Differences between old vs new 3.0? Also 2.5 swapping to 3.0? A few other questions

ianbword

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 18, 2018
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So as you some of you guys know the 86 stingray I picked up which the PO thought was winterized wasnt. It has a 2.5 which I believe is the original motor. As soon as I got it fired up after dumping a few bucks into it I noticed a waterfall of fresh water coming from the side of the block behind the manifold, which im told is a common crack prone area for non winterized boats.

Anyways im considering doing an engine swap as the rest of the boat is in decent shape. Wondering about a few things...

What should I expect to pay roughly for a used 2.5 or 3.0 im in Connecticut if it matters?

My engine is a 86 I realize finding a 80's 3.0 might make life easy but there seems to be more "newer" 3.0s out there for sale. It looks like the ignition setup is different on newer 3.0s. How complicated is it to get a newer 3.0 running on a mid 80's 2.5 boat with the wiring? Are there any mechanical differences? I know my outdrive is a alpha 1 gen 1 so would that cause any issues?

If I find a motor should I be concerned with checking or replacing anything on the engine while its out? Trying to think ahead of extra parts or components I will need.

Any good I/O engine removal and install DIYs out there you guys can recommend?
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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the major change to the 2.5/3.0 was the crank change from 2-piece rear main to 1-piece in 1991

you should be able to find a running 3.0 for about $300 if its in a junk boat with rotten hull and a junk trailer. about $800 for the motor by itself and just under $3k for a brand new longblock.
 

ianbword

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 18, 2018
Messages
45
the major change to the 2.5/3.0 was the crank change from 2-piece rear main to 1-piece in 1991

you should be able to find a running 3.0 for about $300 if its in a junk boat with rotten hull and a junk trailer. about $800 for the motor by itself and just under $3k for a brand new longblock.


Thanks for the heads up..im seeing complete motors by themselves in my area for around $1800. Lots of boats with bad engines and decent hulls for $1000 and up. Ill keep looking, the trick for a rotten boat would be to find one that's been winterized also finding a place to store an extra boat.

Do you happen to know the process of getting the electronic ignition working with a points style harness?

Will the outdrive itself care what motor its going to? I dont know if the generation 1's will work with newer engines or what the difference is?

Thanks again
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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if your on a budget, look for a 1990 or older and use as much of the stuff that you have

drive only cares about the coupler and flywheel cover.

look at the wiring diagrams in the manual.

look around, this time of year people believe their junk is made of gold. you may have to drive a bit. no need to store an extra boat, pull the motor, scrap the rest.

I usually look on CL for trailer adds that state comes with free boat, or other project boat listings

here is an example

https://providence.craigslist.org/boa/d/1987-glastron-all-paper-work/6662036945.html
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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May 19, 2004
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27,468
Any 3 litre engine from 1982 to present, as a complete unit, will drop in and work. They even bolt up to the same holes. On the latter ones, say 2008 on, you will need to buy a harness adapter from mercury. To adapt the engine's 14 pin connector to your current 10 pin instrument harness. Not expensive.

All the wiring for the new ignition is contained within the engine loom. No changes required in the instrument harness.

The drive ratio for the old 2.5 and any 3 litre is the same for both, 1.98:1. No changes required there.

So, go out shopping. .. :D

Chris. .....
 

ianbword

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 18, 2018
Messages
45
Any 3 litre engine from 1982 to present, as a complete unit, will drop in and work. They even bolt up to the same holes. On the latter ones, say 2008 on, you will need to buy a harness adapter from mercury. To adapt the engine's 14 pin connector to your current 10 pin instrument harness. Not expensive.

All the wiring for the new ignition is contained within the engine loom. No changes required in the instrument harness.

The drive ratio for the old 2.5 and any 3 litre is the same for both, 1.98:1. No changes required there.

So, go out shopping. .. :D

Chris. .....

I think im gonna have to hold off till the spring next year when I have some extra cash to go shopping. In meantime at least I wont have to worry about winterizing my block haha. I will be coming back to this for info and thanks for the tidbits to get me started. Just looking around most of the 3.0s are newer with the newer style ignition. so thats good to hear.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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you can swap dizzys too

did you check out the one I linked to in your neck of the woods? best time to buy is fall when people just want it gone.
 

ianbword

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 18, 2018
Messages
45
you can swap dizzys too

did you check out the one I linked to in your neck of the woods? best time to buy is fall when people just want it gone.

I did actually thanks for that and ive seen a few here and there in Connecticut near me. Buttt I've had 3 weddings in the past 2 months to go to, the money goes faster than I make it. I'm hoping to grab something by the fall for a donor boat.
 
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