incident? Just press the kill button?

Did you twist the throttle real hard to Slow? Maybe the linkage is jammed or disconnected somewhere. Another possibility is that the plug wires got switched; the top cylinder is usually marked on the wire.

Woah, yeah! Thats exactly what i did, i slammed it to slow and it shut off... What made you ask that?

 

[Robert Ellis]

Duplicate post removed

Great, can I borrow them lol

 

[Robert Ellis]

Sorry, but I didn't understand your answer to tomhath's question: after shifting into reverse did the motor die on its own or did you hit the kill button?

 

[Rick.]

This is puzzling. I noticed in your pictures you had the yoke of the puller upside down. The flat surface should have been up. No matter, it worked but may have bent your bolts. My next suggestion would be to clean all the ignition parts on the plate and the mags on the flywheel. Are you using a spark gap tester with an adjustable gap? You should be. The spark should be blue/white and very snappy. Rick.

 

[Average_azn]

Thank you guys so much!!!!
IT WORKS NOW!!!!!
I honestly am not sure what fixed it but it is running again! Ill walk you through what i did.
1) Clean shaft and torque flywheel back to 45ft/lbs
2) Completely remove carb drain and let all fuel drain out, then with both plugs removed pull the starter gently a few times.
3) Put a screw driver into the pin of the fuel line and pump the bulb to flush out the line and make sure good fuel was coming out.
4) reinstall plugs and carb drain, prime the motor.
5) gentle pull and it started right up!
I dont know if maybe the flywheel just wasn't torqued properly or the carb was flooded or something, but it works now! It still needs a bit of a tuneup as it seems slow to react to the throttle position, but after what ive gone through that should be easy! Thank you so so much for all your help. You have no idea how great it was to get advice on what to do, I would have just given up if it werent for you amazing people on here!
Here's a short video of it running: http://youtu.be/8RrO5FlpMI0

 

[Average_azn]

This is puzzling. I noticed in your pictures you had the yoke of the puller upside down. The flat surface should have been up. No matter, it worked but may have bent your bolts. My next suggestion would be to clean all the ignition parts on the plate and the mags on the flywheel. Are you using a spark gap tester with an adjustable gap? You should be. The spark should be blue/white and very snappy. Rick.

Oh! Jesus i was wondering why the **** they didnt just make it flat...:facepalm: Im an idiot i guess

 

[Rick.]

Many of us have much to learn! LOL. We all cherish this site due to the number of people who share advice so openly. A great site because of the members who use it. Rick.