*ding*...You've got oil

[pantaloonz]

Thanks Bruce,

I estimate the alignment tool bumping the coupler at roughly 1/8" not more than 1/4" -- should the gimbal have to compensate that much?

I think I drew this out earlier but here's another drawing of what I get.


If it's normal for the gimbal to deal with this, I'll get it there.

I was primarily concerned my rear mounts shifted down and left..

 

[bruceb58]

Your gimbal bearing is designed to swivel. You need to get it straight first.

Do a google search on OMC Cobra rear engine mounts. You will see why it is not a concern.

 

[pantaloonz]

gotcha on the rear mounts.. *check*

Should I apply grease into the bearing via the nipple on the side before adjusting it's position?

 

[bruceb58]

You can grease it anytime you want. Doesn't matter. I would just do it after so you have less geasy mess to deal with when you are doing your alignment.

 

[pantaloonz]

Hi All

Sad to say I made no progress.

I have a mechanic two doors down, had him stop by just so I could have some strong hands and a mechanical mind set take a look

Together we can easily man handle the engine.

Summary: We moved the engine (via front mount adjustments) all the way from absolute high right. to absolute low left. We left the dowel in so we can see the imact and it was very significant to watch, it's pretty cool to see the dowel's positioning radically change.

The telling point: the alignment bar hits the coupler in the same spot at highest right and lowest left. and any point in between

I'm not sure how much the gimbal should swivel but my "bumps" to the bar were certainly hard enough to convince it to swivel though it moved only a fraction.

So,

1) I 'borqed' up the gimbal installation. Hard to swallow for me as it only goes in one way...and the 1" dowel shows us the alignment into the coupler through the bearing through a variety of motions. The lack of swivel of the bearing has me concerned I damaged it on the insert

2) I've got bigger problems. Complete movement of the front through a variety of directions with no change on the alignment bar.. that tells me the REAR needs to go up about 1/4 - 1/6" and right about 1/6" - I read the service manual, I understand that there should't be adjustments to the rear.. However there ARE mechanical components and hardware involved in the rear mounts, to me it's quite possible they've been compromised especially considering the boat came off the trailer on the highway some time back...

Unfortunately it's time to let a marina look at it. My pride hurts a lot.. and my wallet may hurt a little too. But I'm at the point now where I need the experts to tell me what exactly happened here.

I have no doubt that if my alignment bar made it into the coupler AT ALL, I'd be finished by now. but this circumstance has me stuck.

boooo.

-Pantz.

I'll keep posting if anyone cares at this point.. but it's going to be a while to get the marina to look it over

 

[pantaloonz]

Ok gang,

first off Bruce, I'll give you the "I told you so" -- I put some serious leverage on the gimbal and moved it.. considerably. The alignment bar went from high right, to low left.. so yeah.. still not engaging the coupler, but now I get how the gimbal "feels" when it moves, and it certainly is BEEFY. I have no idea how the heck I'm going to move it in "small" increments..

Called the marina, head shop tech said I'm going to fight with it for days because I've loosened and played with the front mounts.

They offered a $300.00 full alignment, fix the mounts, align the coupler/bearing and another 50 bucks to insert the drive.

Gut check.. I'll take opinions: pay the money ,get it right, and get it back by Thursday....

Or Fight on and maybe not have any progress .. maybe get lucky...

-Pantz

 

[bruceb58]

I would give it a another chance. Get the bearing aligned and then start working on getting the engine height right. Do you know where it approximately was when you started?

Once you get the bearing aligned and the alignment tool started in the coupler, you are then aligning the coupler to the gimbal bearing.

Now hopefully you forget the other advice of getting each of the front motor mounts at the same height from the stringers. That was totally BAD advice. One stringer can be higher than the other when they built the boat. It would be very rare that they would be identical.

 

[skippy2235]

Keep going, you have all winter, summer is over.
Spend that 300 on a heater, or something cool.
Just don't **** it away.

 

[pantaloonz]

the alignment bar.... is in the coupler....

Oh my heavens... it it most certainly still not a good fit.. but it is going in....

A littel too excited to think straight at the moment, I need to slow it down and get my mind right..

I still have front mounts that are NOT secured.. so this is what I have to think through..

My current crux is as follows:

A 1" dowel looks good left, right, up and down through the bearing. The gimbal is now "somewhat" right...

What's the proper flow of operations?

My thought is:

1). insert the tool, and set the bearing.. (but what if the front of the engine is so freaking out of whack? Should the mounts be totally secure when "setting the bearing") ?

2.) rotate the engine and continue the "setting"

3.) start reading grease marks.

4.) fix my horizontal adjustment first.

5.) fix the vertical next

6.) then make any further adjustments by that "feel" and grease marks?

-Pantz

 

[bruceb58]

There is no horizontal adjustment for the engine! Get that out of your head. That other poster totally led you astray! The rear engine mounts control horizontal and as you can see, they are fixed in place.

Once you get the alignment bar into the coupler, you have the gimbal bearing pointing in the correct direction. Now read the grease marks.

1) Once you have the engine height close enough to fully insert the tool without force, then you can start working on setting the proper alignment.
2) Take your time, getting it close enough to insert the tool the first time can sometimes be the hardest (most frustrating) part.
3) Coat the end section of the tool (the smallest diameter area) with a light coat of grease and then insert it fully into the coupler.
4) Without turning the tool, pull it straight out and look at the depth of the teeth marks in the grease.
5) If the teeth marks in the grease are deep on the top side and shallow on the bottom side of the tool then your motor is too high.
6) If the marks in the grease are deeper on the bottom than on the top then your motor is too low.
7) Adjust the engine height accordingly.
8) Keep checking the depth of the marks in the grease until they are equal in depth on top and bottom.
9) Sometimes as little as 1/8th of a turn on the adjusting nut can be the difference between being properly aligned, and just having it "close"
10) Lightly Grease the splines on the shaft (and on the coupler if you can) with Spline grease prior to assembly.

You don't rotate the engine until you read the grease marks and get the alignment perfect. The rotation of the engine just confirms that your coupler is uniform in all directions.

 

[pantaloonz]

Roger Bruce

The first read on the grease indicate very heavy on the bottom. Right at 6 o clock. So my adjustments will be upwards.

It's through my head...no more horizontal efforts.

At practice now let's see if I can post this video

 

[bruceb58]

So my adjustments will be upwards.

Which means downward on the front engine mount.

 

[pantaloonz]

Hehe

Don't go confusing me now..

"6) If the marks in the grease are deeper on the bottom than on the top then your motor is too low."

That's what I have so the front gotta go up right ?

Tomorrow morning, going back at it

 

[bruceb58]

Yes..I thought you meant grease was heavy on the bottom with no marks. Sounds like you are going to get this.

Proceed!

 

[pantaloonz]

Hi Again everyone,.

I took video but I didnt make it compressed enough. Anyway I had my son video my pretty grease marks all around the alignment bar.

The bar moves with thumb and forefinger in the coupler.

I will say it takes a tiny nudge to get actually engaged in the coupler, once in the witness marks are consistent, the bar moves very freely. I turned the engine 180 degrees and got the same results.

It took roughly an hour of 1/2" to 1/4" to 1/8" turns. Ultimately according to millimeters the left and right front mounts are close.. but not exact.

I have a buddy on the way to reinsert the outdrive..

*wowzer. what a day.

Jeez I nearly forgot.. ALL this started because of WATER in the OUTDRIVE..!!! hahahahaha

My local marina is mad at me because I bought myself an alignment bar...*smile*

-Pantz

 

[pantaloonz]

Not much time:

The drive is on, all sealed up. it went in without effort at all, slid right on hahahahahahah

did the rest of the components... now letting it sit a day or two

HUGE SHOUT to Bruce, OffD, and Skippy... Made it boys!!

-Pantz

 

[skippy2235]

start it on the muffs and see if it works, But it in gear and makes sure not weird sounds are there.
Make sure goes into FWD and REV on trailer.
Make sure it does not overheat, all the trims are correct. Make sure you did not miss something.

 

[bruceb58]

I would be carefully checking your gear oil after every use just in case you still have a gear leaking issue.

 

[pantaloonz]

Greets,

Yes I'll be running it on the muffs before trying to splash her down again (if at all).

I made sure to fill the gear oil from the middle plug. Made sure to fill to correct levels.

Acknowledged, I need to make sure of no odd noises, grinds, and be sure the engine still trims properly.

Also yes on the gear oil, I'll be watching for signs of residue in the water (if we make it out) and will check for water as well after some time.

Labor day weekend is supposed to be nice so hopefully the trailer/muff test will pass.

I went very slowly and double checked the service manual as I put the pieces back together.

I'll reveiw the whole thing again the next few nights, should be able to run it on the muffs friday night ish.

-Pantz

 

[skippy2235]

Where do you live?
Up here in the PNW, Labor Day weather is looking good also.